started tuning car and this seemed strange
i started tuning on my built motor today and was noticing that it was idleing in the number 5 and 6 rows of hondata i included a screen shot

the setup is a fresh rebuilt lsvtec
running e85
wiseco pistons 9.5ish to 1
eagle rods
supertech valves,springs and retainers
gsr cams w/stock cam gears
skunk 2 intake
and a go autoworks race turbo setup
the head has fresh valve seals and all the other seals in the motor were replaced when it was built also i might add it was like this before the turbo kit and i am using a p30 base map with the fuel trim changed for my i.d injectors... im also having a issue of the bov not opening when the throttle is released (using the unpainted 11lb spring iirc) but i am sorta thinking it has to do with the vacuum in idle issue... thanks ht

the setup is a fresh rebuilt lsvtec
running e85
wiseco pistons 9.5ish to 1
eagle rods
supertech valves,springs and retainers
gsr cams w/stock cam gears
skunk 2 intake
and a go autoworks race turbo setup
the head has fresh valve seals and all the other seals in the motor were replaced when it was built also i might add it was like this before the turbo kit and i am using a p30 base map with the fuel trim changed for my i.d injectors... im also having a issue of the bov not opening when the throttle is released (using the unpainted 11lb spring iirc) but i am sorta thinking it has to do with the vacuum in idle issue... thanks ht
Last edited by Chris Crane; Jul 7, 2009 at 02:02 PM.
yep, thats right. you are idleing around -20 inch of vac.
to set it up like your thinking it should be, click on options up top, then click settings, then go to your units tab. from there, in your "vacum unit base" spot, click on "atmospheric".
to set it up like your thinking it should be, click on options up top, then click settings, then go to your units tab. from there, in your "vacum unit base" spot, click on "atmospheric".
you need to adjust the map scaler somehow. the engine does idle in the -18 to -22" of vacuum normally. most engines do. you map scalers are out of wack.
im pretty sure you can adjust it so that it easier to tune/follow.
im pretty sure you can adjust it so that it easier to tune/follow.
also when i change it to that it shows 10.5" which i thought was kinda low for gsr cams
Yeah, you are idling in the correct portion of the map but your scalars look backward. The vertical scalar value in column 9 should be in column 1 and vice versa.
Mister Crane, A complete lack of vacuum at idle is alarming, but likely something mundane. Do you have a valve or three too tight, out of time, AFRs completely out of wack? Start with a compression test, you should be in the 170 psi range.
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Sounds super healthy. If the mechanical timing is off it can't be by much, and truthfully I doubt it's off at all.
What sort of wideband readings were you getting? Have you had a chance to sync your ignition timing?
What sort of wideband readings were you getting? Have you had a chance to sync your ignition timing?
14.ish to 1 but I'm trying to get a better base map but even 12 to 1 at idle was the same vac reading I used the Hondata option to lock timing and it was idleing around 800 when I set it not that it matters and I'm using a digital timing light from advanced auto
Okay, that's confusing so I went back and re-read:
If you make any positive pressure and then release the throttle, even if you have poor engin vacuum the differential between intake tract and intake manifold should release your BOV. This makes me go Hmmmm, sort of like Arsenio Hall only my fingers aren't as long and I'm kind of a rosy red complexion.
Is your MAP sensor tee'd off of the BOV pressure source? Because I think you have a leak in the signal lines that is messing up both, or at least that's what's most likely at this point and what i would check.
Is your MAP sensor tee'd off of the BOV pressure source? Because I think you have a leak in the signal lines that is messing up both, or at least that's what's most likely at this point and what i would check.
Okay, that's confusing so I went back and re-read:
If you make any positive pressure and then release the throttle, even if you have poor engin vacuum the differential between intake tract and intake manifold should release your BOV. This makes me go Hmmmm, sort of like Arsenio Hall only my fingers aren't as long and I'm kind of a rosy red complexion.
Is your MAP sensor tee'd off of the BOV pressure source? Because I think you have a leak in the signal lines that is messing up both, or at least that's what's most likely at this point and what i would check.
If you make any positive pressure and then release the throttle, even if you have poor engin vacuum the differential between intake tract and intake manifold should release your BOV. This makes me go Hmmmm, sort of like Arsenio Hall only my fingers aren't as long and I'm kind of a rosy red complexion.
Is your MAP sensor tee'd off of the BOV pressure source? Because I think you have a leak in the signal lines that is messing up both, or at least that's what's most likely at this point and what i would check.
Last edited by Chris Crane; Jul 7, 2009 at 02:04 PM.
problem solved, its amazing a 5 cent piece can keep a 5k+ dollar motor from running right

needless to say i feel like an idiot... getting around 21.7" of vacuum at idle now and the a/f ratios are easier to get right.. now if i can just figure out why my bov isn't opening??

needless to say i feel like an idiot... getting around 21.7" of vacuum at idle now and the a/f ratios are easier to get right.. now if i can just figure out why my bov isn't opening??
Good work. After seeing enough ridiculous stuff go wrong, if it were my car I'd be happy it was just a silly o-ring.
Keep us updated on how the car turns out, I know you've got some nasty cars in your family.
Keep us updated on how the car turns out, I know you've got some nasty cars in your family.
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