anybody use e3 spark plugs?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,201
Likes: 0
From: West San Jose, Ca, USA
well just picked up a set for my sister 99em1 gotta smog for registration. seen spark comparrisions between regular plugs and dyno numbers on muscle cars but havent seen anything on hondas. maybe im just not looking hard enough but curious if mileage is better and if they notice any performance.
installed them today.the work as avertised exept i havnt tested gas milage. i switched from ngk iridiums.my idle smoothed out. engine feels better,more responsive.
Seriously, if X spark plug DID get better mileage then wouldn't manufacturers just use them off the factory floor? It's not like they're saving a buck with shitty plugs, Iridiums are not cheap.
It's all a ploy, there's no magic spark plug. Just use factory recommended, gap to service manual specs and be happy.
well i didnt lose anything. saved some money. no bad effects i think i still win. i can say i used them in my lawn mower and could cut twice as much on a full tank. i forgot to mention im using them in a h22a typ s. i installed them because they been running exellent in all the cars at the local tuning shop that wanted them.they did good on horsepower tv. i also tried pulsar plugs.
stay away from them foreal.
stay away from them foreal.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,201
Likes: 0
From: West San Jose, Ca, USA
Probably woulda done the same thing with new NGK's. Old plugs replaced by new plugs = better idle regardless
Seriously, if X spark plug DID get better mileage then wouldn't manufacturers just use them off the factory floor? It's not like they're saving a buck with shitty plugs, Iridiums are not cheap.
It's all a ploy, there's no magic spark plug. Just use factory recommended, gap to service manual specs and be happy.
Seriously, if X spark plug DID get better mileage then wouldn't manufacturers just use them off the factory floor? It's not like they're saving a buck with shitty plugs, Iridiums are not cheap.
It's all a ploy, there's no magic spark plug. Just use factory recommended, gap to service manual specs and be happy.
Wow. Let's see actual dyno numbers between plugs.....(its ok to laugh at that)
Because electricity choses the "best" route through metals it will jump to the closest spot possible. you can add all types of prongs to plugs and it WILL NOT DO A DAMN THING! this is why spark plug gaps are important. this is the way to control your spark plug and it only needs one standard issue peg plug.
Iridium is for a colder spark for higher compression or boost.
e3 plugs are NOT new to the market. they have been around for years. Nobody who works on their own car uses them because if you do a little research on electricity you would know why they do not work.
To the OP... You would have felt those improvements with a properly gapped new plug. If plugs actually could give you more HP don't you think they would cost more then 3 bux?
Because electricity choses the "best" route through metals it will jump to the closest spot possible. you can add all types of prongs to plugs and it WILL NOT DO A DAMN THING! this is why spark plug gaps are important. this is the way to control your spark plug and it only needs one standard issue peg plug.
Iridium is for a colder spark for higher compression or boost.
e3 plugs are NOT new to the market. they have been around for years. Nobody who works on their own car uses them because if you do a little research on electricity you would know why they do not work.
To the OP... You would have felt those improvements with a properly gapped new plug. If plugs actually could give you more HP don't you think they would cost more then 3 bux?
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Wow. Let's see actual dyno numbers between plugs.....(its ok to laugh at that)
Because electricity choses the "best" route through metals it will jump to the closest spot possible. you can add all types of prongs to plugs and it WILL NOT DO A DAMN THING! this is why spark plug gaps are important. this is the way to control your spark plug and it only needs one standard issue peg plug.
Iridium is for a colder spark for higher compression or boost.
e3 plugs are NOT new to the market. they have been around for years. Nobody who works on their own car uses them because if you do a little research on electricity you would know why they do not work.
To the OP... You would have felt those improvements with a properly gapped new plug. If plugs actually could give you more HP don't you think they would cost more then 3 bux?
Because electricity choses the "best" route through metals it will jump to the closest spot possible. you can add all types of prongs to plugs and it WILL NOT DO A DAMN THING! this is why spark plug gaps are important. this is the way to control your spark plug and it only needs one standard issue peg plug.
