Rebuilt Alternator?
We've had a shop rebuild my alternator twice and i'm still having problems. The battery/electric warning light now will go ON when the car is idling. The light will then go right off after i step on the gas.
The rebuild guys said that the replaced the voltage regulator during the second 'rebuild.'
EDIT to add: Note that my mechanic already checked the belt tension, fuses, wires, grounding & measured the voltage.
I guess my real question is how could they have possibly failed to do a proper rebuild twice!
Anyone have any experience with this? And advice?
thanks
The rebuild guys said that the replaced the voltage regulator during the second 'rebuild.'
EDIT to add: Note that my mechanic already checked the belt tension, fuses, wires, grounding & measured the voltage.
I guess my real question is how could they have possibly failed to do a proper rebuild twice!
Anyone have any experience with this? And advice?
thanks
Last edited by skate1968; Jul 3, 2009 at 10:39 AM. Reason: to add/elaborate, to correct
It's really odd because the battery/warning light only goes ON at idle. And i can prevent the battery light from ever going ON simply by depressing the accelerator pedal slightly when idling.
Again, my real question is how could they have possibly failed to do a proper rebuild twice!
EDIT: i previously had written that on/off scenario backwards, sorry about that.
Again, my real question is how could they have possibly failed to do a proper rebuild twice!
EDIT: i previously had written that on/off scenario backwards, sorry about that.
Last edited by skate1968; Jul 3, 2009 at 10:40 AM. Reason: to add & correct
Is the power wire tight on the alternator? It's the wire with the ring connector. My battery light came on, and somehow the nut worked its way off the alt and the charging wire was just kind of sitting there.
Take it to Advance Auto or AutoZone and have them check it to make sure they properly rebuilt it.
Or if you want to check it yourself, get a volt meter and see if the power wire (one with the ring connector) is getting 13-14 volts to it.
Take it to Advance Auto or AutoZone and have them check it to make sure they properly rebuilt it.
Or if you want to check it yourself, get a volt meter and see if the power wire (one with the ring connector) is getting 13-14 volts to it.
First check to see if you have a good battery then
Open the main fuse box lid and disconnect the 3-P connector from the ELD unit (Electrical load something) with the ignition switch ON. there should be battery voltage between the blk/yel (+) and BLK (-) terminals. These colors are for a 1989 4 door.
if there is no voltage check for blown fuse No. 14 10amp
or an open blk/yel wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box
or poor ground G201
if there is battery voltage
check for voltage between the Grn/red and body ground with the ignition switch ON
there should be 5V.
If there is voltage
Connected the 3-P connector
check for voltage between GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON and turn on low beam headlights
there should be around 2V
if no replace fuse box the ELD does not sell separately
Open the main fuse box lid and disconnect the 3-P connector from the ELD unit (Electrical load something) with the ignition switch ON. there should be battery voltage between the blk/yel (+) and BLK (-) terminals. These colors are for a 1989 4 door.
if there is no voltage check for blown fuse No. 14 10amp
or an open blk/yel wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box
or poor ground G201
if there is battery voltage
check for voltage between the Grn/red and body ground with the ignition switch ON
there should be 5V.
If there is voltage
Connected the 3-P connector
check for voltage between GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON and turn on low beam headlights
there should be around 2V
if no replace fuse box the ELD does not sell separately
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