hey i got a jdm b16a in my crx when i start reving above 4 grand it starts buring oil nd will continue until the rpms drop below that nd at idle its fine just wondering if anyone had had this problem

compression is good on all 4 cylinders it just started doing this today

thanks

 

piston rings? /valve seal maybe?

 

leakdown test

 

i agree. then come back and tell us what you found out.

 

leakdown will not explain oil burning issues...taken from a thread only a few days old..."Why does 99% of HT think that a compression or leakdown test will tell you ANYTHING about your oil control rings? The job of the compression rings is to do just that, to seal compression. Although they scrape a small amount of oil from the cylinder walls, that is not their purpose. The oil control rings job is to scrape oil off the cylinder walls to prevent it from being burned. They DO NOT seal ANY compression. So a compression test is going to tell you nothing about them. You could remove your oil control rings and your compression would be higher than with them because the extra oil in the cylinder will help seal the compression rings. This is similar to doing a wet compression test by adding oil to the cylinder. The same goes for a leakdown test. A leakdown test tests the compression rings only. It tells you nothing about the oil control rings"...

 

taken from same thread and from same guy, "scott tucker"..."There is pretty much only two ways an engine will burn oil. Either from oil getting past the oil control rings or oil getting past the INTAKE valve guides. You can determine which is causing the oil consumption in most cases by doing a simple test. Have someone drive behind you. While doing about 5 mph put it in second or third gear and floor it up to 5 - 6000 rpm. If it blows blue smoke during this period, it has a problem with the oil control rings. The excessive oil on the cylinder walls is actually pumped past the compression rings and is burned in the cylinder. The reason this would not be oil leaking past the valve guides is because when you are at WOT the intake manifold pressure is the same as atmospheric and the oil can not get 'sucked' past the valve guides. Next, hold it in second or third gear and after getting to 5 - 6000 let your foot completely off the gas until it drops down to 1 - 2000 rpm. When the throttle snaps shut the pressure in the intake manifold drops tremendously (more vacuum). If oil is leaking past the valve guides the atmospheric pressure inside the valve cover will force oil past the guides to the low pressure in the intake manifold and into the cylinder where it is burns.
HOWEVER, if you have a catalytic convertor and the oil consumption is moderate, the cat may mask the blue smoke and you will see no smoke. I think this is what has caused so much confusion. In the old days before cats, that test was such common knowledge and so accurate it kind of baffles me that young techs do not know that. I think the OP's car is burning enough oil to where he should be able to see something.
If you suspect that oil is getting past your valve guides remember that there are other things that it can be beside the seals. If your valve guide clearance is excessive, putting new seals on is only going to be a temporary fix at best because the slop in the guides will wipe out the new seals in a short time."

 

 

A leakdown test won't tell you if your oil rings are sh*t...

 

Were my posts too long to read? i cant understand why a leakdown test was recommended again...but to help those that dont have time on their side, ill break it down step by step.
-To check if your oil control rings are bad, start out driving 5mph.
1.Shift to 2nd or 3rd
2.Go WOT to 5-6k rpm.
3.Blue smoke=bad o.c rings.
-To check if you have bad valve guides
1.Start accelerating up to 5-6k rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear
2.Stay in whatever gear you chose and allow rpm's to drop to 1-2k rpm.
3.Blue smoke= oil passing through valve guides.
-please note a cat. converter may hide blue smoke if the oil consumption is minimal.

 

Thanks for summarizing! LOL

 

ha, your welcome thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

 

Honestly that was probably the most useful posts I have seen on here in awhile. The oil burning issue is very common and this clarifys things for everyone. It also explains why and how the oil is getting past the valve guides,seals or oil control rings. Great post.

 

thanks ill try everything and get back to i plan on rebuilding it over the winter just needed to pass the e test........ which it did