2nd injector stuck open paypal reward of $20 for a real solution
what can make cel for cel #16 fuel injectors come on?
precision 1000cc injectors(tested by precision), gsr motor in 94 civic
obd1 everything ,resistor box is wired
engine harness was pulled out and everything was perfect.
in dash harness? it looked fine.
pins in the ecu are a tad loose but are still in there
and the 2nd cyliner floods. sticks open
i switched injectors still the 2nd cylinder floods
i had a friend come over and plug in his laptop to the ostrich he put a basemap for turbo rather than the b20 all motor map that was in it. he got it to idle at 13. Real nice and easy. with stock map sensor The next day I went to start it...injector stuck open...
So its not the ecu. its now 2 p28s and now a p06 Its not the chips or ostrich we tried both Its not the injectors, they were tested and switched around We pulled the ostrich and put stock injectors in...still #2cylinder floods..
I pulled my engine harness out...no cuts no raw spots.
Stock map sensor is in.
This happened before and after the resistor box, so its not the wiring for that. and the resistor box wouldn’t be bad. so its not that. In car harness? I checked it and at the ecu plugs everthing is fine. ecu pins for 1 2 3 4 injectors are a tad loose but so are all the other pins(normal, kinda wiggly)
any answers please.
precision 1000cc injectors(tested by precision), gsr motor in 94 civic
obd1 everything ,resistor box is wired
engine harness was pulled out and everything was perfect.
in dash harness? it looked fine.
pins in the ecu are a tad loose but are still in there
and the 2nd cyliner floods. sticks open
i switched injectors still the 2nd cylinder floods
i had a friend come over and plug in his laptop to the ostrich he put a basemap for turbo rather than the b20 all motor map that was in it. he got it to idle at 13. Real nice and easy. with stock map sensor The next day I went to start it...injector stuck open...
So its not the ecu. its now 2 p28s and now a p06 Its not the chips or ostrich we tried both Its not the injectors, they were tested and switched around We pulled the ostrich and put stock injectors in...still #2cylinder floods..
I pulled my engine harness out...no cuts no raw spots.
Stock map sensor is in.
This happened before and after the resistor box, so its not the wiring for that. and the resistor box wouldn’t be bad. so its not that. In car harness? I checked it and at the ecu plugs everthing is fine. ecu pins for 1 2 3 4 injectors are a tad loose but so are all the other pins(normal, kinda wiggly)
any answers please.
Last edited by rick_rabies; Jun 29, 2009 at 07:16 AM.
is the pgmfi under the dash or in the fuse box under the hood?....nevermind ill search
unless you want to tell me. if it does work...i will definetly send you $20. iv fiddled with this for 2 months and it took a year to build. so frustrating. would that pgfmi make only one injector stick open? and is that like a fuse that could have blown?

