As the title states
I just bough some Standard 81mm type r pistons.
Im not shure on what the compresion ratio is going to be...The online Calculators tell me around 11.1:1-11.5:1cr on stock gsr block and rods with stock gsr head.
Will i be able to run them safelly untill i gett a set of cams and an IM with out tuning on a stock gsr ECU then gett an p28ecu .
I read that the stock gsr ecu runs the engine really rich specially in vtec...?

Also i am going to put new rod bearings in.
Can some one send me the oem clearances for the rod bearings.
I bough the plastiguage to measure the clearances on my bearings just ned the specs.
Thanks
Oh and ive done research on HT on the search engine and found nothing to what i was loking for so dont tell me to go serch it again .

 

Think about what you're asking for a second.....

1.8L GSR block = R block.
GSR crank = R crank (stroke)
GSR rods = R rods (same part #)
swapping GSR pistons for R pistons = R compression ratio would it not?
If USDM pistons= USDM comp ratio. JDM pistons = JDM comp ratio.
GSR head when playing around on the compression ratio calculator = .2 bump in compression over B16a head.

See how simple it is to figure out the comp ratio with a little thinking?

 

If your not changing the rods to type R rods your not going to need to check your rod bearing clearances, make sure you do them one at a time and put them back in the same order and direction you took them out. make sure you get the piston directions, and the placement of the ring gaps correct as well.
GSR heads have smaller combustion chambers then type r's, so it will have higher compresion ratio. You will be fine running stock gsr cams, youll need to think about it more when you start to run higher lift cams.

 

Ok
What is the gap that is suppose to be beetween the rings
I dont have a ring grinder tool so is there a way to grind them up a bitt if theyre to tight to gett the right clerance.
The rod bearing that were in the car have 124 k miles on them aproximately......they look in a pretty decent shape to me
Should i take pictures and post them um on here..?
Or how do i look for anything abnormall....Theres no gauges, discoloration, etc etc
normall wear and tear..?

 

Hey If i was *** smart *** you and had alot of knowledge about hondah engines like the gsr ones. I would not be posting another add on Ht
Thanks

 

In all seriousness, if what I said was to difficult for you to figure out on your own with a little time, effort and common sense, I would suggest you stick to bicycles.

 

Thanks
That what exactly i am riding right now

 

Always check the clearances on any bearing you install. Inspect what you expect and it will save you money every time.

 

Lol!

 

Yep
pumpin my legs full of iron lmao

man finding adesent torque wrench is an pain in the ***
Were can I rent a decent torque wrench.the one that cliks not the 50s style ..?

 

Yeeah
I want this engine to last me another 100k before a complete tear down and rebuild from oil pan to head cover... ?
The head should be done by tommrow so i will go pick it up. Then start slowly slaping this thing back up.........?
I have a lil problem that i ran into
I took the timing belt of and is there a specific way that the new timing belt should go on there for the timing belt sensor..so that it wonr give me an engine code...?

 

Oem piston rings are pre-gapped,,,you can make sure there within spec,,,but if you get aftermarket then you need a ring filer.I would just go acl bearings standards they work just fine,i have it in my build and my car is still running.Also i have the same setup as you but mines oversized and with a ported head and ferrea flat face valves and a light pound exedy flywheel.The compression ratio should be 10.8 not at 11.0 because its not the JDM type r piston and if you do get the jdm type r you'll get around 11.3 compression.My tunner said its hard to tune it for 91 octane if i were to get the Jdm type r pistons so i went with oem.Want to check your compression go to c-speed honda calculator .com

 

gsr block, itr pistons, b16 head = 240psi on compression test

 

thats compression test what about it.

 

....assuming every compression guage reads exactly the same and we know that's not always the case. Compression guages are like dynos, great for baselining and checking your engines health as long as the same guage is used every time.

 

yeah i went there and it gave me a 11.1 to 11.5 so i dont know whats up

all i want is a streetable mildly built gsr with type r pistons and thats it
later on some cams and an intake manni...
My head shuld be finished tommorow and ill be asembling all the stuff
Gotta measure out my clearences on the rod bearings again.
Thanks guys

 

A .012"-.015" ring endgap should be good in the 81mm bore.

 

Thanks
The rings look like they have been already gapped butt i will double chek once i gett something to measure with.
What if the rings are not gaped to the proper clearance and you out them into ure engine and run them. What will happen?
Just some pics
Theyre not in butt getting putt in this week
New type R pistons


And the old abused/raped gsr pistons that ill sell later on

 

Sorry to bring the dead to life
I have more Questions on how to break in new compresion rings and rod bearing.
I read that "How youre gonna drive the car, thats how you break them in".

Well my engine is gonna be driven pretty hard every week if not more.

What oil do i need to use wen i first fire up the engine.

 

sounds like you need to buy a manual and talk to your local honda dealership/ performance shop.

these questions that you are asking, in my opinion, are questions that should have been figured out and answered before you decided to put the motor together yourself. its not exactly a walk in the park if you havent done it before. a manual will pretty much tell you everything you need to know.

and p.s., break it in with castrol or a good quality non-synthetic oil, id say 10w-40 or 5w-30. you are going to want to change your oil frequently once you start the motor. i'd say once at about 700-900 miles, and another change at around 1400-1700. then you can use synthetic if you would like.

 

I would have an experienced engine builder/shop do this for you unless you know an experienced builder who will assist you during the build..

 

I know that u need to use heavy oil. I just didnt know what kinda oil. Im hearing from alot of people use 50 weight oil for the first start up and run it for 15 minutes then change oil to like 10w30....?

 

My friend has built alot of b/k series engines
hes the one helping me out gett all this togheter
No bashing needed
I dont have $1k to pay to a shop to do things that i can do with a lil help from friends and HT and save 1k