So it's been about 3 years since I've posted here, but I'm a little stumped on this one.

Setup:
91 CRX with OBD1 B16 tuned on Neptune P28 ECU

Background:
My car has been down almost 2 years (due to life mostly). Me and my Fiance recently purchased a home, so I've been trying to get the car done to be able to move out of our apt. The only real changes that I did was rear disc swap/suspension mods. I had changed up the turbo setup, but NOTHING with the wiring/motor. The car ran great before being down, and fired up first try just a couple days ago.

Issues:
The car was horribly dirty for being garaged over the past two years, so today I fired it up and drove it over to the local car wash (yet again no problems. I even hit boost). Then on my way back, I was litterly 100ft away from my garage when it just suddenly dies. I tried to restart it...nothing but turning over and shining a nice yellow engine in my face. I checked for codes, but the CEL stays solid (uh oh).

- For some reason it blew the #14 underdash fuse (alternator solenoid valve).
- The fuel pump doesn't kick on.
- If I replace the #14 fuse, the fuel pump will kick on, but it blew again
- When the fuel pump does kick on, it jumps to 60+psi

WTF?

For one, what the hell does the "alternator solenoid valve" circuit have anything to do with the damn fuel pump?

The only thing I can think of for the fuel pressure issue is that my return line is clogged.

Also does anyone make a COMPLETE engine harness from the engine to the ECU out of BRAND NEW wiring? I hate this half assed OBD1 adapter crap.

Thanks guys,
Bryson @ Boostwerks.com

 

Fuse # 14 controls the following:
Voltage Regulator (IG)
Emission control solenoid valves
PGFI main relay
PGFI-FI ECU (IG1)
Fuel Pump
ELD unit
EACV

Maybe try and get the alternator tested to see if the Voltage Regulator on it took a dumb on you. Make sure ALL the connections to it are nice and tight also.

Also, is your o2 sensor still wired up correctly no loose wires where it hooks up?

 

Yeah, honestly the only thing I can think of is that it was somehow related to washing the car (eventhough I didn't wash the motor or anything). It was running just fine until it then. I guess I'll go through those connectors to make sure it's not getting a short. O2 was wired up correctly the first time around, and hasn't been touched since.

The fuel pressure issue is still bugging me though. Maybe the line is clogged, which is causing the pump to pull more amps blowing the fuse?

 

When you put the new fuse in, does the fuel pump stay on and the fuse is good till you try and start the car? Or is it right when you turn your key to the on position?

 

Still over look the o2 sensor wires. It doesn't hurt anything just to double check it and eliminate that from the problem. Just make sure the wires are tight with no loose connections. I'm sure you know what to do lol.

 

With the key in #2 the pump stays on and primes the system, then it starts making a weird noise. The motor will fire up for 1-2 seconds and then the fuse will pop. I'll definetly look over all the wiring.

Thanks man.

 

No problem. Try a couple of things. Unplug the plug thats on the back of your alternator BEFORE you start the car. Start the car with that unplugged. See if it blows the fuse. (your going to need quite a few fuses to diagnose this ) if it blows, put a new fuse in and unplug the negative battery cable and try and start it. If it starts and runs, Your alternator is more than likely assed out on jewww.

 

Do you think it could be the main relay? I'll try the alternator plug tomorrow. I hate hate hate electrical problems.

 

Eh, I dont think it could be the main relay to be honest. If it was, not a damn thing would work - lights, interior lights, etc etc you get the picture. Electrical is beach but someone has to be an expert at it lol. I'm 18 and i'm no expert at by no means but I do know something or two about it hah.

If you have aim it might be a little easier to talk and get this settle out. PM me with your SN if you have it or MSN. I dont care which.

 

Updates:

From my basic knowledge of electrical systems, it seems the engine harness has a short somewhere. I disconnected the main harness plugs on the shock tower, and tested the IACV plug for any shorts. Both poles on the plug are grounding I also tested the O2 sensor plug and 3 of the 4 poles are grounding.

Looks like I'm going to end up towing the car to our new house. Once we get settled in, I'll probubly hit up Chase for a full harness

 

Damn bro, sorry to hear that. I was hoping it was going to be a simple fix but I guess not Are you going to buy a new harness from chasebays?

 

More than likely yes. Who knows. I wont have time to mess with it for a while unfortunetly.

 

i got sort of the same problem except mine blows while i just turn the key on

 

had this happen to me before and i went crazy.i was checking things that were further down the diagnosis chart before starting at step 1. start with the basics. check the main harness connector on either shock towers(the ones that connect the main harness to the engine harness) if these are loose or have poor connection that could cause this(in my case). then check the main relay.if you have a bad main relay all body electronics will still work just not the fuel injection system and pump.lastly a bad ecu or short in the engine harness which is more rare. its more common to see a chaffed harness (i.e. rubbing on a pulley or on the exh.)