This is the first turbo exhaust manifold i have ever made, it's for my mitsubishi evo... I have both a GT30 and GT35 with TiAl exhaust housings, so I set the manifold up so that i can swap between them with no issues... I used .065 321 stainless tubing, all welds are backpurged... the runners are within 1/8" of each other...

still have to make the wastegate pieces and downpipe...

I've been making a lot of other parts for this car, if there is interest i can post pictures of them...

-franz

 

Very nice, I say post up the other stuff too. Its always nice to see what people are doing with their time and talent.

 

Nice. How much was that collector?

 

the headers look sickk

 

call burns stainless...

did not come with v-band flange...

-f

 

more pictures...

charge pipes



shift cable extension and support


switch box


chassis harness (Deutsch AS connectors, SPEC55 wire, DR25 heatshrink, Hellerman boots and all potted/sealed with RT125)


roll cage (also machined shift **** and hub extension)



close-up of hub extension


inlet tube that i use on engine dyno for turbo inlet pressure (i made these in various sizes)


EVO compressor cover modified for turbo speed sensor and post restrictor pressure port for engine dyno development


-franz

 

Hi Franz,
I have searched all over for the yellow heat shrink labeling for say coil or coolant temp etc but I have been unable to find it.
Can you point me in the right direction for all the components you used?

I only was able to find this site

http://www.cambridge-technologies.com/products.shtml

Looks amazing by the way!

 

Dymo Rhino Pro hand thermal printers are the best low cost solution for heat shrink tubing markers... the downside is that they only offer up to 1/2" shrink tubing...

KROY makes a good low cost thermal printer also, but it is desktop and spools of shrink tubing are expensive if you are only go to use it a few times a year...

 

Very nice build, Quality work. I like it.

 

^~ x2.

 

Looks amazing.
What will this car be used for?

 

Wow, nice EVO. Some serious fab work had gone into that.

 

Thanks everybody...

will use this car for track days and hillclimbs...

 

amphenol connectors are so great!!!

questin about all that wire, is that super high quality wire? so it does transmitt the signals faster making the engine and ecu work better together??

 

those are actually Deutsch Autosport connectors...

as for the wire...

smaller diameter, lighter weight, exceptional chemical and abrasion resistance, -65 to 200c continuous temperature rating, silver plated copper conductor..

also can be ordered dual wall (i use this for non sheathed wire so that abrasion wear can be spotted easier...

also, this meets all of material standards for Boeing to use in the 777 airframe... this and 44 (thicker insulation) are standard for both Aerospace and Motorsport use.

-franz

 

oh im so new to all that milspec wiring and what not haha i think im going to post a thread when i start doing mine and post pics just to let people know what im doing and let them help me :D
incredible work there, i really love it when someone pays that much attention to details!

 

And the KROY is what I would use to make the yellow labels?

 

from my understanding you use the dymo or kroy to make those labels and then you "fix" them to the harness with clear heatshrink.

 

Best choice for low cost handheld printer would be Dymo RhinoPro3000.... you can pick these up for ~$100, heatshrink label cartridges are ~$25ea... this is a pretty cheap way to get into being able to do heatshrink labels...

I use RT375 for the clear heatshrink tubing...

so basically, you would print the heatshrink label... slide it over the loom... shrink it... then slide the RT375 over and then shrink that... easy.

 

hmm if you know what you are doing and where to source your stuff, yup easy :D

i demand for more pics of the car, wiring, ecu and everything else!! i love your brakes btw alcon rocks!

i guess you are using motec ecu right?

 

is-motorsport in indy is a good source for most wiring harness needs... no issues with small quantities either...

ecu is now m800, was pectel sq6... but also had motec mdc, 2xpdm16 and sdl, so i decided to do the m800 to make the canbus integration straight forward.

-franz

 

amazing information.
Anything else you can contribute it would be greatly appreciated.

did you source anything from raychem or they are just overpriced?

 

damn Franz, looks great. lots of changes since the last time i saw the car!

i gotta come up and check it out in person, i have been trying to make it down there for a while now. i'd love to come down next time you have a motec ecu on the engine dyno

 

what material do you use for your manifolds?

 

what sensors will be on the engine to make it run off the m800?