Hey guys,
Had the dynoed today and it made 193.5bhp at the flywheel,, redlined at 8600 and vtec was at about 6600.
Has per the title I was expecting more, so i'm thinking of changing the intake manifold and going to either a 68mm or 70mm TB which should help. Any helpful comments, suggestions or opinions on how to get more from this setup would be much appreciated.
The spec is,

Engine Block

B18C4 block (100% completely stripped)
NPR race pistons (B16b design 0.50 oversized)
Pistons electro coated in dry lubricant coating
NPR total seal race series piston rings
ITR oem rods
ARP drag series rod bolts
ARP race series main bolts
Micro polished crank
Full bottom end pro seal kit
Tetra coated racing rod bearings
Tetra coated racing main bearings
Heavy duty thrust washers
Block honed
Block bored
Block decked
Block guard/sleeve saver installed
All threads cleaned and chased
All oil galleries shot through and cleaned
Block hot tanked
Rods and pistons balanced
Block blue printed
Piston ring end gaps set
Outer block painted black

Engine Head

P72 cylinder head
Skunk2 pro series valve springs
Skunk2 pro series titanium retainers
Skunk2 pro series cam gears
Skunk2 pro series stage 3 cams
370 injectors
MLS head gasket
Full race single piece forged steel valves (flat faced to match pistons)
Valves hand lapped and seated
Verton valve stem seals
Skunk style intake manifold with larger inlets to match P72 cylinder head
Head chamber balanced and ccd
Head chamber polished to remove detonation causing material
Head pressure tested
Head machined to remove all protruding surfaces that can heat up

Engine Other

lightweight pulleys
AEM short ram induction kit
JDM 4-2-1 manifold (integra 98 spec import type r)
Custom 2.5" exhaust system
Walbro uprated fuel pump 180 lph
Compression ratio 12.6:1


Engine management

JDM P30 ecu chipped with full data logging and crome software

 

Looks like you're way overcammed!
You have a mid level header...you need a tri-y from hytech, or similar, and you'll see much better results!
Get a velocity stack with a tuned length for your setup as well.

 

I think you may be off when you say your CR is 12.6:1. B18B pistons have a dome volume of -3.4. Even with flat faced valves you would probably have had to take almost .1" of the block and head. How did you calculate your CR? Do you know the volume of your combustion chambers and how much was taken when they decked the block and milled the head?

 

Jesus! Try some pro 1's and a better header and see what happens. Why did you choose that type of piston?

 

that might be a typo. there is no way he didnt have a catasptrohe in vtec with LS pistons and s2pro3 cams.

you need a header.

this reminds me of those "oh **** vtec wasnt engaging" threads

 

grab a properly sized header and some more conservative cams and then tune it up. i bet you'll get what you were expecting then.

 

Sorry my mistake, should be b16b for the pistons.

 

was this on a dyno dynamics?

 

Yes, one i've been using for years now.

 

Thanks for the advice guys, seems i need a new header. Someone mentioned a hytech header, are they any good? What others should i consider and should i get a 4-2-1 or a 4-1?

 

vteckidd has a great header that will help you out and keep ur pockets from bein empty

 

yea i just fitted vteckidd's narrow header to my motor .going for a retune soon seems to be more torquey already without tuning.

 

Will he ship to the UK?

 

yes i got it shipped to ireland no problem. fits perfect other than trimming the fan shroud.

 

actually, post your dynosheet. cant really say **** until we see that

 

Here you go..

 

A better header should be helpful, Hytech or SMSP. You've spent a lot of money on your block and head why skimp on the header. Call either of these guys to get you a properly sized header for you application.
What is the flow rate of you head?
To get the most out of your S2PRO3 cams I believe you would need around ~300cfm. Or change to PRO1's.
Also you can give a little more detail about the "Skunk style intake manifold".

 

The intake manifold is a skunk2 copy, probably not that great. which is why i'm going to change it for a genuine skunk2 intake.
Bought the motor with this already done, not ideal if i need to find anything out, but i do know who built the engine so that helps.

 

Pro 3's...? Why?

 

Were in when i bought the motor.

 

Pro1's would do great with this set up

 

OP, my experience with dyno dynamics is they indicate low. To me it looks like you maybe could set vtec a little lower like at 6k but I would bet money that thing will haul. I'm talking 12's on slicks.

 

I can't fault the engine, responsive as hell. Lowering the vtec is one of the things i'm going to do, along with other things that have been suggested. I had thought of lowering the vtec to 5800, but it may be a case of seeing what works best.