Swapped in ITR head now car doesnt want to start
I just swapped in a ITR head on my friends b16a motor. I put in new head gasket, and new new ITR water pump for him. Timing was set at TDC, and had my trusty haynes manual, just in case i forgot something. Went and started up the car and it did not start, i tried a few more times and at times it would start for a good 5 second and die. It is getting fuel and spark, and compression is good across the board. When it did start i would have to give it gas, but it sounds like it barely wanted to stay on. Any suggestions or opinion that might help me solve this mystery would be appreciated. Thanks
no cel
Skunk2 IM with bdl 70mm TB
All grounds has been checked and tighten down
How do i do that? I have never did a valve adjustment before.
Skunk2 IM with bdl 70mm TB
All grounds has been checked and tighten down
How do i do that? I have never did a valve adjustment before.
WHOA! Never, NEVER install cams without doing a valve adjustment. You can burn exhaust valves in no time! Luckily you didn't get it running. Look up the procedure either online or in your trusty haynes manual and do that first! Then let's see what happens.
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i've slapped on itr cams on my gsr head with no valve adjustment and it started up fine..been running for a year revving to 8500rpm with stock gsr valvetrain...no issue...but one question for OP why do you need a 70mm tb for that setup?..
I don't see why it needs a valve adjusment, the valve train and cams are all stock. Update I re did the timing, cuz I thought I might have made a mistake on that, but same symptoms and problems. Bump I need to find out what's the cause and need a solution. As for the 70mm, it just happen to come with the itr head and why not put it on?
Last edited by ek-g6; Jul 14, 2009 at 09:57 PM. Reason: just because
You need to adjust valves b/c it doesn't take much, I'm talking .05 mm to be out of spec. If the valve lash is too loose, you just won't have full valve lift along with noisy valve train. If the valve lash is too tight, particularly on the exhaust side, the valve will not close completely and dissapate heat. If this happens, the valve will over heat and basically melt into a slightly different shape and will never seat and seal the cylinder completely. This is a very basic procedure and shouldn't be over looked.
BUT on to your TB: does it have a FITV? Are you OBD1?
BUT on to your TB: does it have a FITV? Are you OBD1?
try a different ecu...or check your ignition and about the 70mm tb its to big for your setup..trust me youll need to tune it or else you'll run like ****
thanks for all the help guys, but problem has been fixed! The dizzy was on 180 degrees backward. Turned it and everything turned on, no valve noise or anything unusual. It runs like clockwork. As for the 70mm tb, it's not making the car run bad at all! If anything seemed like it gained a bit after 4k rpms. It will be tuned but for now it's much faster and was able to take out a stock Gsr no problem.
I recommend getting your valves adjusted. I have a dude borrow my ctr cams in his b16(10.8/1) with stock valvetrain and running a stock p30 not getting a tune,(like a dumbass), now his motor makes a loud noise coming from the head. Not sure what caused the problem or is but it sounds pretty bad. You rather do it the right way or pay for it at the end.
Pretty sure your suppose to adjust your valves every 20,000 ne way...
Do you guys just tighten the nuts down til they stop or what? lol.
WOW... always do valve adjustment ALWAYS.
Do you guys just tighten the nuts down til they stop or what? lol.
WOW... always do valve adjustment ALWAYS.
I recommend getting your valves adjusted. I have a dude borrow my ctr cams in his b16(10.8/1) with stock valvetrain and running a stock p30 not getting a tune,(like a dumbass), now his motor makes a loud noise coming from the head. Not sure what caused the problem or is but it sounds pretty bad. You rather do it the right way or pay for it at the end.
I understand about getting the valve adjusted and such, but again this isnt my car, and the only thing i could do is recommend to him. If we were to tighten down the nuts all the way, im sure something bound to blow...lol thanks for all the input.
double check if your crank pulley key is still there...mine shattered once and i didnt know..timing was off so i re did it but it wouldnt start..after checking everything for nearly a week i decided to take off my cam gears jsut to check something different and accidently dropped the cam gear key down my timing belt cover..so i had to take my crank pulley off and once i did i found that my key was gone and everytime i was spinning the crank.my crank pulley was not turning. so i slapped on a new key and crank pulley it started right up...just a thought but hey **** happens so doesnt hurt to check
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