how to change vtec timing belt
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From: pocatello, idaho, u.s.a.
the only issue might be the warranty. If you go get a Chiltons' manual, the procedure is in there. You will need a feeler gauge set, a special socket with a handle connected, and a screwdriver for the valves. That's the way it is for the b series anyway. As far as the timing belt goes, that procedure will be in there as well. Although, I don' think you should need a new timing belt @ 10,000 miles.
is that what those thieving bastards told you?
but no, if your good with tools...its really a simple job that only takes time.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1908944
however if you dont know what your doing its best to have a shop do it.
but no, if your good with tools...its really a simple job that only takes time.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1908944
however if you dont know what your doing its best to have a shop do it.
Your timing belt should have been replaced before now however....... I don't know why you held off. It's 7 years/80k miles? Something in that range.
"Although, I don' think you should need a new timing belt @ 10,000 miles."
-vtechjunkie
i think he put all five zeros..
I think it was still the 7 yr / 80k,may have been 90k, why I put the ? for the CD chassis.
CG's may have been 105k though I can't speak for them.
If not is there info somewhere on procedure to doo the 100000 mi service???
You didn't bother to mention your exact model.
Assuming an F-series 4-cylinder, change the timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump (I recommend NPW), coolant (use green coolant, do not use DexCool), AC/alternator and power steering accessory belts (I recommend Bando or Mitsuboshi), camshaft seal, balance shaft seal, and install a balance shaft seal retainer if not equipped. If equipped with platinum spark plugs, change them at 105,000 also - use only NGK or Denso.
Judging by your questions, you're probably not ready to do this yourself.
8 years/105,000 miles is a general rule of thumb for all '90+ Accord timing belts. They're all fine with that interval. Don't push it though. F-series engines almost invariably bend valves when the belt breaks.
For the valves, I wouldn't bother messing with them unless they're making noise.
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you will most likly need a 750 ft lb or mabe even bigger impact gun to get your crankshaft pully bolt out ...
if your thinking about doing it yourself id expect it will take 6-12 hours.
the first time you do this ..... @ the factory the torque this bolt down to 180-190 ft lbs. if it has never been taken out then its a hell of a time to play with.
gl. there is a you tube video if u look u ACCORD timing belt its 14 mins long.
if your thinking about doing it yourself id expect it will take 6-12 hours.
the first time you do this ..... @ the factory the torque this bolt down to 180-190 ft lbs. if it has never been taken out then its a hell of a time to play with.
gl. there is a you tube video if u look u ACCORD timing belt its 14 mins long.
and if u are planing on doing the valve adj. like targa said if they not ticking dont need to play with them ... if you dont know what valve tick sounds like then i say dont play with them ... its really not a big issue.
Thanks everyone for your input. My girlfriend's son has told her that he can't do the timing belt, water pump etc etc. He says it has too be done by a HONDA dealer as the engine is computer controlled 2002 ACCORD F23A1 I4. He has worked on his HONDA and talks a good line which she believes. I am confident I can do this. It doesn't sound any tougher than complete rebuilds I have done on small block chevy engines, manual transmission rebuilds, R&R the ALLISON trans in my 2500HD GM pickup, and several other fixes and rebuilds.
they are. 
kc-runner, sounds like you have plenty of skills to do this job. nothing to be scared of. I do recommend buying the crank pulley tool for about $40. saves a load of aggravation. There is a real good writeup for the f22 in the FAQs that is 95% or more the same as the f23.

kc-runner, sounds like you have plenty of skills to do this job. nothing to be scared of. I do recommend buying the crank pulley tool for about $40. saves a load of aggravation. There is a real good writeup for the f22 in the FAQs that is 95% or more the same as the f23.

Nothing related to the timing belt service is electronically controlled, so you have nothing to worry about. As mentioned, getting the crank pulley bolt broken loose will be the most difficult part for a home mechanic.
And of course, here is a nice writeup of changing the timing belt with lots of pics:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-timing-belt-timing-balancer-belt-water-pump-f22b1-1908944/
And of course, here is a nice writeup of changing the timing belt with lots of pics:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1908944
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1908944

How To Replace Timing Belt - Timing Balancer Belt - Water Pump.pdf
Yeah thats the pdf I used last summer to do my 94 accord f22b1 vtec, practically the same engine far as I know. 1st one ive ever done and followed that pdf plus my honda technician manual and came out perfect but took about 12 hours total because I did all the cam, crank, and bal. shaft seals as well which were a biaatch!! Deffinately use a 5 ft cheeter bar on breaker bar, but make sure to support the extension with a jack stand otherwise you could break or bend the extension. This was the only thing that would break the crank bolt loose on mine and had to put all 200lbs of myself on the cheeter bar!!! and its easy to adjust your valve lash when your done, just need a feeler gauge a screwdriver and a ratchet and the specs of course. There's a diy for that as well in the "accord FAQ". Good luck, its not that hard just time consuming, I could probably do another one w/o the seals in about 4-5 hours now.
You should always do the cam and crank seals while you have the belts off. If you can't find time to do them while you have everything apart and can access them easily, how are you going to find time to tear it all down again to replace them when they start to leak?
105k is a good interval. I don't necessarily recommend replacing the H20 pump/ F seals every timing belt but inspect for weepage( iKnow Honda says this is normal) leakage, and bearing feel at the H20 pump, But Every second timing belt I do. i.e. At 105k I would do T-belt, Balance Belt, Drive belts/ inspect/* replace as necessary seals/pump. At 210 though, I recommend all driven belts, H20 pump front seals including the rear bal. shaft drive gear sealing Oring.
I recommend replacing , timing belt, WP ,all rollers, and seals and accessory belts. A non-leaking auto tensioner ( hydraulic automatic adjuster ) on V6's might be an optional "peace of mind" item .
Crankshaft pulley tool -
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...pful_tips.html
Also Google for " Honda pulley tool "
OEM parts are the best choice but there are good aftermarket parts out there ( Bando or
Gates belts, KOYO tensioners, NPW water pumps -
A good vendor - www-dot-timingbelt-kit-dot-com
Crankshaft pulley tool -
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...pful_tips.html
Also Google for " Honda pulley tool "
OEM parts are the best choice but there are good aftermarket parts out there ( Bando or
Gates belts, KOYO tensioners, NPW water pumps -
A good vendor - www-dot-timingbelt-kit-dot-com
Last edited by rkpatt; Jun 10, 2009 at 09:43 AM.
Thank you for inviting me to your forum!
how do you get diagram to set timing on a 96' honda accord vtec please, I need help to install new timing belt, please! and torque spec for the gears and crank pulley. thank you!
how do you get diagram to set timing on a 96' honda accord vtec please, I need help to install new timing belt, please! and torque spec for the gears and crank pulley. thank you!
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