Sup everyone, I'm looking for a little advise and/or tricks&tips for a B18B3 motor. This is the motor that my '94 EG Ferio came with, I searched for this specific car so that I can do my LSVTEC on it once the finances are available.
What I'm looking for in the interim is a little more power & fun from it until the LSVTEC build begins.
It currently has a SRI with DIY CAI and a 57mm zorst. Rev limiter is at 6900RPM(stock).
My question is now:
*How safe would it be to move the limiter to 7500RPM in stock form if the tuner is able to match the fuelling & ignition accordingly or will the std ECU be able to "learn"? AFAIK the std ECU is a P34 piece.
I only wanna do the branch, intake mani, etc when I do LSVTEC.
*How does the power & torque curves look on a stock B18B3?
Thanks in advance

 

Well in the listing i found that i posted here, it shows your peak power is at 6900 rpm, but your redline shows 8000. Are you running the correct ECU? I am unsure if the P34 is the stock ECU for that motor.

B18B3

* NON-VTEC
* Found in:
o 1994-1996 Honda Ballade 180i/E
+ Displacement: 1834cc
+ Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
+ Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394 in)
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
+ Power:
+ Redline: 8000 rpm
# 130 hp (97 kW) @ 6900 rpm & 123 ft·lbf (167 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
# 140 hp (100 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft·lbf (172 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
+ Transmission: Y80/S80

 

but in the same instance, if your block is the same cast as the USDM LS motor, which is seems like it is, i dont know if i would raise that rev limiter if your trying to use that block for your LS/VTEC build. Those rods and rod bolts are not made to handle a higher RPM. Thats why it is so highly required to use stronger rods and rod bolts as well as new head studs when building a RELIABLE LS/VTEC. If you want it to last when you rev it out to 8000 or beyond, you need to rebuild the bottom end. If it made more power in that higher range, they would have set it that high from the factory.

I think it would only hurt your motor to raise it. You would prolly even feel a drop off in power when going that high with your motor. What trans are you usin now? and which do you plan to use for your build? If you want a little more fun for a relatively cheaper price, get a lightweight flywheel if your using the trans you plan on with the LS/VTEC. It will rev a little quicker than the stock.

You said "I only wanna do the branch, intake manifold, etc" when you do the swap.

Whats a branch?

 

Build the bottom end and get some aftermarket cams and maybe run an ITR head or a slightly ported GSR or B16 head. Better flow should make power up higher.

If you're building the engine though, you may as well just pick up a cheap B18A or B18B from the junkyard or even one with a spun bearing or something.

 

^^^ did you even read the OP's question?

He's not asking for advice on how to build his LS/V and he already has a B18B3.

READ!!!

 

@DC2-ProdUcTiOnS, thanks for your take on this and I'd like to pick your brain some more on the topic.
IRT the info you posted on the B18B3, I also came across that and this is what began to confuse me... Every EG 180i/E that I have come across in SA has a stock limiter of 6900RPM. I am yet to get my car on the dyno, so I am not sure how the curves look.
IRT the "branch" comment, it's what a header is known as here in South Africa - apologies for not keeping that in mind when posting.
As for the power figures that are listed in the above info, I have only ever known the B18B3 to come with 97kW atf. Have never come across one with 100kW atf. The B18B4 from our spec EK Civic Ferio came with 103kW atf.
To be honest, I am not exactly sure of what ECU comes out in these models. I have heard that it is a P34 unit and I have not been able to find any info on it either.
The more info that I can find on this, the greater it would help.

 

Well first off, here is a MUST READ if you are going to be building a LS/VTEC.....

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/


I also found more solid info on your Engine.....

