basic motor rebuild help
Hi, im new to the engine rebuilding process. i was wondering what kinds of parts do i need to replace with brand new parts when rebuilding a motor. im talking about all the basic stuff like thermostat, water pump, oil pump, oil pan, rod bearings, piston rings, main bearings, timing belt, alternator belt, injectors, spark plugs & wires. what other parts from the bottom block do i need to replace with brand new oem parts that i didnt mention yet? im rebuilding a 1994 h22a1 motor and plan on using the type s pistons and brian crower stage 2 n/a cams with their TI retainers and springs kit. the same thing for the head what other parts besides cams, springs and retainers am i going to need to change? please help me out. if u could please list the part # and how many pieces i would need of each part. thanks in advance
You might as well check the LMA's, which are in the head to see if they still have any spring life in them as well... I forget how many, I believe it is 8, I might be wrong...
im a firm believer in making sure everything is in top notch condition when rebuilding so with that said:
in the head: get the valve guides checked for taper and wear; valve seals of course; cam bores for out of round and alignment; make sure the deck is flat; valve job cant hurt(valve job is the MOST critical part of head flow)
in the block: get the cyls checked for wear, taper, out of round, and perpendicular to the mains; main bores for out of round and alignment; make sure the deck is perpendicular to the mains and flat
its surprising how much this stuff can be off on a factory engine, and it can add up.
ex: if the mains are out of alignment, this increases the friction on the crankshaft....robbing power(ive seen line-honing the mains pick up 7hp on a 600hp engine). the same with the cam bores, except there are 2 cams and more surface area to bind.
cyl bores not perpendicular to the mains put more load on one side of the mains and wrist pins than the other side along with possibly scuffing the side of the piston/ cyl walls. cyl out of round prevents optimal sealing of the cyls,
deck variation(head or block) increases the chances of blown head gaskets along with other things like not having the cam gears perpendicular to the timing belt
theres alot im leaving out because its mostly the tiny nit-picky stuff that only the TRULY serious(pro level) builders worry about, but also im sure theres plenty that im just overlooking
scenario: if you have the bottom end balanced, one of your cyls is not quite perpendicular to the mains, the that could potentially throw off the balance of the engine, because there is more friction in that one cyl........ALSO piston rings are round, if the bore is a little off of perpendicular, then the rings now have to seal an OVAL hole, because basically the piston is crooked in the cylinder.
yes i ramble, but hopefully at least some of this info helps someone.
in the head: get the valve guides checked for taper and wear; valve seals of course; cam bores for out of round and alignment; make sure the deck is flat; valve job cant hurt(valve job is the MOST critical part of head flow)
in the block: get the cyls checked for wear, taper, out of round, and perpendicular to the mains; main bores for out of round and alignment; make sure the deck is perpendicular to the mains and flat
its surprising how much this stuff can be off on a factory engine, and it can add up.
ex: if the mains are out of alignment, this increases the friction on the crankshaft....robbing power(ive seen line-honing the mains pick up 7hp on a 600hp engine). the same with the cam bores, except there are 2 cams and more surface area to bind.
cyl bores not perpendicular to the mains put more load on one side of the mains and wrist pins than the other side along with possibly scuffing the side of the piston/ cyl walls. cyl out of round prevents optimal sealing of the cyls,
deck variation(head or block) increases the chances of blown head gaskets along with other things like not having the cam gears perpendicular to the timing belt
theres alot im leaving out because its mostly the tiny nit-picky stuff that only the TRULY serious(pro level) builders worry about, but also im sure theres plenty that im just overlooking
scenario: if you have the bottom end balanced, one of your cyls is not quite perpendicular to the mains, the that could potentially throw off the balance of the engine, because there is more friction in that one cyl........ALSO piston rings are round, if the bore is a little off of perpendicular, then the rings now have to seal an OVAL hole, because basically the piston is crooked in the cylinder.
yes i ramble, but hopefully at least some of this info helps someone.
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what kind of valve job would u recommend for good head flow?
should i get new valve seals, and valve guides since im ordering new parts from honda anyways? or should i wait until i bring the head to the machine shop to get checked out?
should i get new valve seals, and valve guides since im ordering new parts from honda anyways? or should i wait until i bring the head to the machine shop to get checked out?
LMA: Lost Motion Assemblies. In simplistic terms, when vtec is not engaged, the LMA's act as a spring to keep pressure on the vtec rocker arms. There are two LMAs per cylinder. Without LMA's, the rocker arms would bounce around and destroy the cams (and pretty much everything else in the head).
ps. why buy new injectors? are you going boost eventually?
ps. why buy new injectors? are you going boost eventually?
Last edited by kp; Jun 3, 2009 at 12:09 PM.
i dont like the peak and hold injectors in the h22a1, plus im not using the stock p13 ecu and resistor pack because i dont have one. im using a chipped p28 ecu because thats what i have so i gotta get non peak and hold aftermarket injectors.
YES
and you don't have to run saturated injectors with a p28. You have a resistor box so you can run your stock injectors. Just have them cleaned and balanced. Search Injector-Rehab and RC engineering.
and you don't have to run saturated injectors with a p28. You have a resistor box so you can run your stock injectors. Just have them cleaned and balanced. Search Injector-Rehab and RC engineering.
like i said above. i dont have a resistor pack, and im not planning on getting one.
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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