ok i was wondering which one would be better planing to swap it in a em1 si.i got a 2k budget.i can get a get a 96 spec itr for 2k i got a b16 tranny to mate it with or should i but the 2k in the b20 vtec..got the block and head already..its a daily driver and i be drivn it alot n takn long trips..i want realibilty...but i do want to see close to 200 hp.

 

Why 200?

 

Why not ????

i would go with a well built b20/vtec .why ?? cause i just think the motors are amazing when built correctly and not half fast . Dont think youll have a problem with long drives.

 

thats my goal...

yea im kinda leaning toward the b20 because of the torque. i just dont knoe any reputable shop around here that i would trust.. but i wouldnt wouldnt mind having a type r becuse i knoe it will be reliable no problem with a good engine magment like hondata and a good tune, i/h/e i think i can see close to 180-190 hopefully lol...

 

.....cuz if you don't have 200, you have a small weiner.

 

B20VTEC all the way buddy it's going to take more than 2k to see 200+ from a 1.8L specially a 96 spec was rated with a lower hp...you can find a b20 short block for $250 plus whatever else you need like maybe $750 since you have an EM1 and all ur parts can swap onto the b20 block except for internals...so basically with 2k as a budget you can make a b20 pretty damn reliable and with more hp and torque than a ITR!

 

LOL@knoe, how do you misspell such a simple word?

also, the 96 ITR was NOT rated at a lower hp

 

A 98 spec ITR motor got some work done to the head and a better design in the exhaust manifold and air box and exhaust to achieve 210hp thats why theres a slight difference between the 96 spec ITR motors and the 98 spec ITR motor. But besides the point B20VTEC all the way I have one and compared to an ITR motor the difference is more than just night a day!

 

okay im most likely will be goin b20v..any set-up recommendations?
parts=what cams,pistons,rods,etc..i was look'n into the rs machin itr 84mm or 84.5 if its safe to run
already got the b16 head and the b20 long block just need some advice

 

I have a 96 spec type R swap mated with a B16 tranny. I installed a 98 spec header and an AEM hybrid intake. The motor is pretty much stock and traps 101mph @3000ft in a full weight CRX with AC.

I considered a B20 VTEC swap but I dont trust the local machine shops and there are "zero" tuners in my area which are all things to consider.

Do lots of research before you spend your money. Do it once, do it right.

 

Get a B20z block, GSR head, ITR springs and retainers, CTR cams, Skank2 manifold and TB, 12lb flywheel, 6 puck clutch, CTR single crank pulley, a good header and exhaust, walbro 255 fuel pump, and a good tune! You'll be .. I had that setup and it was real nice.. Just my .02 tho, if you wanna raise the compression you'll be even happier but dont go to high cause the sleeves arent as strong as 1.8 blocks..

 

again, not true. honda's published specs are 200 on both years. the 98+ has a couple ft/lb more torque and earlier in the rev range. all heads after late 96 were either hand finished or done by machine. the 4-1 header of the 98+ is a better piece which is where the torque curve comes from. you can see a direct factory comparison on youtube.com

as for the op, it depends on what you do with the motor. the b18c will live longer road racing stock vs stock on the bottom end. both b20v people i'm friends with have had rod bearing failures within one year of buying the motor. to be fair they rev the hell out of their cars. it's hard to suggest one way or the other without knowing what you plan to do with the engine or how you plan to assemble it.

personally, if you yearn for 2.0L of displacement i would look into a K swap

 

^^^^ Mr above is right check out 96 vs 98 itr from best motoring on youtube and youll see the hp ratings along with several other differences,the hp on both are stated 200hp in that video and note its a japanese video,the only difference is that the 98 has a better tq curve.

and to the OP, the itr motor has a girdle,an oil cooler,oil injectors,coated pistons, better balanced bottom end,stronger valve train,better sleeve design and specs,a better oil & water pump all to withstand abuse, do you really see it worth it to toss all that away over 10% more dissplacement? if so then go b20 but if your planning on DD and racing it on weekends,planning on keeping it for years, planning on being able to sell this ride one day then go itr!

not many will buy or pay as much for a b20vtec as they would for an itr so theres also resale value to factor in!

 

$2,000.00 budget equals not even remotely close to a K-swap

 

when it's all said and done you're 100% correct and the real number will likely be double that. however, double that may still be less 3-4 years out than multiple b20 project motors. again, it goes back to the OP being real with what he expects.

on the pure b20v versus itr play, v8 eater makes a GREAT point with the itr engine almost always pulling a higher resale than the b20v. factory b20 bottom ends with vtec heads are known as "time bombs" around here

 

im really lookn for a daily driver..n some times for the strip 'n catching races..would a type r, velocity stack or whale *****,hytech replica header,skunk 2 pro seriers intake manifold if it makes more than a type r intake manifold ,hondata ,and a good tune be a nice fun set up for a dd

 

My CRX runs as if the Type R engine came in it. I am running the factory ECU and I get about 36mpg hwy, 13 second 1/4 mile and better driveability than I had with the stock D16A6.

I feel I made the right choice but my goals were for the car to be streetable, have ac (which ruled out H22's), and run a 13 second 1/4.

 

I used to get up in ITR swapped eg hatches (gutted) all day in my B20v in a full interior EX eg coupe with the bolt ons I had one.. It was a good 13 second car, was my first motor that was able to get me my first EVO 9 MR win. I out launched him and kept pulling him and a "fully built" prelude SH.. If I were to ever get another B series again it would be another B20v, just make sure you put a new vtec oil pump on there and you should have problems with the bearings. I revved the **** outta mine and no problems ever, until I broke a retainer

 

Since it's gonna be a daily driver are you worried about smog? I thought that you can no longer bar a B20 in a compact vehicle in cali, whereas you can still bar a gsr in an EM1 SI.

 

another reason im really thinkn of goin the itr....i have read no swap can be bar'd no more is that true??

 

I read on here that cali recently passes some laws, this april or may banning the bar'ing of JDM and B20 swaps.

 

Best advice in thread. If you are not an experienced builder or can afford to pay one, you are wasting your time and money with the B20v.

 

THIS IS TRUE............IF THE B20V IS NOT BUILD RIGHT....YOU COULD RUN INTO PROBLEMS.........THAT I KNOW...........JERRYBUILT HAS DONE GREAT B20V MOTORS...AND I HAD NOT HEARD ANY BAD FEEDBACK ON HIS BUILDS...............U SHOULD TRY TO CHECK HIM OUT...........

 

^ you don't need to yell, we can hear you.

 

hahaha...thats good stuff