JDM H23 Intake manifold on F22A accord engine
This is for the CB7 guys out there who are interested in swapping out the Intake manifold form their Accord. The JDM H23 Non-Vtec Intake manifold is a direct bolt on and the vacum lines have to be a little extended because the stock accord (90-93) IM has them running parallel to each other. The H23 IM has them running perpendicular. The stock accord fuel rail, injectors, TB, EGR, TPS sensor, another sensor that I keep forgetting the name of (white sensor, looks like the letter "T") and intake can all be reused. {all are direct bolt on} What I noticed immediately was that the H23 IM sits lower from the plenum compared to the Accord IM. Firewall clearance is not an issue and I am using a Bisimoto IM heat shield gasket as well. Will post up pictures later. Not sure if a USDM and JDM H23 IM are the same so this is why I am posting this.
The H23A was VTEC. The only non VTEC H23s were the USDM and EDM H23A1s. Would be nice to know exactly what manifold this one is. It will help a lot of the people that have been asking about the H23 on F22A heads.
My understanding about F22A's was that the lower half (runners) were almost identical to the H23's, and only the H23's plenum was larger. That would make swapping the entire manifold next to pointless. Most F22A guys just swap the upper plenum right?
Also, I remember hearing that H23A guys use many H22 parts interchangeably, probably to include the H22 IM/Euro-R IM, which doesn't fit very easily to F22X/F23X's right?
When I bought the H23 IM from Hmotorsonline I was told it was from japan and they had no idea if it would fit on a USDM F22A4. It fit just fine but know I am upgrading to a H22 by the end of December 2009. Will be getting rid of F22A4 will all modificatons done to it. which include: H23 IM, Bisimoto IM heat sheild gasket, Ebay headers w/ paceheader plaqe welded on, Bisimoto head gasket (new not installed), Felpro oil an Gasket (new not installed) New bosch +4 plugs, bosch wires, new cap and rotor, engine never been opened or seen nitrous. will upload pictures soon of Accord. (currently building a Off road/All terrain CRX B20 all motor, posting today on honda Tech under CRX category title name: Off road CRX B20
When I bought the H23 IM from Hmotorsonline I was told it was from japan and they had no idea if it would fit on a USDM F22A4. It fit just fine but know I am upgrading to a H22 by the end of December 2009. Will be getting rid of F22A4 will all modificatons done to it. which include: H23 IM, Bisimoto IM heat sheild gasket, Ebay headers w/ paceheader plaqe welded on, Bisimoto head gasket (new not installed), Felpro oil an Gasket (new not installed) New bosch +4 plugs, bosch wires, new cap and rotor, engine never been opened or seen nitrous. will upload pictures soon of Accord. (currently building a Off road/All terrain CRX B20 all motor, posting today on honda Tech under CRX category title name: Off road CRX B20
bosch plugs..
Now that you are retrofitting that manifold you will also have to hook up the vacuum lines for the IABV's(Intake Air Butterfly Valves) without these operational you have practically eliminated the small gain you get from the new manifold....
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need
Last edited by unlimitedMIKE; Oct 8, 2009 at 05:19 PM. Reason: bosch plugs suck.......
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Now that you are retrofitting that manifold you will also have to hook up the vacuum lines for the IABV's(Intake Air Butterfly Valves) without these operational you have practically eliminated the small gain you get from the new manifold....
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need

