Just I quick question. I just finished my na build. Here is the setup: gsr block with 81.5mm itr pistons,itr head with skunk2 stage 2 tuner cams,skunk2 tuner cam gears,skunk2 springs and retainers,st flat head valves,skunk2 68mm tb,blox im,hytech replica header,plus the normal head work. I have the stock 99-00 si air box with spoon filter and direct flow pipe. I feel like this intake setup with choke my motor. What do you all feel will be the best short ram style itake? Any help would be nice! Thanks

 

custom Velocity stack Intake that is dyno tuned for your motor

 

 

would this be better than js racing?

 

x2

 

x3

 

Why not go ITB's like everyone else wants?....j/k

 

That intake is one of the worst aftermarket intakes you can install performance wise but hey, if you like the looks of it and believe it'll make power, feel free to waste your money.


There is no best short ram for you car. Use an AEM CAI or Comptech Icebox style setup or the best way is to have a custom built pipe for your car, length determined on the dyno with a flowstack.

 

Maybe I'm lacking common sense currently (end of the night, long day of work) however, could you explain how dyno tuning for a velocity stack is going to do any good when the car is STATIONARY on the dyno?

In theory:

Velocity stacks are used to help 'force' (if you will) air up the intake pipe, and through the plenum into the chamber. A fan capable of generating equivalent air speeds (to match RPM/MPH on the cluster) while on the dyno would be outrageously expensive. So within the theory behind this, while the car is actually MOVING at speeds, and not stationary on the dyno, more air will be forced into the intake, and through the motor thus creating an ever so slightly leaner A/F. Which, in some applications, could create knocking, detonation, etc. etc.

Again, I could be wrong.

 

A velocity stack just improves the coefficient of discharge of the entrance. They don't force air anywhere; pressure gradients do.

 

the Js whale ***** was not made to increase power on a dyno, it was made to DECREASE lap times (over the stock airbox), and it does on its target motor, the B18cR . mission accomplished.

just want to show off what i made for my car the other day just for ***** and giggles. its a dc2R airbox, no snorkle, 80mm aluminum pipe, 60degree bend, 2 samco couplings 80-85 and 80-70 on a 62mm TB. made a difference on the touge behind my house. the heel-toe rev match is 50 times easier. too bad its life will be shortlived.

 

would the Js racing be the best one, if someone had a b18c1 with hytech header, stock internals and wanted to decrease lap time?

 

ebay intake with a K&N Filter its proven to work and is cheap thats what i would get but i was a dumber ricer and got a password whale ***** and nice intake Conan want to cell me the box haha

 

Should of worded it different.

The velocity stack obviously wont force any air up the intake tube at all, however, the moving car with the velocity stack out the front will take in more air (from it being pushed into the intake tube, via the cars inertia) than a stationary car with a velocity stack out the front.

 

FYI all the velocity stack does is smooth the laminar air flow into the pipe allowing more air to enter and flow through the pipe than without it...stationary or moving, doesn't matter. Without it, there is more air turbulence and less flow. It's the LENGTH of the pipe that dictates where and how much extra power can be made which is why it needs to be determined on the dyno. You get a pipe and either add to it or remove length until you get the best overall curve.

 

do you recomend certain size pipe , like should i play around with 3 inch and 3.5 and what would be the lenght i would start at like from other ppls experince whats the shortest i should start from then move up from so i dont to make tons of cuts

 

[QUOTE=SR20S13;39175861] Conan want to cell me the box haha[/QUOTE

ill probably sell the whole thing when my K is done.