Ok so I replaced the Master Cylinder (bench bled) and replaced the brake booster. I put on a new proportioning valve also.

I bled the brakes with a pressure bleeder and let each brake bleed for over a minute. NO air at all in the system.

I put 30 psi of pressure on the brake system and after an hour no pressure is lost, so this leads me to believe I do not have any leaks.

I tired all these tests.

1. With Engine Off, Pump your brakes. The brakes should get harder and harder.

- The brakes to NOT get harder. They sink to the floor everytime.

2. Pump the brakes and then hold them. Turn the car on and the pedal should drop.

- The pedal does not change.

3. With the engine on, press the brakes and then turn the engine off.

- The pedal pops straight back up.

4. Check the valve. Can not blow into booster but can blow into engine. Valve installed and working correctly.


5. I checked each rubber brake line while the brakes were being pumped, I noticed zero movement or expanding.




All signs point to the brake booster but it is brand new. Did I get a faulty booster?

 

i never changed the brake booster but i think there is an adjustment you can do on the brake pedal. maybe its not adjusted right.

 

There should be an adjustment nut inbetween the brake booster and the brake pedal. that could be what is out a wack. I would also look at the proportioning valve (to check for a blockage). And if it was a new master cylinder was it bench bled?

 

You know i think you are right. It does feel like the pedal travels a few inches before it "HITS" anything. I got under there and I seen the star shaped nut but I fail to move it at all.

I will take my brakebooster off this weekend and adjust it and reply back with the results.