Ok so i dropped 2 valves in my stock b16 wif ctr cams and valve springs hytech header and street tune... dont really know how it happened drove with those mods for a little over a year, so now i have to count my losses... I have in my possession 97 ls block and need to figure a cheap, but not ebay cheap build, that will endure road racing NOT A STREET CAR!!!! So ive been searching my *** off and not one post gets specific with valve clearances, its like ricer just do this or that... i would like 12+ compression ratio and meet 250+ to the wheels SO! any advise on valve clearances....

 

ur going need to run 2.0l block, plus a good set of cams like pro2 or bigger, and probably could use ur hytech header, and obviously a tune. When putting the motor together just clay the motor or have ur engine builder check it out

 

i dont think CTR cams will make 250Whp on a 1.8 bottom end...
Your gonna need some BIG cams and probably some more compression.
What type of fuel do you plan on running?
250WHP is probably gonna require a 2.0 liter at the minimum...Id look into a B20v over an LSv...
I think .050" is a safe clearance for Piston to valve and valve to valve clearances. Ive heard of some running down to .030"...
As far as absolute minimum clearance required, you better contact the more educated and experienced builders on here. I dont wanna point you in the wrong direction...

 

well i already have the b18... i got it for 100 bucks i know b20 would be best but its all i got right now... lol. is 250+ easily achievable cuz all the numbers ive seen suck but then again they mainly have rice headers... no offense...

 

yeah i know my ctr cams are no good for 250 but i guess my main point here is im ****ed i owe 8k on that car and i cant bare to see it sit all summer ya know!

 

You just want a good motor to put in the car without spending too much money, but would like 250 hp while using the parts you have...Thats gonna be tough...

Since you said your doing roadracing, I would ditch th ls block and pick up a B20 block. Builb it with 12-13ish : 1 compression depending what gas you want to use. Run the CTR cams and valvetrain. Get it tuned. it should be a peppy little setup!
How much you lookin to spend?

 

whoooow i dont want to keep the cams in there for good i know damn well they will not work for 250hp but temporary. i just read somewhere that all aftermarket cams will clear 12:1 comp ratio with ls rods but i dont get how that could be even with cam gears...
I am looking to spend just around 3 i would think. otherwise im almost tempted to just buy a full b16b swap from hmotors and call it quits for this scene

3500 plus shipping for b16b!

 

Sigh --- B16b...really?

H22 - 1200 all day
QSD H2B 750 all day
H2B header 400 all day

2350....190-200+whp and loads of torque over a tiny 1.6L

Sell your left over B series stuff and use what you can to pay for the H2B setup

That 1200 motor with a header will make more power and torque than a B16 with cams, headwork, header, pistons....

Dont waste your time with the B16's...with the available technology you can get more power from larger motors and spend less overall...

Edit: regarding the "250whp" bit....with cams youll be around 220-230whp depending on the health of the motor and if you spring for the MAHLE pistons you can probably bump it up another 10-15whp on pump gas friendly comp

So 500 for cams, 450 for valvesprings/ret and another 560-570 for the pistons...your looking at 230-245whp setup that isnt too radical....with headwork, larger cams, more compression obviously the motor will make even more power but as far as a simple setup this should come close to your "250whp" criteria....hell add some headwork and an RBC manifold and it should hit 250whp if not much more...

 

unless you have about 10-12k to spend you wont get near 250whp. have fun in your little utopia

 

I take it this was for the OP?

I think the highest B16 output I know of (true 1.6L) was 241 flywheel on an engine dyno and they spent roughly 15K or so...crazy little motor though...

 

well i have made 209 dyno jet whp corrected on a few that still had stock bottom ends and std bores those should be over 241 flywheel, they still had itr intake mani's also and chipped ecu's with a vafc, im 100% confident i can make 225+whp but im not writting the check for it. if someone bet me 100k i couldnt then i would take the bet instantly lock up the money in escrow and start building.

 

Dont buy a b16b...
For $3k, there are much more potent setups out there!
Hell even a mild F22 with cams will outperform a b16b!
For $3k and a road racer/ non dd setup. I would do a high compression B20/vtec or an F/H with a closer ratio tranny...

 

I agree 100%. I would do more research and not shoot for 250 whp. We all know dyno numbers don't mean ****. A strong motor with a nice linear powerband is what you should look for. To make 250 whp you are gonna need more than $3k..
I have a 2.0L sleeved B18c and am very happy with overall hp and tq..

