Ok. So I have a 2006 Honda Civic LX. When I got the car I knew the pads in front didn't have tons of life left in them. It's been about a year and they are getting thin. I bought the car with 28k miles, now I have 40k miles.

Today I got a break inspection. They (a mechanic who I think is reasonable) said I needed new front pads and rotors turned ($189), rear drums cleaned and adjusted ($45), and a brake fluid flush ($80). $315 total.

I have done 3 brake jobs in the past. Tonight I pulled the pads, pushed the calipers out and put on $42 Wagner ceramic thermo-quiet pads (nicest NAPA had).

Questions:
1. I could not get the frame that holds the front pads off so I could not get the rotors off. It was held by two 17MM bolts. I put some Break Free on it and the bolts still would not budge. I have a 2.5 ton floor jack but the car wasn't high enough up to really get my full body into it. The wheel wells are small. The rotor surfaces were still very smooth. No gouges or anything so I just slapped the new pads on. The question is: Is it a big deal that I didn't get the rotors machined?

2. I was told the rear drums needed cleaning and adjusting. My parking brake has to be pulled fairly far for it to engage. Worth paying to have done?

3. Do I need to pay to have the brake fluid flushed?

4. Do I need to have the brake system bled?

Thanks guys.

 

Drum brakes are a pain.Id be worth it to have someone else do it. If you decided to do it take both drum covers off but DONT undo both sides leave 1 side for a referance. I dont know how to adjust the parking brake also another reason to get it done by a tech. The only time you need to bleed the brakes is if you disconect the brake line from the caliper because you get air in the line when you do this. The rotors dont have to be turned but you will get a ton more life out of them if you do. Myne were starting to warp and i got them turned and its as smooth as the day i got it.

 

1) Not an issue to reuse the rotor. It would be best to lightly scuff the rotor surface first, using fine grit sandpaper and circular motions. I refuse to ever turn a rotor, complete waste of money. Be sure to bed the new pads correctly when reusing the old rotor, to remove all remnants of the previous pad and lay down a fresh layer of the new pad on the rotor surface.

2) Parking brake adjustment isn't too big of a deal, but as ironworker mentioned they are a PITA.

3) Nope. Flush it yourself if the fluid is too old or too full of water. Street car can go 20 years on the original fluid, more or less, without too much issue. I flush mine every couple of years since I track the car. Its cheap to do, so consider it.

4) You should bleed it just to be safe. Follow the order listed in the service manual.