Iridium is for a colder spark for higher compression or boost.
e3 plugs are NOT new to the market. they have been around for years. Nobody who works on their own car uses them because if you do a little research on electricity you would know why they do not work.
To the OP... You would have felt those improvements with a properly gapped new plug. If plugs actually could give you more HP don't you think they would cost more then 3 bux?
there plugs are 6.99 per plug here. theres plenty of dyno charts with e3 plugs online. hell horsepower tv even tested them. i been building regular engines and race engines for years i can tell you how they do work. in our race car applications we change out spark plugs after every run at VIR(virginia international Racway). we use copper spark plugs with fine points. the prob is after a run we lost 10% of power due to the wear on the fine point. with e3 plugs there are multiple sharp edges around the plug which give the spark more paths to follow, thus reducing wear on each part of the electrode. I tried the e3 plugs in our h22a civic hatch after watching it on horsepower tv mainly for the reduction in the wear. it allows us to save more money buy replacing the spark plugs after 1 whole week end of racing vs just 1 run. many would ask why not use iridium. simple copper is more conductive than iridium. we also have taken intrest in silver spark plugs.
i run a shop we specialize in honda swaps but have done 1jz swap into a 89 supra,20v 4age silver top into geo prism (:D). pretty much i can do any swap with diagrams. i never claimed any huge power gain. i said there is no ill effects.
there plugs are 6.99 per plug here. theres plenty of dyno charts with e3 plugs online. hell horsepower tv even tested them. i been building regular engines and race engines for years i can tell you how they do work. in our race car applications we change out spark plugs after every run at VIR(virginia international Racway). we use copper spark plugs with fine points. the prob is after a run we lost 10% of power due to the wear on the fine point. with e3 plugs there are multiple sharp edges around the plug which give the spark more paths to follow, thus reducing wear on each part of the electrode. I tried the e3 plugs in our h22a civic hatch after watching it on horsepower tv mainly for the reduction in the wear. it allows us to save more money buy replacing the spark plugs after 1 whole week end of racing vs just 1 run. many would ask why not use iridium. simple copper is more conductive than iridium. we also have taken intrest in silver spark plugs.
there plugs are 6.99 per plug here. theres plenty of dyno charts with e3 plugs online. hell horsepower tv even tested them. i been building regular engines and race engines for years i can tell you how they do work. in our race car applications we change out spark plugs after every run at VIR(virginia international Racway). we use copper spark plugs with fine points. the prob is after a run we lost 10% of power due to the wear on the fine point. with e3 plugs there are multiple sharp edges around the plug which give the spark more paths to follow, thus reducing wear on each part of the electrode. I tried the e3 plugs in our h22a civic hatch after watching it on horsepower tv mainly for the reduction in the wear. it allows us to save more money buy replacing the spark plugs after 1 whole week end of racing vs just 1 run. many would ask why not use iridium. simple copper is more conductive than iridium. we also have taken intrest in silver spark plugs.
OP: You will not gain any power over a brand new set of NGK V-power (OEM). They might last longer.
i run a shop we specialize in honda swaps but have done 1jz swap into a 89 supra,20v 4age silver top into geo prism (:D). pretty much i can do any swap with diagrams. i never claimed any huge power gain. i said there is no ill effects.
there plugs are 6.99 per plug here. theres plenty of dyno charts with e3 plugs online. hell horsepower tv even tested them. i been building regular engines and race engines for years i can tell you how they do work. in our race car applications we change out spark plugs after every run at VIR(virginia international Racway). we use copper spark plugs with fine points. the prob is after a run we lost 10% of power due to the wear on the fine point. with e3 plugs there are multiple sharp edges around the plug which give the spark more paths to follow, thus reducing wear on each part of the electrode. I tried the e3 plugs in our h22a civic hatch after watching it on horsepower tv mainly for the reduction in the wear. it allows us to save more money buy replacing the spark plugs after 1 whole week end of racing vs just 1 run. many would ask why not use iridium. simple copper is more conductive than iridium. we also have taken intrest in silver spark plugs.
