I had my B16 in my old crx and wrecked it so I recently swapped it into another crx hf this time instead of an si.

UPDATE: Car is ALIVE! I swapped out dizzys, the brand new Distributor king one must be defective. I swapped in a stock dizzy and she fired right up.

Now the only code I am getting is 7, TPS which I'm pretty sure we smashed dropping the motor in so that code was a given.

I have some questions on these vaccum lines below I don't know where they go?

 

Code 16 Fuel Injectors is because the motor would be running so lean because you are telling a DOHC B series to run on the amount of fuel that an HF runs on which is not a good idea.

Code 20 ELDPR3 ECU's do not have ELD sensor in them hence why the code is not throwing on the PR3.

Code 15 Ignitor Do you have another dizzy to try? It's possible you got a defective one from where ever you bought it from.

 

No any extra dizzys. yeah that rules those 2 codes out but code 15 ignition output signal could be my culprit for no spark? If the PR3 ECU isn't pulling any codes could it
just be bad

 

Yes the ignition output signal on my b16 dizzy went bad, car didn't spark I might be able to get it to sputter once, swapped out the dizzy with another, fired right up. You can swap the Igniter out from a D series from what I'v read online but I would just take it back if it's under warranty.

Does the ECU flash once when you turn the car on the accessory click? This will tell you if the ECU is working properly.

The car is still OBD0 correct?

 

Yeah still obd0 and the ECU does flash once when you turn the key to the on position.

I'm trying to find a detailed wiring diagram of the wires from the dizzy to the ECU so I can determine which are suppose to have power and or not getting power.

 

OBD0...
------------------
[b10]...; cyp P aka cylinder position
[b12]...; cyp M aka cylinder position
[c3].....; tdc P aka top dead center
[c4].....; tdc M aka top dead center
[c1].....; ckp P aka crank position
[c2].....; ckp M aka crank position
[b15]...; Ignitor signal

Maybe that will help you some

Also this for knowing what color does what.

 

Awesome man thanks I'll go out and do some checks real quick.

 

Initially you are looking for power on the Large White white because this is the one that runs you Ignition Control Module.

Good Luck hope you figure it out.

 

So is that going to be B15 on the ECU side.

 

Yeah also the wire should be a large white wire. I would check it at the dizzy plug first though to see if you got a connection there first and then check the ECU because if you have continuity at the ECU but not at the plug, you know you have a break in the wire.

 

Well I checked for voltage at the plug, it's only reading around 5 volts when the key is turned and a little over 5 when the engines cranking. Also checked for continuity from the ECU to the plug and couldn't get a reading.

 

ok I hooked the external coil up to direct battery and it runs and gives out spark. I connect everything back up on the dizzy and it doesn't run anymore. The black/yellow power wire to the coil is getting 12volts so power isn't an issue.

 

are you using the HF engine harness? - the Si engine harness will not work with the HF chassis harness

 

correct me if im wrong but i thought the pm5 was the dpfi ecu and and the hf was a pm7or something, and if the car has been converted to mpfi wouldnt that throw some codes like the three your getting, because of the injector wiring and what not

 

no I carried over my SI engine harness and I'm just using the PR3 ECU now that I know its good. I'm not going to switch to a PM8 which I was trying earlier.

 

you are using the Si harness on the motor and a HF underdash if I understand correctly? If so, it won't work as the Si and the HF underdash plugs are pinned differently. You will need to swap motor harnesses if this is the case or rewire it.

Does the Large White wire have any power going to it? That's the one that runs the Ignition control module.

 

go here:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...engine+harness

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...engine+harness

 

Ok I switched the wires at the connectors like shown in the links above so now everything should be golden. I'm still not getting any spark. I can test the coil and it sparks fine but when its all plugged up nothing is telling it to cycle. I'm looking for daigrams that well me the functions of all these wires.

 

The coil seems to be getting really hot just when the key is turned to the on position.

 

 

Anyone know where I can plug those? The engines running now but weak just putting along prob a vaccum issue 3-4 of them shown above aren't hooked up and looks to have no place to go?

 

Hey to the OP, when your distributor was getting hot at the coil and you had no spark, and a code 8.... what did you do to fix it?!?!

I have a CRX that I had to re-wire the entire car and it has this condition now.

a lil history;
I replaced every wire in the car from the headlights to the tail lights. The car started out life as a DX, and was changed to MPFI, but at some point someone tried to solder the main relay and failed, and it melted some wires under the dash and they gave up trying to fix it, when I came in and replaced all the wires, as well as the main relay lol. Then I converted the new wiring harness (from another DX) to MPFI. It was a different year so I had to change the lighting harnesses and dash, floor, ect ect. The whole car is now the other one that I took the harness from....wiring-wise.

I have fuel pump priming for two seconds, as usual...
I have injector pulse
I have 4 ECUs and 3 dizzy's.... and I always get the same answer..... code 8 TDC.....
And the dizzy gets hot at the coil, as well as the ECU getting hot.

I've ohmed out every wire from the dizzy to the ECU; they all have continuity and every single one is in the right location per TurboGixxer's ECU pinout (I even checked another OBD-0 Rex and the wires all match up at the ECU)

I do MPFI swaps and OBD-1 conversions all the time and I've never had a problem like this I'm losing my friggin mind help H-T!