* NON-VTEC
* Found in:
o 1994-1996 Honda Ballade 180i/E
+ Displacement: 1,834 cc (111.9 cu in)
+ Compression: 9.2:1
+ Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
+ Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
+ Rod Length: 137.01 mm (5.394 in)
+ Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.54
+ Power:
+ Redline: 7000 rpm
# 130 hp (97 kW) @ 6900 rpm & 123 ft·lbf (167 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
+ Transmission: Y80/S80


Ive also found that the engine is a mold from our USDM "RS" model integra. So with that being said, as i stated earlier, raising the rev limit without some work to the bottom end isnt going to do anything but hurt your motor.

what trans are you going to use for your build? Im sure you wouldnt have too hard of a time finding a LSD GSR transmission over there. Not as expensive as the ITR but just about the same. (FD is only difference)

See if you can find any information on chipping or using a different ECU with your setup. Your going to need a new ECU when you do your swap anyway. There arent many things you can do to pep up that motor without wasting money on something that wont break the bank or would only be changed when you do the swap that you would see gains from.

Most people with the "LS or RS" platform build it for boost because of its low compression. I mean 9.2:1 !!! thats low!! My advice would be to find what trans you are going to use, i wouldnt use the stock one. You can get that and use it on both setups. If you get a clutch and flyhweel with it, it will surely provide some better "spirited driving"!!

 

Thanks mate! This is the exact thread that I am using to base my build on. When I came across this particular write up it made the most sense to me and I decided to use this for the basis behind my setup.
IRT the gearbox that I wanna use, I'm still slightly confused...
I'm looking into swapping out my box with a Y21 unit that a mate of mine has in his 180i and doesn't like how short the ratios are(he's not into racing at all, more of a cruiser). Another option is looking for a S4C box from a B16A6, these are rare but still cheaper to get hold of than the Integra boxes as we never recieved the Integra at all. I am also considering whether the stock box won't work on a high comp build revving to 9000RPM.
The theory behind my build is to run it at 11:1 or 11.5:1, revving to 9000RPM(reliably), ported T/B, 4-2-1 header(45mm-52mm-63mm), SRI & CAI. Will look at upping the cams at a later stage. The tuners here reckon that on my ECU, they can chip it without any hassles. Will want to have VTEC activasion just after the 5000RPM mark(dependant on where it works best obviously).
The figures that you have managed to find now make a lot more sense to me, shot!

 

Been thinking about this a little more now. My original idea was to only do the motor once, but the idea of an above average B18B non-VTEC causing some havoc until I do the conversion is sounding good.
My B18B3 is the original motor from the factory and now has +-200 000miles on the clock. What I'm considering now, is to build the bottom end in preparation for the VTEC conversion, i.e:
Balance crank, ACL bearings, shotpeen rods, ARP rod bolts, 11:1 CR pistons, hone block, clean&prep block. (please advise on piston choice, Arias/Wiseco/Eagle?)
At the same time I will hopefully be able to swap my tranny out for a Y21 unit.
Obviously, I will need to clean the stock head up in the process and maybe upgrade valve springs & such while I'm at it.
With the above work, would I be safe in assuming that she will then be safe enough to be revved and give some decent returns until the VTEC conversion comes around?

 

*BTT*

 

Well since your saying you want to go to 11:1 compression with the pistons, you want to go high comp. so im assuming you want to do an all motor n/a build. However, those motors LOOOVE boost. Your piston choice will determine what your final compression rate is. Low Comp = Good for boost / High Comp = Good for N/A .....I agree with you that either way you are going to need to build your block for your final setup anyway, so you may as well do it in stages, when your moneys right, and you can do it the RIGHT way. As i stated, you need to decide what your true final plans for this motor are. If you go high comp you wont get nearly as much power from a turbo if you decide to slap one on later.

All that being said, if you go high comp ( i'd love you if you did cause im a N/A guy ) and you build the block up first, you need to make sure that you dont rev the **** out of that head. Your stock cylinder head wont be able to rev as high as your block will. But luckily, it will be once you put that VTEC head on it. The biggest thing is to get the motor tuned once you build the block. Even if you dont do anything serious to the head, you need to get it tuned. If you money is able, i would build the block as you stated above, and maybe get a mild cam that doesnt require a valvetrain upgrade. That should be a serious difference from your stock motor. And once you do your build if you do it in the coming months after, you can always sell the cams to get some $$ back. Also, if you get your vehicle tuned by the same tuner, he will already have a base map for your motor if you get it tuned when you build the block. So when you go back when you have the VTEC head put on, you will already hopefully have a positive rapport with the tuner and thats always good and tuners usually charge a lesser rate when they already have a base map in there programs.