there plugs are 6.99 per plug here. theres plenty of dyno charts with e3 plugs online. hell horsepower tv even tested them. i been building regular engines and race engines for years i can tell you how they do work. in our race car applications we change out spark plugs after every run at VIR(virginia international Racway). we use copper spark plugs with fine points. the prob is after a run we lost 10% of power due to the wear on the fine point. with e3 plugs there are multiple sharp edges around the plug which give the spark more paths to follow, thus reducing wear on each part of the electrode. I tried the e3 plugs in our h22a civic hatch after watching it on horsepower tv mainly for the reduction in the wear. it allows us to save more money buy replacing the spark plugs after 1 whole week end of racing vs just 1 run. many would ask why not use iridium. simple copper is more conductive than iridium. we also have taken intrest in silver spark plugs.
not a advertisement race setting. So they really held up the whole weekend?
If so, right on!
civic in action . accidently went from first to 4th to 2nd then to 3rd oops http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JY_MQIE2374
jesus u people need to use facts we in a tec hnology error jump on it and quit living by old technology http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r205...00-Mile-Review
jesus u people need to use facts we in a tec hnology error jump on it and quit living by old technology http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r205...00-Mile-Review
If you're going to present "facts," try presenting ones in which the experiment had control. There are way too many variables to say that they really helped that much, and those variables were not controlled. The only thing that was controlled was the placebo effect (since the wife was not told about the spark plugs) but all that tells us accurately is that the engine runs a little bit smoother.
Okay, but what I already said is that if you don't have a race car then you don't need these plugs. If you don't beat the **** out of your engine on a regular basis, you don't need them.
You need them because they stand up to the wear and tear of a race car. That's great. But people who only daily drive their Civic will probably not notice a single difference over OEM NGK V-Power plugs.
You need them because they stand up to the wear and tear of a race car. That's great. But people who only daily drive their Civic will probably not notice a single difference over OEM NGK V-Power plugs.
My experience was that the car actually ran better with them only when racing. but if i were to drive slow and under 2500 rpms they would start miss firing slightly. but when it did that id usually open it up all the way to 7800 rpm and they would go away. and if i kept driving slow they would have small miss fires random ones. so during the week id run my ngk's but on weekend or track days i put the E3's in and never had problems they helped and didn't miss fire in high rpms. the NGK's would get hot when at high rpms for a top speed run and start miss firing and e3's ran great even at 7200 rpm for a good 5 minutes running through 4th gear and 5th gear top.
My experience was that the car actually ran better with them only when racing. but if i were to drive slow and under 2500 rpms they would start miss firing slightly. but when it did that id usually open it up all the way to 7800 rpm and they would go away. and if i kept driving slow they would have small miss fires random ones. so during the week id run my ngk's but on weekend or track days i put the E3's in and never had problems they helped and didn't miss fire in high rpms. the NGK's would get hot when at high rpms for a top speed run and start miss firing and e3's ran great even at 7200 rpm for a good 5 minutes running through 4th gear and 5th gear top.
civic in action . accidently went from first to 4th to 2nd then to 3rd oops http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JY_MQIE2374
Okay, but what I already said is that if you don't have a race car then you don't need these plugs. If you don't beat the **** out of your engine on a regular basis, you don't need them.
You need them because they stand up to the wear and tear of a race car. That's great. But people who only daily drive their Civic will probably not notice a single difference over OEM NGK V-Power plugs.
You need them because they stand up to the wear and tear of a race car. That's great. But people who only daily drive their Civic will probably not notice a single difference over OEM NGK V-Power plugs.
ahaaaaaa got cha i missed that sorry. as for the fry your clutch comment. its kinda hard to do that on my setup. the clutch locked but it was only spinning at 3000 rpm so i went back into second. we use a 4 puck act with springs in which beating the hell out of it its going on 2 years now. good stuff. if i had a organic i woulda hurt it going into 4th
Kinda hard to tell since this post has been dead a few days.
And are you sure you're talking about ignition timing and not the mechanical timing? Also, which timing belt did you use for the swap? D16Z6 belt, right? Also, it's better to use D16Y5 (HX) plugs because they are a little colder, which helps with the raised compression.


