Hey guys, it has been about 4 years since I swapped my F23 for an H22a. I have a 99 CL with a 96 JDM H22a-P13 ECU. Up until a couple of months ago- the Car has ran fine for 4 years. Strong and fun with only the regular maintenance.

Now it will not start.

Here is the deal:
My wife was driving it down the road and she heard a pop and the motor cut off and would not start back up. I let it sit for a day and then it ran fine for another 2 days. Then she was driving it and the car just quit and hasn't started since. Just cranks. The speedometer, tach and all gauges were going haywire/bouncing all over when we tried to turn it over when it first quit and it never would start again.
I also had a fields unit wired into the conversion harness at the ECU that was just blinking/pulsing through out the speakers- So I removed it from the equation.
The original mechanic who did all of the work is not available anymore. So I come to the place that made my swap possible years ago for the experts advise.

Here is what I have done...

*Tried another P13 ECU - Same response- No spark.

*I thought it had to do with the fields unit, so I removed it from the equation and wired the conversion harness back as it initially was without it. Still no go. Same response.

*I pulled the end bolt off fuel rail- and fuel comes out-not sure if it is enough. What is the best way to see if I am getting enough fuel/pressure?

*I pulled out one spark plug and put it back in the boot of the spark plug cable and put metal to the plug-no spark. This is where I need some serious suggestion.
---I show voltage from harness to dizzy. I do not see spark from plug when touching metal/block. Bought new dizzy. Still same thing happens! No Spark!
Why would dizzy going bad cause the car to quit and the electrical to freak out in the dash? I thought for sure the dizzy was bad- but I tested with a new one today and I get no spark still! Wires/Plugs are not that old- but I have not tried replacing those.
Relays? I am really lacking knowledge on the distributor side.
Basically my dilemma:
I show voltage at dizzy- but No Spark. What else can I check?
I am trying to prevent myself from tracing wires. I don't know enough about electrical to go there and no one else wants to even start that project.

Can you guys help me with isolating the issue? I know I am all over the place- but I wanted to lay it all out there. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I read through the forums and could not find an issue quite like this one...

Thanks again in advance for any advice offered...

DRIVING ME NUTTS!!!!!!!!!!

 

If I hear a pop, first thing I'd check is timing belt. Have you check your t-belt and auto tensioner if you haven't done the H23 manual tensioner conv.?? It might've jumped. Check your timing belt and alignment marks on your timing.

 

Thanks nus_dogg. I did not do that fix. I was reading about it right now in the H22 swap guide. It was so long ago- I don't know why we didn't go through with that one...
I will pull the valve cover tomorrow. I assumed it was intact as the rotor button turns when the motor cranks.
Would that cause dizzy not to spark?
I will check the belt and marks- but exactly where are the timing marks? I know about timiing it with a timing light through the windoe in the block; but what marks will I find by the cam gears and how can I tell if the belt jumped a tooth?
Finally- how serious damage is done if it did jump?

Thanks for helping out a noobo.

 

No problem. Yes, I believe that can cause the motor not to create spark because when I didn't get spark on my old F22B1, everybody told me to double check my Timing(but was all good) and found out it was my ground on my IM that was loose by a tad bit.

To go about checking your Timing mark here it is:



If you remove your crank pulley and TDC the crankshaft so its lined up like the bottom picture shown on the pic and by doing that you will see if the two cam gear lines up with eachother shown on the pic. If they don't , then most likely, they've jumped a few tooth or more but if the belt is bad and ripped off, you will automatically see that there will be no belt or ripped and torn belt sitting there.

Also, check your Auto Tensioner too if its bad. I don't know how to go about that to see if its bad. All I know is that they tend to fail over time, so thats why Honda recommend changing them out everytime you do a t-belt service but some ppl just re-used them; some succeeded and some don't.

 

^^^ EDITED!

 

Where is our ignition module located? MY CL is basically a 97 accord. How bout the timing marks? I read about the autotensioner... seems like that may be it... Sounds like it could have seriously jacked the head... I hope to hell that ain't it...
Any other things to check?
Thanks again.. Will let you know what I find...

 

I believe is the ICM that you wanted to look for? Its located inside your Dizzy and it looks like a mini chip.

This is a prelude ICM(Ignitor):



EDIT:
The diagram here shows all the dizzy components and not sure if its a prelude or what but it seems to be a Honda Distributor though:

 

Let us know what you find.

 

IT RUNS!!
It was a ground wire!!!!! I found it Sunday and reran the wire... it had broke. Man! Finally!!!
Thanks for the help!


Now- the idle is all jacked up. Has been for awhile. I need to adjust the TPS and check some vacuum lines.

Can anyone tell me what the settings should be for an 96 JDM H22a. I have a 70mm Skunk2 Throttle body. Does that have any affect on the settings? If so.. what would they be?

I am looking for the stock voltage settings so I can get it there first of all to see if it helps.
Thanks again!!!