ok here it goes.

code 14 is showing up which is the iacv so i took it off the manifold and cleaned it with carb cleaner, still got the code. i replaced it with another iacv and im still getting it.
i also (when the car was on) i disconnected the iacv and the car did not die.i did that for both.

as for code 16 i just replaced the with 2 new ones and im still getting that code.
connections are good and snug. could it be a fuel pressure regulator? i had a spare throttle body that was no good but i replaced the regulator and same thing.

 

I got a code 16 not too long ago, I changed the main relay and problem solved, as for code 14 umm after you replaced the IACV, did you reset the ecu? anytime you get a code, and you attempt to fix the problem you should reset the ecu, disconnect the battery or pull the hazard fuse for a few seconds.

 

just ordered one off ebay prolly comes like on tuesday or wednesday.
i will post up results when installed hopefully both codes go away,
if they both go away, what a relief lol its like painful pain going away lol

 

ok results are in main relay was wearing out so i replaced it with a NEW one.
seems like the car got a little bit stronger a good thing.
BUT im still getting code 16 and 14
injectors are new
ecu is good
main relay is new
fuel pressure regulator is the same .
but i still get the check engine light.

 

ok here are some pictures please do not respond if u do not know what your saying.
if u have experience please do im tired of going backwards.





theres also a video below here
View My Video

 

ok why are your wires cut?
what happend?

the three wires that are missing are for auto transmission/EGR set ups...
so you dont really need them.

 

ok the previous owner had cut it and i guess replaced it. i found an extra connector and looks the same as the one in it now. i noticed it had tape all over the wires it was nasty so i took off all the tape and noticed the connections wer not soldered. so im going to get my neighbore to solder it and hopefully that solves my problem. what u guys think
my goal that im trying to accomplish is to take the check engine light off completly.

 

 

great source of information thanks for sharing, will post results after i fix

 

What a relief! where should i start lol ill start here.

i had my neighbor re solder the wires.i watched him do it the whole time and noticed he was color matching wich your supposed to so i didnt pay attention after that but when he was finished, i turned the key check engine light was on when it when off the main relay clicked (good thing) then i turned the key again and started the car no check engine light then in like 4 seconds it comes back i read it and its code 14 .i turned off the car took out the ecu fuse and the hazard fuse and disconnected the battery. put everything back and i still have the same problem. so i turned the car on and disconnected the eacv car didnt die.
so in conclusion i finally got code 16 to go away but the only problem is code 14 could it be 1 misplaced wire i dont know he put shrinkwrap on it looks nice wouldnt want to take it off unless i have to.but what should i do???the eacv i took it off and cleaned it. its sittin out drying up and the gasket ripped so i have to order another one.

 

ok i checked the wiring and everything checked out fine the ecu wires looked all original in the black shrink wrap. i checked the 2 wires black n yellow and blue and yellow from the ecu they r good. checked the wires from the plug also and everything matches out. WHAT IN THE WORLD COULD IT BE ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!


just wondering u know where the bottomr part of the headers connect its missing a screw could that exhaust leak cause that problem?

also does the pcv have any role with the iacv? what plays a role with the iacv?

 

the thing that has the biggest effect on the IACV is the coolant level - make sure that it is full of coolant and that there are no air pockets in the cooling system - is the IACV good? - does it have a fluctuating idle? - to check the IACV, start up the engine and disconnect the IACV connector - the engine should rpm drop down to around 500-600 and remain steady - you will get a check engine light and code 14 when you disconnect it and will need to reset the ECU

 

yea i did that i disconnect it and it stays the same in regards to the coolant when i flushed it out it was dirty water and i flushed it a few times but my heater dont work. but when i open up the bleeder on the block nothing comes out. should the car be on or off when bleeding from near the top rad hose.

 

 

good post but i tryed the bleeder bolt and nothing came out i didnt even know about the one below that learned something new but like how can i test or check if the bleeder bold is any good or the water outlet thingy

 

you can take the bleeder bolt out of the water outlet

 

 

im going to check the coolant stuff out and see im pretty sure that would be the problem.
as for the wires by the ecu plug they are connected properly i checked if the wires come out and they dont but when i pull it it can move forward and back but stays in its only a little bit idk if it matters but not cuts or n e thing . after i check the coolant ill check the wiring either way i got 2 day moving permits for tomorrow and the next day so ill be taking the car to the mechanic hopefully they can help me . is there a name for testing the radiator and hoses?

 

no specific name for checking it

i posted the EACV troubleshooting guide since it seems like you get the code 14 right away which is usually an electrical or connector problem - for a coolant problem, generally you will have a fluctuating idle and the code won't show up until it has been running for a while and even then you may not get a CEL and code

 

Since you are having nasty coolant issues, you may want to replace your thermostat while you are at it.
jlicrx has a point about the code popping up so quickly. That does sound like electrical issues.

oh - when you get this all settled, put the factory intake back on. That filter you have on there is just sucking up hot air... as if the DX didn't struggle enough already with the limited hp it has.
Also might want to service your brake pads/etc. - your brake fluid looks looks like it's really low.

 

how can u see the brake fluid level from the picture? but n e way im going to the mechanic tomorrow i will post results.

what im going to have the mechanic do is compression of the motor fuel pressure check all having to do with the coolant, and timing .

so does an exhaust leak have n e thing to do with the iacv if so then its that one bolt thats missing

 

no, has nothing to do with it

 

ok i just took off the water outlet and i saw it was clogged so i cleaned it up and unclogged it as for the iacv or eacv im going to try fixing that issue by fixing the coolant stuff up if problem continues i will let you guys know.

will post more results tomorrow night or thursday night thanks again for everyones help keep posting your thoughts they have been a big help

 

RESULTS ARE IN!!!

compression test results:
1)220
2)220
3)220
4)220

fuel pressure test:
35 PSI

Radiator needs bottom clamp and thermo with gasket which thermo and gasket wer replaced.

they are chargin me 80 to check the evap system and make sure everything is good for the smoog then they are going to charge me 25 to check the electrical for the eacv what u guys think???

 

iacv problem is electrical i was told it was a green n black but i think its black and yellow heres a pic