Morning all,

I've searched high and low and can't find what I'm looking for, so I would like input from all of you. I purchased a 90 Accord about a week ago and started with a general tune-up, including plugs, dist. cap, rotor, air filter, oil change, and fuel filter (pending install). I've read everywhere about the main relay and plan to either re-solder or replace as well, so that's in the works. Currently, the car starts right up and runs smoothly, no IAC problems.

However, my main issue is of an electrical nature. Here are my symptoms:
-Oil light on all the time (have not tested pressure sensor, keep reading).
-A/C intake alternates from fresh air to recirculate for no reason, regardless of setting on A/C panel. It opens/closes about every 2-3 seconds.
-Dash clock does not work (keep reading)
-Blower only works when set to "high" setting. All other settings are null.
-From the back of the fan speed switch there is a melted wire corresponding to the "1" (or lowest) setting.
-Below the DS kickpanel fusebox there is a ground bolted to the frame. One of these wires is melted as well, which melted the black heat-shrink also.
-On the A/C panel, if I click both the fresh-air and recirculate buttons at the same time so that neither lights up, electrical power for the car goes crazy - in other words, oil light goes off, or fluctuates, seatbelts suddenly have power (electric for this model year), and dash clock suddenly starts working. However, this only lasts about 30 seconds before everything starts to fade in and out again. Meanwhile, engine continues to run fine.
-Finally, during this "fade", everything seems to get and lose power very rhythmically, like a turn-signal would do. I used a multimeter and determined that is the case, getting and losing power about one cycle every 1 second. Could this somehow be a turn-signal relay plugged into the wrong location??

So today I'm removing the fan blower resistor and fan blower unit to see what I can see. I've traced the melted wires (sorta) and they both seem to run to that side of the car. Aside from this, it runs very well.

What I could really use is a fuse diagram. I found one posted here for a 92 Accord - would they be the same?

Any thoughts?

I'll update as I go in-case anyone is having a similar problem as well.

 

electrical problems are very frustrating, especially on a new-to-you car.

like you've mentioned, there was at one time a large short or wire damage under the dash. i've run into this on a 96 accord (the dash wire damage), the dash had to come out, all of the burnt wires traced, cut-out and replaced.

to have it back reliable and working i would suggest a "big picture" approach. invest in a Honda service manual (the one that they use at the dealership) for your model. you'll pay a little more, but it's well worth it reading a book with such in depth specifics (not cut & paste with pictures from a ford Escort..haha).

pull the dash, and trace every wire that is burnt to the end of the burn. set them all back to the way they should be according to the manual. again, a bunch of work, but it should work fine.

you could also consider getting a dash harness from a junk car and just swapping that (and your damaged components, if any) into the car.

 

Ok, update - so I removed the glovebox, cross-bar, and started pulling the blower fan. Unfortunately, I didn't have a deep-socket so I couldn't remove the ECM to completely remove the blower fan, however I was able to disconnect some wiring, and upon starting the car up, everything seemed to be in working order. I think in all of the movement of parts, I repositioned the short because after a trip to the store and back, the problem returned. I've determined that it's having an effect on almost all of the internal electrical systems - from clock, to seatbelts, to the oil light. However, it seems to have no effect on the instrument cluster (with the exception of the oil light), which I assume is on a different harness maybe?

Also went to the junkyard and picked up some cosmetic pieces, and a new sunroof glass, as the one on the car is cracked. Since I'm going to pick that up Saturday, I'll be on the lookout for a new wiring harness also. Anything in particular to look out for?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

i don't know for sure, but i would imagine that the auto-seatbelt and standard seatbelt harnesses are different. make sure if you find one that it's similarly equipped.