Hi guys, im thinking about buying a Skunk2 intake manifold, but i really wanted to know if its worth changing it in my car, or the stock manifold is more than enough for my setup?
Im not going to modify more than the following specs:

Tha same gos for the header, cause im thinking of buying a hytech replica tri-y header.

Car : 2000 EK4, completely converted to ek9:

-Motor b16b stroked to 1.8cc with itr crank, rods and itr pistons.
-EK9 OEM header
-Spoon 2 ayer gasket
-5 zigen n1 exhaust
-Top fuel intake
-Stock ecu

What im changing :
-Spoon camshafts
-Crome or power FC ecu.
-Skunk 2 manifold???

What do you think?.
Is the stock maniofold more than enough for the setup? or will be better to go the skuns 2 route?

Thanks in advance

 

The stock b16b manifold is what the skunk2 copys (with skunk2's 'improvements'), I don't know... is $200+ (USD) worth it to you for the possible 2~3hp gain?

I have the manifold and love it but I have a GSR and the B16b/B18c5 manifold won't fit on my car.


The exhaust header is a good idea. Try to find a non-replica header, it will last longer than a year.

 

Header will be more a gain then the intake manifold.

 

For sure, not going to waste money if i cant make any improvement or isnt necesary.
And in hte case of the headers, aint hytech tri-y replicas good?


Thanks

 

What are you building the car for?

I also have a CTR engine swap for my EK SiR, but I'm planning on boring the block to 84mm to gain the 1.8L displacement. I rather keep the CTR high rev than gain the 1.8L by the longer stroke and lose revs. I am also building this engine for road racing/autocross.

As for my username, I have another EK with a B20VTEC boosted for drag only

 

Why won't the replicas last more than a year?

 

x2

 

X3?

 

real header is welded by a 40 year old man in a shop in the united states whos reputation is at stake with every header. replica is welded by a 10 year old taiwanese boy who is being paid in rice, and has no idea what it actually isa that he is welding. could be an apparatus for a washer or dryer, could be an exhaust manifold for a honda civic, he doesnt care, just give him 50lbs of rice on friday.

 

LOL!!!!!

 

Do you participate in an endurance series?? If no,t dont worry about stroking the motor... This b16b block that you have, is it sleeved??? I hope you have a built, ported head that can make plenty of power up top if that is your plan... I'd say go for the torque, stroke that motor... You'll need the torque for exiting corners... With an ITR crank or LS crank, there are other factors that will influence your motor ability to rev than those cranks such as camshaft profiles, if the motor is blueprinted and balanced, etc...

 

Get a GSR crank and keep your nice CTR pistons and pretty good revs. With GSR rods you would get 12.73:1 compression with a 3 layer head gasket and you could always get a Cometic gasket to drop it a little.

Wide pistons can tilt and cause cylinder wall wear also. Plus a wider piston will be heavier and won't be as fast to rev as a little 81mm slug. There's a reason Honda chooses to use pretty small diameter pistons. The Type R pistons are coated also, right?

 

Um, OK, sure, whatever.

 

I am selling the CTR swap next week when I return from a business trip. Somebody crashed a 2000 yellow JDM ITR and I bought it before the dust settled. It has that lovely 4.78 final drive that I was going to go to eventually.

Headwork will be done probably by Portflow. The road course races aren't hours long but one of the tracks I will visit the most has some corners where the torque will come in handy. I also might race some tarmac rally stages but I don't know if I could live with the possibility of running my car into a tree at every turn