To what car could it be compared? Is it worth the money?

And how long will a 200whp B18C5 last (how many miles do you have on yours?),

'cause 200 whp is my goal but I dont want to rebuild it next year...

 

Hey, are you from Montreal too? I'm from Montreal as well. A 200whp B18C5 feels good. It's really hard to describe it, but it's a big improvement on 160-170whp. You feel the torque quite a bit more. I can't really say what it feels in comparison to, but it really makes a big difference.

IMHO, I think buiding a B20/VTEC from what you have is a better and more reliable way to get 200whp than to put bolton's to a B18C5. We've built a few B20/VTEC and they really impress. A 200whp B20/vtec will last a lot longer than a 200whp B18C5 if built properly.

 

What is this b20 vtec thing anyways, what engine is that...

 

sure i'm from Montreal. You work at auto sinmay? I've heard a bit about your shop but never had the chance to drop by.

a well built B20/VTEC would probably last longer but woulden't it be more expensive and complicated than putting bolt-ons and swapping cams on the B18C5?

I know that alot of people on this board have 200 whp setups and want to have alot of input before I start searching for parts and stuff, because if it's not worth the money I'll probably save up for another car (DC5 type-R...hehe I'm a dreamer) although I really love my R.


[Modified by Montreal R, 10:29 PM 8/22/2002]

 

CRV block with VTEC head (B16A or B18C).

 

you have miguel making 205whp from Jun cams and jun products for a jdm itr (stock bottom end 11:1)motor .

 

200 whp seems to me like a very elusive goal... especially for a street driving B18C5 motored car.

IMHO, I would be happy if I had ~180whp that require little regular maintenance. I would personally just do I/H/C/E + V-AFC + tuning + JDM/ATS FD and slap on some lightweight wheels and be happy. I'm no mechanic and trying for 200 whp is too much headache for me.

 

200-210 hp daily driven is no problem.......
just buy a jun crate motor!
or just buy a stage 3 head on top of jdm pistons using a jun ecu....
And yes it feels nice..
But then again currently I use a JR Supercharger that makes 235hp at wheels with a lot more torque and no worries for a little less money.

And no I AM NOT starting a NA vs Forced war. Just letting you know that 200 hp daily driven can be reliable in many forms for the B18C5

And if i had a choice on motors.....
1/4 - supercharger
hill cimb - supercharger
road corse - NA
Rally- supercharger
Daily driven solo- NA
Daily driven 3 passengers - Supercharger


[Modified by ppihctyper, 4:54 AM 8/23/2002]

 

I did consider supercharging my car but I heard a couple of nightmare stories about R's with JR SC...what have you upgraded to get that kind of power?

JR claims that the bolt on kit will give you 200 whp or more but someone told me that it produces something like 180 whp (and that's with some tuning done...)

 

Please dont put a JRSC on your R, they make crapy power and require massive tunning to even make mininal gains. Go NA or Turbo, both are fun to drive and will make good power if done right.

 

I wish my R had 200 whp.

 

my type R has over 200 hps..........@ the flywheel
and it feels pretty good already

 

11:1 C/R is too high for any kinda of fuckn F/I

 

i bet nothing like F/I 400rwhp *drool

 

I honestly do not know...........probably a hot apple pie?????

 

http://www.crvtec.com
(for those who want more info on crvtec)

some guy claims the crv block is prone to cracking or breaking if the compression is too high..i think his site was b20vtec.com ...not sure though...

but i guess it doesn't matter ..if you're gonna resleeve...

i'd rather resleeve a b18c5 block though.
i'm thinking with the 8 counterweights...the c5 crank is bad *** in high rpm...
if there are disadvantages to that...i'm not knowing of them...
the pistons have to be changed for crvtec..something about clearance issues
with a vtec head? and a vtec block already has the oil squirters and vtec line..
but people say with aftermarket forged pistons you won't need oil squirters?

 

I got 195 on the dyno with about 45 minutes of tuning and five or six pulls. A VAFC was the only other mod, stock intake and exhaust were still in place. Cost me $50 for the dyno time (I had a hook-up though).

Most of the horror stories are from people who either don't have one or expected it to just bolt on and make 60hp more. Almost nothing does that, every mod requires tuning to work correctly.

 

I work for Auto SinMay. I'm not actually onsite, but I'm the webmaster and make their purchasing decisions.

Swapping cams and other bolt-ons isn't exactly cheap. You also can't expect them to give you 190whp or more without expensive tuning time. Everything added up, the B20/vtec may even be cheaper since you already have a lot of the existing hardware already. Another option would be to resleeve any B18 to CRV or even higher specs. It would probably be more reliable than just a CRV block, but with reliability and quality, comes price.

Since oil squirters on aftermarket pistons isn't really necessary, (in fact a few JDM blocks didn't come with oil squirters) I think the cheapest route to get to 200whp reliably is really the simple B20/VTEC.

 

[QUOTEsome guy claims the crv block is prone to cracking or breaking if the compression is too high..i think his site was b20vtec.com ...not sure though...[/quote]If you're really going more than 12:1 compression, I would suggest resleeving. Personally, I wouldn't go more than 11:1 for reliability reasons. I'm not really out to make the most power possible. I just want reliable power. Track driving for 30 mins is a lot more strenuous on your engine parts than a 13 sec run on the drag strip. What works for some people may not work for me.

Resleeving is probably a good thing. You can do many things to enhance reliability, but again, it cost money. Like the old saying goes, "How fast u go is directly proportional to how much money you can put in".

We've done quite a bit of B20/VTEC's and they're pretty good bang-for-the-buck.

 

What's the powerband like on a B20/VTEC? Where does it make max power and redline at?

 

It depends how you tune it, and we haven't really dyno'ed any of them either. I would definately say the torque curve is considerably fatter than a 195whp B18C5. It seems to be happy at around 6500rpms. I think we would definately need to dyno test it to be sure where it makes the most power... Still relatively untuned, it feels very good already.

 

my b20vtec vs a b18c i built and tuned.
both have 12+ CR and toda C cams.

You can see that they are pretty close curve wise

 

Some guy in Japan with a new Type R is probably saying, "it feels stock to me".

 

I presume the b18c is the one that carries on futher. What's going to happen in a race would the lower power engine get back a little of it's power disadvantage by being able to keep in gear longer?

 

I doubt it, even though the B20 may start to fall off a tad bit earlier, it's still making a considerable amount more all the way to redline regardless.


[Modified by xjohnx, 8:58 AM 8/24/2002]