i have a p28 ecu + chipped

its chipped with Spoon Sports

it idles low and dies on any ideas? i had some JSST chip i took off yesterday let me know if anyone can help.

 

pls tell me its not a chip u bought of ebay?

 

yeah but from some guy lol if i take it off my car wont go over 4rpm so the only reason i am using it, is because it lets my rpm go higher haha

 

The reason this happens is because there is a basemap on that chip...without it, the ECU doesn't know what to do, and it goes into limp mode (wont rev past 4k).

IF you remove the chip, you will need to remove the jumper (J1 i think) on the ecu. This jumper allows your stock ECU to read off of the chip. If this is still there, it will try to read the chip that is not there, and will send the ECU into limp mode.

Considering it's ebay chipped, I would suggest buying a different preprogrammed chip (from phearable.net or something) and replace it....or, replace the whole ECU.

Those ebay chips are WORTHLESS.

And if you reply to this and have more questions, please use some punctuation....i hate reading paragraph long sentences.

thanks.

 

Okay my bad about that. So what i have to do is just get a Pre-programmed Chip & it will work fine?


Because i had another Chip i forgot the name i hate limp mode. Thanks for your help man


I will try to buy a new Chip.

 

if the ecu was chipped right, then you should be able to replace that 28 pin eprom chip with any programmed chip. Phearable.net sells them for like $30 shipped, and you can choose your own parameters (vtec engagement, 2 step, rev limit, etc.)

If you still have problems, then you may need to replace the ECU.


Although the symptoms you gave can point to the ecu, we need to know more before blaming it outright. I just wanted to give an explanation as to why it acted the way it did when the chip was pulled.

anyway, try adjusteing youre idle screw on the throttle body to raise your idle, it may help preventing it from dying out.

maybe you have a friend with a p28 that you can swap with to see if you have the same sypmtoms...that's a good way to determine if it is the ecu itself.

 

So i got these problems all of sudden, I used to have Launch Control set @ 4rpm. It started Acting like that after i took off my old throttle because it had leaks.

me & my friend tried his virgin p28 it ran fine just single cam thought, I also asked Modacar he said if i remove J1 Jumper it might blow my motor up.

i took off the chip & broke pin accidently & i replaced it with that Spoon replica one. It just Dies i tried to Adjusting it from Throttle No Response, & Dizzy No response.

There is two chips in my ECU i can take picture i have pictures of the old chip here.

 

 

Get rid of that garbage eBay chip. Never buy a chip or "performance module" on eBay.

And no, if you remove J1 the engine won't blow up. It'll just run on stock basemap. "Modacar" is an idiot. There's more chance that the engine will blow up if you don't remove J1 and you continue to run that shitty basemap.


Also, you don't even have the entire chip kit. There's suppose to be capacitors on C51 and C52.

Get a chip kit from phearable.net and install the capacitors and the EPROM chip from them, or remove the J1 jumper to return to stock parameters.

Are you not using a chip socket? You should. The Phearable.net kit will come with one. That way you don't have to solder the chip in every time you put it back in or swap them.


This is what you should have:




Also, are you sure the board isn't damaged from bad soldering?

 

I'm wondering the same thing...I had a freind that bought a chipped ecu from someone online and it looked good from the top, but when I flipped it over, it was all jacked.


Looked like someone thought that globs of solder on each connection was the way to go. Unfortunately for them, they were dead wrong... some were so big, they were touching other pins from the chip....burns all over the circuit board....damaged circuits from too much heat....and tacky flux that was never cleaned off after soldering.


It was horrific!

Anyway, even if it seems that they did a decent job, visual inspections alone usually won't determine whether they did a good job....the only real way is to test the circuits and get a real good look at it, with a microscope. (sorry, I worked @ a telecom repair facility and got really into the circuit board repair).

If worse comes to worse, you can buy a pre programmed ecu from phearable.net for like $175.

 

yep yep modacar is an idiot... cut J1 and it goes back to the stockkker p28... go **** slap modacar then call phearable they got good ish

 

ill also **** slap who i got the spoon chip from ^^.


So guys, i cut the J1 works fine ill just order stuff from Phearable. If anyone can help me with this

I got a b20vtec with ITR internals, retainers springs, pistons etc. My question is what would be the best for me to do ? & stuff ill order it probably today right after i find the dudde.

 

At phearables website, you can give details to the engine and they can load a basemap onto the chip for your specific setup. This is good for N/A motors, but not best for FI, since you should get it tuned to that motor anyway.

Anyway, when you get the phearable chip, you will need to resolder that J1 connector so that it reads from the chip again.

Good luck with soldering that chip, make sure your temp isn't too high on your soldering iron (800 max is where my techs go when doing circuit board components.)

Also, they will be able to remove the VTEc speed limiter (meaning vtec can engage while just revving the engine), the knock sensor can be removed, and since you have their basemap, the O2 sensor gets disabled, so you can run a wideband for accurate AFRs, or just not worry about your O2 ever again.


http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcar...chip-p-59.html
Lots of cool other options also (2 step launch, CEL shift light, change rev limit, etc.)

 

and don't forget the capacitors.


for your engine parameters, don't pick VTEC to be at some stupid low engagement point. If you leave it blank, they'll do what they think is best to maximize the benefits of VTEC. They know what they're doing, so leave that to them.

 

this is true, I left mine @ the stock GSR engament point (4400 i believe)

 

That is what im going to do, right now my vtec engages @ 5, And goes down to 7.5.

I was wondering if i am running on a single cam if my ECU is virgin

 

You'll be running on a single cam fuel base map, so if you have a GSR/ITR head, you may be leaning out until you get your new chip. If you have a B16 head, you should be fine until you get your new setup installed.

With all those component, I am sure you monitor your AFR, just be sure you're not leaned out.

 

i got a b16 head, dang hate single cam lol alright i will start ordering the chip probably next week.

 

Since it's running on the stock ecu, your o2 sensor will balance out the AFR just fine.

Check out that link I posted....I bought a few from them and never really had any problems. Good luck.

 

CAR SHAKES LIKE A BITCH LOL THE WHOLE DASH AND DOOR SHAKES!! LOL sorry for caps haha