 

u can achieve prob 210 with p30 pistons and head work and cams in ur lsv. 250 is a little high for a budget build with the wrong block, it can be done if u would have started off with the correct block (b20)

 

If anyone could do it I believe your are more than capable....but as you stated...the costs involved make it an option which doesnt make a whole lotta sense unless your stuck with 1600cc in the rule book in a $$$$ money series

I think with the availability of the large blocks/cc combos its just cheaper to use a large Honda block and hit the goal with minimal fuss

 

why is everyone saying to ditch the ls and get a b20? What he should really do is sleeve and bore the 1.8 to 85mm. But yea for 3k and 250whp u might as well sell your b-series stuff and boost a single cam. Just bein realistic.

 

Glad I found this thread...
I'm planning out a road racing oriented engine build,
but I've been told the B20 bottom end doesn't like high rpm because of the stroke.
I would like to see 9,000rpm if possible w/built head.., Can this be done?

 

250+ to the wheels for 3 grand? LOL

over 8 grand here and made only 261whp

85x89
GSR Alaniz ported head flows a little over 300cfm on std. size valves
JG victor X manifold Alaniz port matched to head and TB
Ericks racing 72mm TB
WEBS custom cams
WEBS springs/retainers
SMSP 2.0 header
B18c5 Darton sleeved by Benson
Wiseco pistons Gas ported 85mm 14:1cr
LS crank
LS Manley rods

good luck

 

ok something to work with here! h2b would be nice but 750 for the kit haha ur out of ur mind try 1k or lil more.... also i would have to keep my tranny for that nd NEED lsd to make it do anything... so 400 for lsd, 1200 for a good long block, 400 for a good header no dc bullshit and all the wiring and tuning and whatever else is needed to modify should be looking at 3k ish+ but idk how reliable it is ive never seen anyone around these parts talk about longevatiy.... and a b16b comes complete with LSD no ****ing around, and i can play with it later on in life when i get more mulla to play with it! if i can come up with 5k loan im just doing itr full swap WIth lsd nd i could use my tri y header and make 200whp easy, alot better than stock and i know ur all like "with 5k u can build a decent lsv making 200whp", truth of the matter 200hp stock and u knw its not hearsay bullshit and its all bolt in!. 8k for this dudes set up is nice but i wouldnt trust myself building this kinda work thats where a machine shop comes into play and gets expensive...

thanks for all the help guys i know b18 aint **** to make 250 but its all i got, im gonna weigh out the options here and figure out whats the best route, im not excluding or talking **** just figuring **** out. boost is out of the question for cheaper and safer. figured out the set up for boost and yeah 8k came out pretty quick ball bearing turbos aint cheap. and hi comp lsv isnt that far off and keep in mind this still includes keeping my si tranny not something to work with when road racing....

 

oh and road racing is something i wanna do but isnt mandatory summer dd is more suitable for realistic's...

 

that greats news awesome thread im working on a b20b build myself trying to make just 200whp

what all needs to be upgraded and done.
not necesarilly specific brands just parts wise.
like i already know
Built GSR head
12 or 13 :1 pistons
valve springs
rods
3 angle valve job
and a righteous tune..

what am i missing? price isnt a major deal but i do want to stay under 5k if possible..
recommendations?

 

Basically you've contradicted yourself in your own post

The B16b = 185 crank hp from factory = 2000 - 2800 for head/block/dizzy etc..
The F20B = 200 crank hp from factory = 950 to 1050 for head/block/dizzy etc...

You are going to pay MORE for less because .....it has a factory LSD attached to it?

FYI the CTR/B18C5 tranny is available seperately and you can attach it to an F/H series with the kit...the F20B is basically a B20 VTEC from the factory with MORE potential and a BETTER rod stroke ratio with TONS more torque than a B16

You are going to spend more to go slower with a B16b setup...makes no sense and the F20B is FACTORY RELIABLE (although a tune up wouldnt hurt for these old motors once delivered)

Stock H22/F20B heads > Stock B18 heads

SKIP THE SMALL MOTORS AND SAVE THE MONEY

 

go ahead pay 3500 for a destroked ITR motor

 

why do you want 250 hp? maybey you should sleeve the ls, get some rs machine 84 mm pistons ,cams and work on your tranny fd and gearing. this would be a great setup that fits your budget.

 

ok your prices r low ball no way in hell can i put an f20 in my honda civic, with out having either h2b kit and or swaping axles and getting a tranny and whatever nonsense there is.

and everyone keeps forgetting the fact that 185 crank isnt all this motors got, there are things called camshafts/pistons and superchargers or turbos that can make this 185hp engine do more, its just the plain fact i want a quick painless build and or swap no ****ing around get it done before summer because i dont have a garage to work in. I said earlier 3k for now doesnt mean i wont have money later, just setting myself up for a good foundation.