my problem started when my friend wanted the take his car to the track so he asked me to let him borrow my oem battery tie-down.(the track will not let u run without one). So i let him borrow it and when on my way. so i didnt drive the car untill the nexy day. i leave to work the next day and everything is fine. sundenly i hit the gas and the car goes no where, i also start to smell smoke. my first thought was the the battery postive terminal was touching a ground. sure enough thats exactly what was happing. the positive terminal was laying on the 17mm bolt on the fuel filter. i take it off and it drives perfect. then about 2-3 miles down my freaking alternator belt shatters into pieces. i drove the car to the local autoparts and buy a new belt. replaced the belt and everything is fine. i get off work and im headed to the local honda/nissian hangout the car starts to feel really really slow. i would punch it and the car sounds like it cant burn all the air comming in from the wide opedend butterfly. it was late so i figured that ill mess with it tomorrow. so the next day i start the car and i starts to mis and feels even slower then the day before. I'm very car literate but i couldnt figure this out so i drive the car missing and sputtering to a friends shop to start eliminating possible problems. it got so bad that the car didnt want to start anymore. and when it did the motor would jump and sputter bad. So i changed the:
coil-ignitor-wire-rotor-cap-plugs-alternator-fpr-fuel rail-injectors-ecu
and still the problem persits. something i did notice when after i changed all that stuff i put the battery charger on the battery i would clear alot and it will actually idel and rev up but still sputters and jumps but not as bad.

any help will be appriciated im lost and it bothering the crap out of me..

car is a
1995 integra
1997 gsr engine harness
obd2 motor
chipped ecu

 

Does it crank slow when it starts? You may have burned up the alt or batt. You changed everything else I thought of. You can take it to a auto part store and get a free alt and batt test.

 

any codes? check all you wiring to make sure nothing got burnt. is the ecu also obd2?

 

any melted wires in the harness???
plugs??
sensors??
alternator??

 

You changed all of that stuff, yet you did not even change the battery or at least try another battery? I would at least try another battery, especially since you say the problem lessens when a battery charger is installed.

 

check the battery then the alternator. if the alternator out it will cause the car to do sometime

 

there isnt not burnt wires or sensors, no ecu codes, no battery light. nothing.
im going to change the battery today to see if it persist

 

you might have killed a cell in the battery, itll still put out 12.45 volts, min. to test, but it wont provide the correct regulation of power.
take it up to autozone, theyll run a free bat. and alt. test.

 

another thing i noticed today is when i rev it up the cluster starts going crazy on the rpm guage. im changing the battery tomorrow. ill keep yall updated

 

.....up

 

it sounds ,more like an alternator problem to me. did the positive terminal fall off of the battery and hit the fuel filter, if this is the case then you have basically shorted the alternator directly to ground. the battery wouldn't be effected by this because it was disconnected at the time. also a bad battery will cause starting issues not running issues, the alternator supplys and regulates all necessary power while the car is running
you should check the charging and check all fuses before replacing anything

 

i changed the engine harness today and same thing. battery was changed and samething. im going to compression check it tomorrow

 

im starting to think that its the magnet boxes inside the dizzy..... if anyone has a obd2a ls dizzy lmk

 

this problem sounds way too familiar. in my case, it turned out that my ground cable on my battery was loose. it wasnt making contact with chassis ground.

 

Thats what i was thinking the cam or crank sensors "magnet boxes" in the distributor is going out.

 

yeah man u should just get a whole new dizzy and return those parts that did nothing for you

 

i changed the dizzy and nothing yet. i did a compression test and i got..
155-160-160-160...

i really dont know what the hell can be wrong with this ****. if i didnt have so much money in the car i would just sell it. this is making me want to get out of honda's

 

test your alternator and report back....sounds like it's either got:

a) fried alternator
b) bad ground in wiring harness somewhere
or
c) a short to ground somewhere..

i would look at either a or c to start with.. since how it happened sounds like either of them could have resulted...am i the only one who thinks that after what u described, a fpr and compression steps are unneccesary?

 

jump a tooth on your timing?

 

i already changed the alternator and engine harness for another one. does anyone know where i can get a diagram for the cabin harness. i want to look at the ground and 12v wires and double check them.

also today i put the mutimeter on the car and the battery gave of 12.3 with the car off and 14.4 with it on. which is normal

 

just to add when the car is ideling i jumps/misses and if i go from idel to W.O.T it chokes and doesnt burn the air thats going in.

 

ttt... need all the help i can get.. i already checked the timming and its tdc

 

ttt.

 

If you have access to a known good ECU, you may try swapping that out. The next thing would be the cabin harness, since you already replaced the engine harness. Good luck.