I did a search and found that a new master cylinder might be required, but to bleed first to see it that is all that needs done. The car, in my possession, has never had its breaks bled. I have owned it since 128k and it is now at 201k. It is a prelude vtec (ABS). So how do I bleed the breaks?, I have never done this before. Thanks all for any help.

 

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Not many qualified people here are going to walk you through it.

 

its complecated alright, best thing to do is bring it to a garage, it will be done right and should only cost 20 whatever currency

i like the signature

 

Did the search, not a lot of information on preludes as to how to do it. Just found the order of the wheels.

 

you might want to check a civic forum on a more how to do it yourself. Basically you just open up the valves furthest from the cylinder so its like this in order: Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front Left. And you let them bleed untill you see the liquid light yellowish.

 

Same relitive process for civics/accords as the preludes? I have all the tools, jack, stands etc. Just do not want to get taken by a shop for parts when it just needs a bleed.

 

Yes.

 

The honda service manual has two different brake bleeding sections, one on conventional and one on ABS. I have abs, but it calls for using an ALB checker. Can I use the conventional brake method?

 

ok, I have been spelling brake wrong which is why my search did not pull much. I was able to find much more info spelling it correctly, oops. My ABS is not working so does that mean I do the conventional method?

 

i think you are confused. heres how you do it

1. fill master cylinder to the max mark.
2. jack up car and remove wheels.
3. locate bleeder nipple on passenger front caliper.
4. place 10mm wrench of any type on nipple and connect a piece of 1/8" clear tubing to the nipple.
5.insert open end of tubing into a container of clean brake fluid (i usually use a water bottle).
6. have an assistant pump the brake pedal about four times and then hold the pedal down, open the bleeder nipple. if air escapes close the nipple and repeat until all air is gone. never realease the brake pedal until the nipple is closed.
7. repeat this process on rear passenger, rear driver then front drivers side topping off brake fluid after each caliper.
8. have a beer

 

LOL, thanks man, seams easy enough

 

Thanks a bunch my friend. Did the bleeding and gave it a test run tonight. Stopped very well with no noticable sag to the floor. The real test will be on the way home from work tomorrow when it is 100 degrees outside. That was when I felt it the worst. One interesting thing was the lack of air bubbles. Front passenger had none, rear passenger had one big one little one, and the driver front and rear had a few micro bubbles.

 

If bleeding doesn't solve the problem I would replace the master cylinder

 

I think that is what needs to be done, because it was sponging out today in the heat. What is it that goes bad on the master cylinder?

Bad O-rings, answered my own question

 

Ok, Blead the brakes twice. Second test drive yielded good brakeing for first 10 miles and then back to soft brakeing. When bleeding I did accidently leave the e-brake on for two wheels and then let the resevore get to about 3/8ts from the bottom on wheel three. Do I need a new MC?

 

look its your master cylinder, i have the same problem and am going to be replacing it within the next few days, very very easy to do. and no its a seal that compresses the fluid, it goes bad, either fluid or air go by it and ****s evedrything up... good luck, two bolts and undoing two pressure lines is all that is requierd! plus bench bleeding and regular brake bleeding.

 

Are you going New OEM, Used OEM or aftermarket?

 

ahahahha i am buying cheap garbage from advanced auto parts! it is a reman, although i am against it...my wallet isn't, oem is going to cost you...alot