ok so i put on my transmission, its bolted up, it goes into 1st, turns rotors, won't go into 2nd, and won't go into reverse? whats up with this.. i bought the transmission from a guy, swears it works, out of 01 gsr.. is it possible i did something to my linkage or go something wrong where it not aligned correctly? i'm gonna try changing from the b&m short shifter i have back to the stock gsr shifter, because i notice it doesn't have the T at the bottom like the gsr shifter and allows side to side play on that end, but i had it for 2 years with my last two transmissions without shifting problems.. i know the guy put 2 washers in over the diff when he rebuilt the transmssion, which was retarded, but that shouldn't cause it to not shift right..

before i installed the transmission, while on the ground, i could use a screwdriver to shift through each gear and watch it turn when turning input shaft by hand, but now in the car, won't go but in 1st, any ideas greatly appreciated..

 

1. He did what to the diff?
2. Does it prevent you from going into gears with the engine running, or even without the engine running?

 

Question 1. Ok, when you open the transmission up and pull the outer housing off. You can see the open bearings on the differential. On the actual outer housing, you can see the pressed in cupped piece and flat washer behind it, this larger washer also has a hole in it so that the axle can pass through to the diff. There is supposed to be (1) of these washers, he added a second one. This causes the cupped piece to to sit into the outer housing as deep, and in result, when reassembled, it pushes down onto the open bearings tighter to the point you cannot turn the input shaft by hand and see the inside of the diff turn (when assembled and sitting on ground). You actually have to put a clutch disc on the input shaft and turn it like a steering wheel. He says it will last longer, while in the meantime everyone else says that will only cause heat build up and wear the bearing faster.

question 2. I cranked engine. put it into 1st gear and i can see the rotor on the right turning (open diff), but when i try to shift into 2nd gear i can't get it past where neutral is, it just won't even go to second gear. and i think i remember trying another gear and it bucked and kicked. Now before i installed the transmission, i could sit it on the ground, use a screwdriver to shift the shift rod. and i could turn the input shaft and see the differential change and different speeds while shifting. That led me to believe the transmission was ok and i went ahead and installed it, now the case seems to differ, which i will try putting my stock shifter back on and taking the B&M off, to see if that relieves the problem just for a peace of mind. although i've had that shifter one a few years now without a problem.

 

There are two washers that go there. One is a spacer; one is a shim. They are slightly different. So, are there actually three washers there total (2 spacers and 1 shim), or just two (1 spacer and 1 shim)? If there are three, I'm interested to see how the case actually closed up.

This should have sent out an alarm for you to not install it in the car. Bet you don't make this mistake again.

It most certainly has the potential to burn the bearings up.

Does it go into gear with the engine off?

 

ok, not sure if its 3, but i'm sure its more than its supposed to because i have 3 transmissions, and i pulled the outter housing off an old gsr transmission i have and noticed different tolerances and clearing.
yes i know i contemplated for 3 weeks and argued with the guy and he insisted it worked fine and i had to have the car done and so i figured i would try it

i think(been a few weeks and didn't try) it shifts the same when on and off, i will check again and try tommorow.

 

there are three shims, a thrust washer on each side, and a 79.5mm shim outside of the thrust washer on one side. the 79.5mm shim comes in various thicknesses, which it how the thrust clearance is adjusted. so it seems to be correct.

 

well obviously not correct.. if you can freely turn the input shaft without the outer casing on, then mount the outer casing and it not longer turns by hand.. they pressed in something too thick or an extra somewhere, and i know there is an extra because the guy told me he put 2 in..

 

i'm just gonna have to pull the tranny back off and have it fixed..

 

ok, finally got time to work on the integra, got it cranked, and tried to knock out some of your questions, it seems like it will go into all gears while not cranked, but once cranked, if i push in clutch and try to go into gear, soon as i almost get it into gear it bucks and kicks a little.. note: car is still not on ground, front is jacked up in air with no tires on it.. so no resistance..

 

And how is your clutch? Does the slave cylinder have full range of motion?

 

i'm glad you brought that up, because your are the third person to comment on the slave cylinder and clutch..
long story short..
in february i put a b16 tranny, ls 5th, with type r lsd on my car, while it was off, i put on a clutchmasters stage 3 kit, drove it fine for 2 months until i was racing and messed up 5th.., so when i pulled it last month to put a gsr tranny i just bought on it, i removed the transmission but not once have i touched the clutch assembly..
so i presumed it was still good.. so it should be still fine.. no one has touched it.. yesterday i pulled the clutch slave cylinder.. when i put it on back in february when replacing tranny back then, i remember putting the extendable end of the slave cylinder into the boot to push into the cupped end of the fork and bolting it up, no problem
when i removed it yesterday and went to put it back on, once all the way in i had to force it another half an inch two line the 2 holes up, as if the slave cylinder was pushing out as it was...
i don't know if thats its relaxed state or not.. so what i did was got a stick and pushed it on my clutch and braced it against the seat and walked around the front of the car to make sure it was pushing, and it was, but maybe not as far as its supposed to, not sure.. and EVERYONE and there mamma has told me that my pressure plate is not being pushed far enough and thats probably my problem..

 

so.. that being said, is there a measurement or way to acknowledge that it is functioning properly?

 

Clutch not being able to disengage fully will most certainly cause problems. The pressure plate is most likely fine and seated, but it never hurts to double check after a while. If you end up pulling the trans, definitely check it out.

The slave cylinder will push the fork somewhere around an inch to an inch and a half typically. Not scientific on my behalf, I know.

 

got my roommate to push it and it pushes it about an inch, when the fork sticks out the housing it sits or rests about dead center and pushes it about an inch or so. yea i just hate pulling the damn transmission again, i guess tommorow night while its cooler outside i will do it, and check that stuff and bring that tranny to a shop so they can check it.. it really sucks cause i bought it off the for sale forums from a guy in florida for 670 and he admits to adding stuff in it that shouldn't be.. so realistically i'm gonna probably have invested 1200 into this tranny once its all said and done.. sucks..