I am looking for a swap and I am leaning towards an Ls/Vtec. For one, I like the power that it makes. Two, it is orginal in my area. I just have a few questions...

- I am looking to build a strong reliable motor b/c it is going to be a daily driver. If i start by sleeving an Ls block, getting strong rods, good pistons and finding a quality head get me a good start??
- Also, if anyone has gone down this road... can you give me a ballpark price that it set you back (including all other swap pieces)?? I know someone is going to say "it will vary on what you buy and how good you go", but i would like some advice before i get in to far over my head.

Plus, i did use the search.. I didnt come up with anything.
If you can help me out, I would be greatful.

Thanks

 

You can have the best parts and and your motor last a week. All depends on who build's it for you.

 

best bet for a daily driver would be to use ALL OEM parts from honda for longivity.

 

best bet for a daily driver with decent power wopuld just be a b series motor


but if you have to go down that route I would go for a CRVtec the tourqe on them is badazz

 

and a b20 is twice the money of a Ls/vtec OEM

 

best bet for reliability would be to not go ls/vtec
just kidding, but they require some serious tuning and someone who really knows what they are doing.
But, they're cheap, and they can make a lotta power.

 

Why are they more expesive than a LS with oem parts??

 

ok since no one answer you question so here are my two cents the ls/vtec and the cr/vtec are both great for tq. but if you use the crv bottom then you should change out the piston but the only piston you can use is aftermarket. the stock piston are crap b/c the compression is going to be either 9.5:1 or 10:1. go lsvtec you need to change the piston as well. but at least you can use type r parts that will get it to anywhere from 10.8:1 or as high as 11.8:1 safely on pump gas. aftermaket parts are real good and is used in daily driven cars but dont last as long. OEM parts are the best for a daily driven car and will last. so no need to sleeve save the money and get other parts.

 

my friend who's on here (purplehazek..or something like that) did the exact swap and he spent 9g total on his motor...wish i had that kinda money

 

this is what im doing for my gsr bottom and si head. it wont put out as much as the lsvtec but get the same performance parts.
bottom end:
-itr piston
-stock rods and crank
head:
-full skunk2 valvetrain
-port and polish
bolt on parts:
-skunk2 intake mani, and exhaust
-rc 310 injectors
-aem full fuel system and intake
-itr headers
-bbk intank pump
-hondata stage 2
-msd 6a, cap, blaster coil

this is everything you need to have a wicked street car. you should be abel to run anywhere from mid to low 13's depends on weight too. this is my street HB and i also have a fully built cpe using after market internals and both are daily driving but the cpe already broke. still in my garage waiting to be fix.

 

damn he must have fully built the motor. i spent about 12 grand but im turbo/nos


[Modified by W.ZeroB18C1T, 1:55 AM 8/21/2002]

 

Will an LS block be strong enough to last thru daily driving, that i wouldn't have to resleeve the block??
- If so, that will save me some money.

Also, I read that the LS rods are not strong enough to withstand the high reving of the Ls/Vtec. Is this true, b/c i planned on getting aftermarket rods anyways?

 

I daily my Ls/Vtec and its running fine with the LS rods. I got the rods shotpeened if that makes any difference. It seems to handle the high revs without any problems. Just dont get any cermaic clutches if you plan to daily it.

 

dualknuttz do you have any pic of your ride? and bay?

 

an ls block is fine and if your not running comppression around 12.5:1 to 13:1 then you reall dont need the sleeve. sleeves are really good for force induction cars. NA cars for daily driving dont put out alot of power to crack the sleeves.

 

You guys have been a lot of help so far, but if you have anymore stuff please post it. I like hearing everyones input.

Thanks... keep them coming and if possible if anyone has a Ls/Vtec and has pics of your engine bay, post them.

 

My ls/vtec should be done by october/november
Here's what it has:

ITR pistons + rings (oversized)
Shotpeened LS rods
Balanced/Polished LS crank
ARP Rod Bolts
ACL Bearings
Clutchmasters Flywheel
Exedy Clutcy

1993 JDM B16 Head
Spoon Intake Cam/ CTR exhaust
ITR intake manifold
ITR outer valvesprings
ARP Head Studs
Portflow Inner valvesprings
Portflow titanium retainers
Port+Polish + 3 angle
ARC airbox
DC header
Tanabe RM exhaust
V-AFC
Chipped P-28

I also have:
VTEC oil pump
New Timing Belt
New Alternator Belt
New Water pump


[Modified by blackANESE, 5:05 PM 8/21/2002]

 

to do a B20/vrtec right you SHOULD get pistons which are an easy 500+ with a LS you can use pct's (CTR) or ITR pistons.

 

Then with 500+ pistons, you have to get 350+ rods.


[Modified by blackANESE, 3:40 PM 8/21/2002]

 

Hey blackANESE,

How much have you put into your motor? Sounds pretty solid.