Technical questions on rebuild
My block and head are at the machine shop, finally.
The block had a scratch on one cylinder wall, and a nick on top.
Block was milled .004 and he wants to go over .020 on the cylinders.
He talks only in thousandths of an inch, so that was four thousandths and twenty thousandths. Those were the minimums needed.
The stock pistons are listed in an OS version at .25 over.
I assume thats a metric measurement, .25 mm?
.25 mm is very close to .010 or ten thouasandths.
Is there no other stock oversized piston?
I really want to fix this car FOR RESALE.
My hope was to return it to stock.
What do you do here? Every option seems compromised....
Now I need all new pistons, rings, and bearings.
Help!
The block had a scratch on one cylinder wall, and a nick on top.
Block was milled .004 and he wants to go over .020 on the cylinders.
He talks only in thousandths of an inch, so that was four thousandths and twenty thousandths. Those were the minimums needed.
The stock pistons are listed in an OS version at .25 over.
I assume thats a metric measurement, .25 mm?
.25 mm is very close to .010 or ten thouasandths.
Is there no other stock oversized piston?
I really want to fix this car FOR RESALE.
My hope was to return it to stock.
What do you do here? Every option seems compromised....
Now I need all new pistons, rings, and bearings.
Help!
wiseco has pistons in 81.00mm standard bore, 81.50mm (.020" over) and 82.00mm (.040" over) with varying compression ratios available.
when you overbore a cylinder, you will have to use an overbore piston and matching rings.
most machine shops are used to working on american muscle cars and deal in inches, so you have to help them with their math.
.5mm=.010"
when you rebuild a motor, you never re-use bearings (very rarely) as they are a cheap wear replacement item. you check the clearance with plastigage.
head bolts/studs typically should be replaced as they stretch when torqued.
remember your Compression ratio has changed now that the block has been milled, also, piston to valve clearance has been reduced by .004" which may not seem like alot, but it is a zero clearance engine, so you want to consider that when buying the new pistons and adjusting valve lash.
what did you expect to replace when you took your motor in to have it rebuilt?
why isnt your machine shop telling you any of this?
when you overbore a cylinder, you will have to use an overbore piston and matching rings.
most machine shops are used to working on american muscle cars and deal in inches, so you have to help them with their math.
.5mm=.010"
when you rebuild a motor, you never re-use bearings (very rarely) as they are a cheap wear replacement item. you check the clearance with plastigage.
head bolts/studs typically should be replaced as they stretch when torqued.
remember your Compression ratio has changed now that the block has been milled, also, piston to valve clearance has been reduced by .004" which may not seem like alot, but it is a zero clearance engine, so you want to consider that when buying the new pistons and adjusting valve lash.
what did you expect to replace when you took your motor in to have it rebuilt?
why isnt your machine shop telling you any of this?
I was hoping the scratch was not so deep.
Stock pistons would have been my first choice, because I have them.
Stock oversized would have been my second choice, but they are not "over" enough.
Sure, I could just pick some pistons and thrown em in there, but certainly that will affect the value of the vehicle. I knew going in that all bearings and rings were being replaced, I did not want to have to buy new pistons too, but oh well.
If you were buying an R that was all stock except the pistons, how would that change the value in your mind? Is there some piston brand (CP?) that is going to be universally accepted as good enough?
Stock pistons would have been my first choice, because I have them.
Stock oversized would have been my second choice, but they are not "over" enough.
Sure, I could just pick some pistons and thrown em in there, but certainly that will affect the value of the vehicle. I knew going in that all bearings and rings were being replaced, I did not want to have to buy new pistons too, but oh well.
If you were buying an R that was all stock except the pistons, how would that change the value in your mind? Is there some piston brand (CP?) that is going to be universally accepted as good enough?
I dont know that a rebuild does anything to the value of the car if it is the original motor. WiseCo is a very reputable company as far as pistons go.
You can take a look in the r's for sale section and see a few cars with rebuilt motors. if you do it right nd use good product, I dont think you will take too much of a hit. The most important factor is good product was used and a reputable shop did the work.
What happened to the motor to cause the rebuild?
I am a little confused about the nick in the top deck, sounds like that happened when the head was pulled off, it sure as hell didnt happen when the motor was built by Honda.
You can take a look in the r's for sale section and see a few cars with rebuilt motors. if you do it right nd use good product, I dont think you will take too much of a hit. The most important factor is good product was used and a reputable shop did the work.
What happened to the motor to cause the rebuild?
I am a little confused about the nick in the top deck, sounds like that happened when the head was pulled off, it sure as hell didnt happen when the motor was built by Honda.
I purchased the car in an unknown state, supposedly hydrolocked.
I pulled the engine out and was going to do the rebuild then, but things happen, and everything just ended up sitting for about 1.5 years.
The block and head were moved around a few times, and eventually something fell on the block, causing the scratch.
Its being rebuilt because I did not know what was wrong with it at the time, and it needed to be torn down to figure it out. Some bearings were REALLY burned up, I suspect it might have been an oil-pump failure and not hydrolock.
Wiseco would be fine except they are forged and have floating wrist pins....I wanted to keep using the stock rods. Same problem with CP.
Not to mention cost, and besides I really do not need forged pistons.
I *wish* I could just get 81.5 mm stock pistons ...
Looks like the RS machines pistons are cast, and pretty close to stock ITR pistons.
I pulled the engine out and was going to do the rebuild then, but things happen, and everything just ended up sitting for about 1.5 years.
The block and head were moved around a few times, and eventually something fell on the block, causing the scratch.
Its being rebuilt because I did not know what was wrong with it at the time, and it needed to be torn down to figure it out. Some bearings were REALLY burned up, I suspect it might have been an oil-pump failure and not hydrolock.
Wiseco would be fine except they are forged and have floating wrist pins....I wanted to keep using the stock rods. Same problem with CP.
Not to mention cost, and besides I really do not need forged pistons.
I *wish* I could just get 81.5 mm stock pistons ...
Looks like the RS machines pistons are cast, and pretty close to stock ITR pistons.
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