Shaking steering wheel from 40-60
So recently my steering wheels been shaking from 40-60 and sometimes at higher speeds.
My autos teacher said it could be unbalanced front wheels but I wanted to get all possibilities of this problem. I also heard that it could be the drivers side axle
My autos teacher said it could be unbalanced front wheels but I wanted to get all possibilities of this problem. I also heard that it could be the drivers side axle
Just cruising, no matter if I'm floorin' it or just picking up speed it does it between 40-60 and then it chills down. I know it's not the brakes for sure
Did it fix the problem?
Did it fix the problem?
how are your tires? rotate them to the back and see if the vibration goes to the seat. if you dont rotate your tires every 3-6k miles thats probably where your vibration is coming from.
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From: Jacksonville Beach, Florida, United States
you could have bad upper or lower ball joints. When my fronts were in bad shape the car seemed a lil unstable and didn't track in a straight line even though it was aligned and when I replaced them it fixed it.
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Yea my upper balljoint on passenger side is gone to sh*t so that could be a possibility also.
I'm gonna get them balanced tomorrow and if that doesn't work, I'll just change the UCA.
Thanks guys!
I'm gonna get them balanced tomorrow and if that doesn't work, I'll just change the UCA.
Thanks guys!
Well I was driving and realized that it only happens when I'm giving gas so I'm pretty sure it's more on depth than just a balance. I'm gonna check the mounts and then replace the drivers side axle and see how it goes
I'm having the exact same issue with my beater civic. Rotation doesn't work, but I also have reason to believe it could be an axle problem. There's no tire wear, and I get the typical "bad axle sound" when I got from lock to lock on the steering wheel (but it's a very faint sound). Only reason I haven't fixed it myself is because I can't seem to find any lift points on my civic. Last time I lifted it for the tire rotation, it cracked the windshield somehow....
Last edited by Televator; Jun 25, 2009 at 08:34 AM.
did you change your upper control arm? how much tread is left on your tires? just cuz they arent worn uneven doesnt mean they wont cause a vibration...where any of the wheels bent? i think youre making this harder than it has to be.
I had the same issue on my civic. it would start to vibrate between 35 and 50 and go away at higher speed sometimes. I knew both of my axles were shot so I figured them to be the fix. till one day on the way to work they vibration got REALLY bad. I took a look at my wheels when I stopped and I could see a section of tire tread that had burst apart and steel belts were all over. replaced the tires and it was fine.
there is a jack point on the front end and i believe it is part of the radiator support. it may or may not have a tow hook still attached. it is exposed through the splash shield so you should be able to see it.
I'm having the exact same issue with my beater civic. Rotation doesn't work, but I also have reason to believe it could be an axle problem. There's no tire wear, and I get the typical "bad axle sound" when I got from lock to lock on the steering wheel (but it's a very faint sound). Only reason I haven't fixed it myself is because I can't seem to find any lift points on my civic. Last time I lifted it for the tire rotation, it cracked the windshield somehow....
Tires are fine, didn't change the UCA but that's on the pass. side and pretty sure that's not causing the problem. I'm almost 100% positive it's the axle
Sounds like an axel for sure. Keep in mind that its not just the driver side that will cause the vibration. either side can be the culprit.
I had the same issue on my civic. it would start to vibrate between 35 and 50 and go away at higher speed sometimes. I knew both of my axles were shot so I figured them to be the fix. till one day on the way to work they vibration got REALLY bad. I took a look at my wheels when I stopped and I could see a section of tire tread that had burst apart and steel belts were all over. replaced the tires and it was fine.
there is a jack point on the front end and i believe it is part of the radiator support. it may or may not have a tow hook still attached. it is exposed through the splash shield so you should be able to see it.
there is a jack point on the front end and i believe it is part of the radiator support. it may or may not have a tow hook still attached. it is exposed through the splash shield so you should be able to see it.
Anyway....how 'bout them Preludes eh?
This could warrant a move to "technical". Heh
theres a technical service bulletin out for a shaky steering wheel i dont remember how to fix it but if you know someone who has alldata or mitchell there just oem repair procedures that dealership use. but it could be ball joint. but unless you get bump steer too its not a balljoint or a tie rod end
Update: Replaced the drivers side axle and problem fixed!! Thanks for the help guys, hopefully someone else will find this useful lol
i've been having the same problem but from about 50-70, and the vibration got really bad under heavy breaking.
took a look under my car last night and sure enough the outer cv boot on the driver side is torn wide open.
no clicking yet, but i think i just found a project for my next day off.
is it worth it to just do the driver side, or should i do both at the same time? and what am i looking at, difficulty wise, if i do this in my garage with just a jack and stands? (man do i miss having access to a lift!)
useful indeed!
i've been having the same problem but from about 50-70, and the vibration got really bad under heavy breaking.
took a look under my car last night and sure enough the outer cv boot on the driver side is torn wide open.
no clicking yet, but i think i just found a project for my next day off.
is it worth it to just do the driver side, or should i do both at the same time? and what am i looking at, difficulty wise, if i do this in my garage with just a jack and stands? (man do i miss having access to a lift!)
i've been having the same problem but from about 50-70, and the vibration got really bad under heavy breaking.
took a look under my car last night and sure enough the outer cv boot on the driver side is torn wide open.
no clicking yet, but i think i just found a project for my next day off.
is it worth it to just do the driver side, or should i do both at the same time? and what am i looking at, difficulty wise, if i do this in my garage with just a jack and stands? (man do i miss having access to a lift!)
The axle wasn't that bad at all except for the axle nut and the snap ring. I also did it on jackstands. What I did was beat the **** out of the bolt with a hammer and chiseled the corners to brake it loose and then used a breaker bar with a cheater bar to get it loose. And for the snapring, you gotta take a big flathead, stick it inbetween the axle and tranny housing, and hammer at it. You'll see what I mean when you get there
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Weapon_R
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Feb 25, 2005 11:09 PM