H23 IM is prob the best bang for the buck mod on these motors. I threw the H23 plenum + TB on my 1st Accord's F22A6 + lower runners and it totally transformed the car, no tune. The added volume def. makes a positive difference everywhere in the rev range, and only gets better with a wilder cam. I have the JDM F22B DOHC IM on my car's F22A1, and it doesn't feel as wild.
-Mike
H23 IM is prob the best bang for the buck mod on these motors. I threw the H23 plenum + TB on my 1st Accord's F22A6 + lower runners and it totally transformed the car, no tune. The added volume def. makes a positive difference everywhere in the rev range, and only gets better with a wilder cam. I have the JDM F22B DOHC IM on my car's F22A1, and it doesn't feel as wild.
If anyone interested in my engine with all my mods and new parts that I have not installed yet please let me know and I will let it go for cheap. You can find some pictures on CB7tuner.com under: out w/ F22A4 in w/ H22....Will use NGK plugs on H22 thanks guys.
I know this forum is old but I recently put a h23 ITManifold on my F22a1... It seems to be reving super high at 2500 rpm sometimes 3000.. I replace the Gasket with the F22 gasket from felpro... I don't know what the possible problem could be.. I believe maybe some vacums lines are loose or not hooked up? Any help?
You need to look for vacuum leaks. Take a can of carb/throttle body cleaner and slowly spray it around all of the gasket surfaces (including the IAC & FIT if equipped) Then spray around all of the vacuum ports. If the RPMs drop when you spray a certain area that indicates that there is a leak there. Then that gasket, hose or O-ring should then be replaced.
You need to look for vacuum leaks. Take a can of carb/throttle body cleaner and slowly spray it around all of the gasket surfaces (including the IAC & FIT if equipped) Then spray around all of the vacuum ports. If the RPMs drop when you spray a certain area that indicates that there is a leak there. Then that gasket, hose or O-ring should then be replaced.
thanks ghostaccord, but I thought possibly it ws just my h23 intake so i took off. put my f22a1 intake back on and also change the harness to f22a1 and changed the ecu and tcu.. Not it IDLES like crazy... Going form 1000 to 5000 RPM... I felt like changing it back made everything worst =(
Now that you are retrofitting that manifold you will also have to hook up the vacuum lines for the IABV's(Intake Air Butterfly Valves) without these operational you have practically eliminated the small gain you get from the new manifold....
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need

Now that you are retrofitting that manifold you will also have to hook up the vacuum lines for the IABV's(Intake Air Butterfly Valves) without these operational you have practically eliminated the small gain you get from the new manifold.... Is there any pictures posted around here for the butterfly valve so I can properly reattach my h23IM to my f22A?
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need
please note if you already own an f22a6(the EX model) the manifold is about equally efficient, if not more so! the increased scavenging you will recieve from that larger plenum will be very little and really can only be taken advantage of with proper headwork to accompany it.
i retrofitted one to my F22 build, i would recommend taking your head to a machine shop and port matching the head and manifold(as well as a port and polish and valve job) - with a more aggressive cam and proper tuning, these engines can gain well over 50whp! and this has been proven numerous times... myself included.
-Mike
P.S. stick with NGK! they are designed to run with our vehicles.... and dont attempt to sell you 3 more prongs than you need

Quote:
thanks ghostaccord, but I thought possibly it ws just my h23 intake so i took off. put my f22a1 intake back on and also change the harness to f22a1 and changed the ecu and tcu.. Not it IDLES like crazy... Going form 1000 to 5000 RPM... I felt like changing it back made everything worst =(
Reply:
After installing the h23 mani a second time on my f22a1, having the same issue all along, I realized that the throttle cable was hung up on the throttle body bracket. This caused he tb to stay slightly open. I had to bend the little arm straight so the tb would not catch the cable. of course this was a 65mm tb meant for a b-series(bolts right up) and had to flip the cable arm on the tb anyway. Point is check to see it something holds the tb from shutting all the way
thanks ghostaccord, but I thought possibly it ws just my h23 intake so i took off. put my f22a1 intake back on and also change the harness to f22a1 and changed the ecu and tcu.. Not it IDLES like crazy... Going form 1000 to 5000 RPM... I felt like changing it back made everything worst =(
Reply:
After installing the h23 mani a second time on my f22a1, having the same issue all along, I realized that the throttle cable was hung up on the throttle body bracket. This caused he tb to stay slightly open. I had to bend the little arm straight so the tb would not catch the cable. of course this was a 65mm tb meant for a b-series(bolts right up) and had to flip the cable arm on the tb anyway. Point is check to see it something holds the tb from shutting all the way
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breakyadown_89
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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May 2, 2009 11:15 AM