Do you research and see what way you want to go. Stay away from the cheap eBay stuff, but you dont need to break the bank either on crazy expensive Brand names. (Spoon, Mugen, Toda)


Dc2

 

This cab came as an N/A and will remain N/A, only with ALOT more *****! lol
I love boost & I know it's cheaper for the same power returns, but an all motor build pulls so much more respect in my eyes and will work better for me as this cab is both my daily drive & toy.
What, in your opinion/experience, would be dangerous revving on the B18B head? Surely the head should be safe to the 8000rpm mark(or just short of that) and then once I slap the VTEC head on(it will be prepped for 9000+rpm), I can enjoy the full revability!
I will be using the same tuner that mapped my oldman's LSVTEC, I trust his work and the man lives on his dyno(he found 15whp with tuning alone on my mates car after it was tuned by the guy who built the car).

 

Im not sure about how hard i would rev that head. That would better be a question for the guys in the hybrid forum i think. Your stock motor makes the most power at 6900 rpm and red's at 7. My guess would be around 7500 or so. But honestly, once you find out how much your head can handle, your tuner should be the one setting your redline. You only want to go as far as your power curve is going. If you can rev to 9k yea...awesome....but if your only making power to 8400, your loosing power/time/accel by going up to 9k.

Check the hybrid forums and see how high people are going with a stock LS head. Make sure you tell them you will already have a built block. I keep thinking to myself, if you build the bottom end and leave the head mostly stock, or maybe just a cam, that thing is going to be a torque monster if its built/tuned right!

 

I will have a look around there as soon as I can get a bit of time. The info and time spent is highly appreciated and I'm now coming to a point where I know exactly how to proceed with my setup.

 

I've been searching myself dead for part numbers and just can't find a couple that I'm looking for! If someone could help me out here, it would be GREAT!
Looking for the following part numbers:
*B18C5 ITR pistons & rings
*B16B CTR pistons & rings
*B16B CTR bearings (these are for the 89mm crank correct?)

Do the OEM pistons come in oversize or is it only the rings?

Wanna get the details through to my contact at my local Honda dealer to see if she can get me prices & availability on these parts.

Thanks in advance

 

- ITR -
JDM Honda P73 Type R Piston Sets Standard Size
Item# 13010-P73-J00
Honda PR3 Piston Rings Set Standard Size
Item# 13011-PR3-003


- CTR -
JDM Honda PCT Type R Piston Sets Standard Size (EK9)
Item# 13010-PCT-000
Honda PR3 Piston Rings Set Standard Size
Item# 13011-PR3-003


- BEARINGS -
Honda P72 Connecting Rod Bearing A
Item# 13211-P72-003
Honda P72 Connecting Rod Bearing F
Item# 13216-P72-003

A-F = 12211-13216



The OEM Pistons come in there standard size. Thats why there "standard" The oversize is an option available. Its usually a .25 bore over the standard which requires boring the cylinders. The B16B (CTR) and the B18C (JDM ITR) bearings are the same.

 

*copied & saved*
THANKS ALOT for those part numbers, helps me big time!!!

 

Hi guys! It was very interesting reading this thread, I recently bought a honda B18B3 with skimmed flywheel, some kind of racing clutch, 63mm stainless steel exhaust, Vtec head. I have no idea what else has been done but I'd like to do a similar conversion on my engine... It revs 7 like u guys said but peaks power at around 6600... This car realy impressed me and I'd loooooove to f*** the guys up with the golf 5gti's and focus st's and so on with a N/A car... I had a race with a 2014 320d M series and I couldn't pass but was neck in neck up to the end of 3rd gear. I want more torque and speed what do you recomend I do 1st?

 

How about stop bumping 6 year old posts, start a new one and link back to this one.

 

Sorry, I'm new just registered a few minutes ago...
Thanx