sorry for my english
but here is my problem

first the charging light started to light, then the lights went crazy, the light was VERY strong and the headlights dont work, then the battery fuse blowed.

i got home to check it up and disconnected the alternator.
the ecu fuse blowed evry time i connected the main relay, if i didnt connect the main relay
the fuse would hold.

i found out that it was the cable that goes from the ecu to the mainrelay that have to cause that.
then today i tried to check it up again and then the hole ecu took a **** on me.
the A connector number 25 melted some in the plastic shield and something in the ecu blowed.

were should i start to find some answers before i get a new ecu

last year it ran fine and i havent touched something

the car is a crx vtec with obd0-obd1 and a p28 ecu

 

here is a picture of the inside ecu,

 

Here is the P28 pinout
It looks like you burned up a transistor too right in front of the darkened pin at the middle top of your pic.
The darkened pin appears to be A1.
I'm assuming that it's darkened because it's fried, but who knows. Maybe it's dark because the transistor heated it up.
A1 looks to be an injector wire - would make total sense for an OBD1 swap to have bad wiring at an injector.
Probably easy to check with an OHM-meter to see if you have continuity/shorting.

If that's not the problem I would do more continuity checks by attaching to one end of the burnt up parts and probing the connector pins to figure out which one traces to the bad part.
Once you find the pin you can troubleshoot your wiring.

A1 BRN INJ1 INJ1
A2 YEL INJ4 INJ4
A3 RED INJ2 INJ2
A4 ORN/WHT VTS VTEC solenoid
A5 LT BLU INJ3 INJ3
A6 ORN/BLK PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element)
A7 GRN/YEL FLR1 fuel pump
A8 (empty)
A9 GRN/WHT IACV IAC valve
A10 (empty)
A11 (empty)
A12 YEL/GRN FANC Fan Output
A13 GRN/ORN MIL MIL (check engine light)
A14 (empty)
A15 BLK/RED ACC (a/c compressor clutch)
A16 WHT/YEL ALT C alternator
A17
A18 (empty)
A19 (a/t trans only)
A20 RED PCS EVAP purge control solenoid
A21 RED/GRN ICM ICM
A22 (empty)
A23 BLK PG1 ground
A24 BLK PG2 ground
A25 YEL/BLK IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o
A26 BRN/BLK LG1 gound
B1 YEL/BLK IGP2 to pin A25
B2 BRN/BLK LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC
B3 (a/t trans only)
B4 (a/t trans only)
B5 BLU/RED ACS a/c switch
B6 (empty)
B7 (a/t trans only)
B8 BRN/RED PSPSW PSP switch
B9 BLU/WHT clutch interlock switch
B10 YEL/BLU VSS vehicle speed sensor
B11 ORN CYP P CYP -P
B12 WHT CYP M CYP -M
B13 ORN/BLU TDC P TDC -P
B14 WHT/BLU TDC M TDC -M
B15 BLU/GRN CKP P CKP -P
B16 BLU/YEL CKP M CKP -M
D1 WHT/BLU VBU Back Up Power
D2 GRN/WHT BKSW brake switch
D3 KS Knock Sensor
D4 BRN SCS service check connector
D5 (empty)
D6 ORN/BLU VTM VTEC pressure switch
D7 LT BLU TXD/RXD (data link connector)
D8 (empty)
D9 PNK ALT F alternator
D10 GRN/RED ELD electric load detector
D11 RED/BLU TPS TPS Signal
D12 YEL/GRN
D13 RED/WHT ECT ECT sensor
D14 WHT PHO2S O2 sensor
D15 RED/YEL IAT IAT sensor
D16 WHT/YEL VREF VREF
D17 WHT MAP Map Signal
D18 (a/t trans only)
D19 YEL/GRN VCC1 MAP 5V
D20 YEL/WHT VCC2 TPS 5V
D21 GRN/BLU SG1 MAP GND
D22 GRN/WHT SG2 TPS GND

 

the other thing that is burned just infront of the pin has been there before, it had to do witht something like the intake temp or something like that, i had it there last year.
thanks for the tip, keep it comming

 

a were and made a continuity check and cam up with

A4
A23
A24
A26
D2
is grounding

with the ecu out of the car

 

Those are all supposed to be grounded except for A4 and maybe D2.
You'll have to look at the circuit for D2 and see what it does, but I can't imagine that it's supposed to be a constant ground signal.

A4 shouldn't be linked to ground at all AFAIK.

 

can it been the ecu that have been broken?

 

Maybe, but do you want to risk burning up another ECU without going through realatively easy continuity checks on the harness?

 

no. were can i find diagram of the connector thats under the hood, the big round one thats near the fuse box, and what cables goes to the mainrelay, when i checked for ground there it was 3 cables that had ground there

 

7 and 2 on the main relay has ground, so iam gona check the fuel pump.

does anybody know were the fuelpump wire go in the car.

 

took out the fuelpump. and there ware connection between + and -
it should,nt be that?
but if i connect + and - to the fuelpump it works!?

 

kick'n an old topic. A friend of mine's ECU has the same problem. have you solved it? I was searching for the part number but I couldn't find it.

If you have found the piece, where dit you buy it?

Or could anyone else look what number is on the diode D1?