PLEASE HELP
Hello everyone new here !
I have a 1992 honda accord . I just replaced the head on it f22a6 . Everything went great . It ran for 30 to 40 minutes . Then it died just like somebody turned the key off . Then wouldnt start . Waited for about 30 minutes started right off ! It high idled at 1500 then went off high idle and died . Wouldnt start. Callled it a day . Now it starts right off and then kicks off high idle and dies. No notice or stumble . It has spark and gas . After it dies you can crank it over and it acts like it wants to run but it doesnt . Could this be the main switch that I have read about on here ? Also where is this switch located at ?
Thanks for the help !
Brad
I have a 1992 honda accord . I just replaced the head on it f22a6 . Everything went great . It ran for 30 to 40 minutes . Then it died just like somebody turned the key off . Then wouldnt start . Waited for about 30 minutes started right off ! It high idled at 1500 then went off high idle and died . Wouldnt start. Callled it a day . Now it starts right off and then kicks off high idle and dies. No notice or stumble . It has spark and gas . After it dies you can crank it over and it acts like it wants to run but it doesnt . Could this be the main switch that I have read about on here ? Also where is this switch located at ?
Thanks for the help !
Brad
NOW I MOVED IT 30 FEET YESTERDAY AND NOW IT WONT START AT ALL !!
I have no spark now ! Rotor turns, put another kown working coil on it still nothing !!
Please help !!!!
I have no spark now ! Rotor turns, put another kown working coil on it still nothing !!
Please help !!!!
Don't know if this is your problem. It might help from my personal experience. Try checking your main relay. Located high under the dash. I have a 92 Accord EX and I had the same problem. So frustrating! I tested the ignitor coil and it ohmed bad (replaced it). All other starting components were fine. But when I started reading other forums about the main relay over and over again I decided to make the effort!! Was well worth it!! Click the URL at the bottom of my reply it'll walk you through all the steps! Also, I took a large magnifying glass and you could see the cracks at the solder joints! Just look REALLY close at each joint and all around it as it is hard to see with the naked eye! I almost missed a cracked joint. Have had zero problems since the fix! Hope it works out for you!!http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelaydefine.php
Ok update ! By the way thanks for that link on the main relay !!
I started by testing the module on the distributor again . I belief it to be ok .Only one question the one wire test voltage at .11 volts is this normal ? it was the light green wire . The black and yellow wire was 12.45 and the tach wire blue was 12.40 volts . Battery volts was 12.55 . Tested at battery terminals. So I put the distributor back together and tried to start cranked but woouldnt start ! Jumped the service connector and came up with code 5 manifold absolute pressure . Guys I not to smart where should I go from here ??
Thanks , Brad
I started by testing the module on the distributor again . I belief it to be ok .Only one question the one wire test voltage at .11 volts is this normal ? it was the light green wire . The black and yellow wire was 12.45 and the tach wire blue was 12.40 volts . Battery volts was 12.55 . Tested at battery terminals. So I put the distributor back together and tried to start cranked but woouldnt start ! Jumped the service connector and came up with code 5 manifold absolute pressure . Guys I not to smart where should I go from here ??
Thanks , Brad
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If the coil tested good and the distributor is seeing 12v try replacing the ignitor. In the trouble shooting guide it states that if everything else tests OK the ignitor could be at fault. Even if it passes the voltage test. That is how I found out my ignitor was toast. There are no CEL codes for a burnt ignotor. Sounds fishy but it's true. Ignitor inside the distributor not working = no fuel & no spark.
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