As the title says How would you Break IN a Re-Built Motor?

The reason im asking is I just rebuilt my H22A4 motor and the worst thing that could Happen, happened. After about 68 miles into the drive the motor did a PING* sound and it started bogging out!

I already found out the problem, a bolt came out some how and rubbed on the timing belt and totally killing my belt and destroyed my tesioner spring.

I was doing 85MPH went it happened changing gears only at 3200 rpm. But i WASNT driving it at 85mph the whole time, i was just bring the speed up and then dropping it back down to 65mph. most of the time i was driving at 65mph.

Some People told me to do that, Was that the RIGHT WAY?
Some said i was suppose to drive it for 500 miles on Stop and Go traffic.
Some Say i should of just drove it at 65 to 75 mph only?

My Engine's Compression is 235 to 240 per cylinder, is this too high for a stock head? I have Type-S pistons in it.

 

I let mine idle at 1500rpm w/ torco break in oil for 30min. turned off drained oil switch right to torco sr-5 syn oil. Re-started long enough to bleed the coolant. Next time it started and any driving/loading was on the dyno. It had 2% leak down after switch oil.

 

Beat the **** out of it.. if it broke it wasn't built right.

 

ill try that also thanks

 

pretty sure your suppose to get on it and kinda beat it, not thrash it. the break in oil shouldnt stay in a motor for too long due to it willl stop doing its main purpose and youll loose oil pressure. never staying at the same rpms for too long, alot of engine braking cause vacum and allows the rings to seal quicker. of course, let it idle for a little right off the bat to check things, and make sure its gonna be fine...

 

This worked great for me. This is what I used for my hybrid SOHC and made over 200hp.

 

punk rock is right. it sounds like what you were trying to do is right but as for your timing belt something on that side was not torqued down to spec or just wasnt tight.

 

First run should be with cheap oil, I use whatever is on sale at the local auto parts store. Idle the car for ~30 minutes - this allows you to check all the oil seals, idle fueling, cooling system...etc It is important that you do not run excessively rich during break-in, or you will risk never completely seating the rings.

Drain the oil, inspect it for metal shavings, use a good magnet. If everything looks good, and the idle was smooth and not missing, fill with good oil and start driving. Vary load and RPM's. You do not want to be at high load and high RPM for very long, but do not avoid it. I change the oil again at 100 miles, and after that drive it like you will drive it for the rest if the engine's life.

**This is very important** If you do not have a previous tune for the exact same setup, or the OE Honda ECU is too far off spec to run, do not drive or run the engine until you have a wideband and tuner with you.

 

that is exactly how i was taught and even though i've only rebuilt one motor to date, its still running strong as day 1 on 30k miles. its my daily driver.

 

do the routine like change oil.mine just recently been rebuilt with brand new parts.i just got it on the streetz a lil under 1000miles.i smash on it here and then and hit vtec..is runnin good like a new champ.will see wut happen.