unless you want to tell me. if it does work...i will definetly send you $20. iv fiddled with this for 2 months and it took a year to build. so frustrating. would that pgfmi make only one injector stick open? and is that like a fuse that could have blown?
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civic pgmfi relay...is that the main relay? or is that a dif relay? cuz the pump primes and turns over.
OK follow this flow chart and you WILL diagnose your problem
Here are the rules
A. you need power (+) and ground (-) to fire an injector
B. KOEO means key on engine off (so the battery light comes on but don't start the car)
Here is the flow chart
1. Turn the key off and unplug the #2 injector electrical connector
2. Check for + at the yellow/black wire * If Yes goto step 3. If No goto step 4
3. Unplug the main relay and see if you still have + on the #2 injector * If Yes then you have a shorted harness somewhere(good luck figuring it out). But this is only half your problem (See rule A) goto step 4 * If no then the main relay is internally shorted and needs to be replaced. But this only solves half the problem (See rule A) goto step 4.
4. Turn KOEO and check for - at the red wire on the #2 injector * If Yes goto 5 * If No goto 7
5. Unplug the ecu connectors and check for - at the red wire on the #2 injector * If yes you have a shorted harness somewhere (good luck figuring it out). * If no goto step #6
6. Assuming you figured out how the + was getting to the injector and you fixed it now its time to replace the ecu. After replacing the ecu if the problem is gone you are done (congratulations) if not goto repeat step 4
7. with the electrical connector unplugged let the injector sit * If it floods then you have a faulty injector * If not the injector is not faulty or may have an intermittent problem. Replace the injector and repeat step 7. If this does not solve your problem go to step #8
8. If you are this far down the list you are really screwed. I would swap the injector with another one and see if the problem follows it (swap #2 and #3 injectors). You either have an intermittent problem with the injector or the wiring or both. Remember rule A. If you swap the injector and the problem follows it then replace the injector. If you swap the injector and the problem stays with the #2 cylinder then you have some kind of wiring problem that is going to make you crazy.
Good luck
Here are the rules
A. you need power (+) and ground (-) to fire an injector
B. KOEO means key on engine off (so the battery light comes on but don't start the car)
Here is the flow chart
1. Turn the key off and unplug the #2 injector electrical connector
2. Check for + at the yellow/black wire * If Yes goto step 3. If No goto step 4
3. Unplug the main relay and see if you still have + on the #2 injector * If Yes then you have a shorted harness somewhere(good luck figuring it out). But this is only half your problem (See rule A) goto step 4 * If no then the main relay is internally shorted and needs to be replaced. But this only solves half the problem (See rule A) goto step 4.
4. Turn KOEO and check for - at the red wire on the #2 injector * If Yes goto 5 * If No goto 7
5. Unplug the ecu connectors and check for - at the red wire on the #2 injector * If yes you have a shorted harness somewhere (good luck figuring it out). * If no goto step #6
6. Assuming you figured out how the + was getting to the injector and you fixed it now its time to replace the ecu. After replacing the ecu if the problem is gone you are done (congratulations) if not goto repeat step 4
7. with the electrical connector unplugged let the injector sit * If it floods then you have a faulty injector * If not the injector is not faulty or may have an intermittent problem. Replace the injector and repeat step 7. If this does not solve your problem go to step #8
8. If you are this far down the list you are really screwed. I would swap the injector with another one and see if the problem follows it (swap #2 and #3 injectors). You either have an intermittent problem with the injector or the wiring or both. Remember rule A. If you swap the injector and the problem follows it then replace the injector. If you swap the injector and the problem stays with the #2 cylinder then you have some kind of wiring problem that is going to make you crazy.
Good luck
if i cant figure it out can i tow it to St. Charles and have it fixed and tuned? i know it wont be cheap but its my last resort.
Even if the main relay is bad... that will not cause the injector to flood unless the ground to the injector (which is supposed to come from the ecu) is shorted constantly.
Did you follow my flow chart that I spent so much time making you??
Remember rule A
Did you follow my flow chart that I spent so much time making you??
Remember rule A
true. if the main relay's bad, 2nd injector should not be stuck open. from what it sounds like, he's had enough. 2 months on the same problem will do that to you.
Did you swap injector clips? Did you switch the wiring on the injector clip at #2? Ohm out the #2 injector to groung?
Use an injector noid light or whatever it is called on the injector clip number 2.
It should pulse and not stay constant. If it doesn't pulse then you have a grounding issue with either the ecu or a wire from the injector to the ECU is grounded out. That is the ONLY way that the injector would stay stuck open even after swaping to a known good injector.
A noid light looks like this.

And a little reading on how to use one.
This is where I would start. I use mine all the time to diagnose injector wiring.
Injector Noid Light
It should pulse and not stay constant. If it doesn't pulse then you have a grounding issue with either the ecu or a wire from the injector to the ECU is grounded out. That is the ONLY way that the injector would stay stuck open even after swaping to a known good injector.
A noid light looks like this.

And a little reading on how to use one.
This is where I would start. I use mine all the time to diagnose injector wiring.
Injector Noid Light
i found the answer i think. i stripedd the engine harness to the wires from the stock loom and taping. And I found 1 of the deadend plug wires just chilling in the harness, cut. I wonder how it ran before though very weird. The weirder thing is after slicing open all the loom and taping there was no other end to the wire...ghost wire. So I will get a new harness Thursday and try that. thank you all for now.
i found the answer i think. i stripedd the engine harness to the wires from the stock loom and taping. And I found 1 of the deadend plug wires just chilling in the harness, cut. I wonder how it ran before though very weird. The weirder thing is after slicing open all the loom and taping there was no other end to the wire...ghost wire. So I will get a new harness Thursday and try that. thank you all for now.


