I recently had my 2000 accord dyno tuned and I would like to know if anyone has an idea what an F23 motor puts at the wheels completely stock so I see how much power I have gained.

 

This is just a guess but, I don't think many people dyno stock accords. The f23a1 puts out 150 hp and 150tq stock. That should be 125-130 at the wheels. So are you going to tell us your mods, and where did you set your Xover

Oo and welcome

 

I have an AEM cold air, custom mid pipe, Top Speed axel back, UR crank pully, and Apexi Vtec AFC. The reason why I wanted to know what the stock power at the wheels is because on the dyno my car only put 130 Hp and 133 torque, which dosn't seem like much, though my car feels a lot faster than it did when it was stock. I think that I would have had to have gained more than 5 at the wheels with the mods that I have.

 

the mid pipe probably isn't doing much now, you really need a header and full exhaust, preferably with 2.5 piping. So you are trying to tune an air filter and some pulleys.

 

He does have a full exhaust.

 

What I had tuned was the Air Fuel Controler, where some fuel was leaned out because my car was running too rich. My vtec engagment point was lowered because the motor was not operating properly above 4000 rpm when the cam was not on the vtec configuration. On my first run on the dyno when the vtec engagment was set at the default of 5800 rpm of the VAFC, my engine could not go higher than 4000 rpm. After 8 runs the person tuning the car said that there wasn't a whole lot more that could be changed to increase the output. I want to know if there is a problem with the settings that were changed in the VAFC, which is causing my car to have only 130 @ the wheels. Since that was the first time I had my car on the dyno, I have no idea what my car's hp and torque was at before the ecu changes in fuel and vtec settings.

 

that's not all that bad really, if you take a 20% loss at the wheels, you are talking 120 hp and a 10 hp gain for freeing up the airflow...you will see slight gains if you get a header and full exhaust from the cat all the way back, but don't expect mirracles...as for vtec engagement, i'd stick with 4500 rpm's...good luck...

 

is your car auto or manual?

 

disconnect your vafc and hook reconnect the factory ecu up to..itself.. ( if you used quick connect like me this takes 4mins or so. ) do this while on the dyno and see if you make more power with out the vafc if so this should tell you that 5800 is too high, try something under 4000.

 

It's auto, though how much of a difference dose it make for power at the wheels compaired to a manual?

 

5HP difference at the crank... I think......

I have a F23A1 as well.

I am thinking... Is it really worth it spending a couple grand to gain 20HP?

My laser with a couple grand would be easily in the 13s......

So I wonder...

 

SCC dynod a stock 5-speed at like 127hp. auto should be about 122 - 125 based on that number

VTEC on the F23 engages between 2300 and 3500 depending on throttle position and manifold pressure. VAFC won't go that low. let the Stock ECU control VTEC, you can't do any better than the factory did, unless you have a new cam. VTEC on the F23 is all about fuel mileage and emissions

 

What's wrong with changing the vtec settings on the F23? The dyno showed a 20 hp at the wheels jump between 3800 and 4000 rpm. That would just allow me to reach higher hp sooner. Would that change hurt the max power?

 

No...its the same cam just at a different time. With the VAFC, just dial in more fuel to go with the additional air and you'll get more power everytime at a lower rpm.

 

that 20 hp jump was your engine gasping for breath because VTEC wasn't engaged when it should be. it was literally suffocating. as soon as VTEC engaged you opened up the intake and got enough air to make the power you should be.

$100 says your dyno had this giant spike up right when vtec engaged. looks like a heart attack.

the disadvantage is that you aren't making ANY power at all between about 2600 and whenever vtec engages. all your low end is gone, and some chump in a civic dx auto just walked you off the line.

 

auto's lose about 20-22% of power while manuals lose only about 15% from the crank to the wheels

 

How low should the vtec be set to because when my car was on the dyno the vtec was set at 3800? Should it be lower than that? That's strange because the orginal point was around 5000 rpm. Should I lower it down to 3500 or more?

 

I got the best result with my VAFC at 3100 with a turbo.

My brothers 97 NA prelude also had the same result, lowering the VTEC gets you more power earlier in the rpm band.

Just make sure they put more fuel at the lower rpms to compensate (Im assuming the dyno has a wideband O2 probe to give you a/f ratios)

 

i made 143hp and 141tq with AEM CAI, DC headers, custom exhaust, VAFC

VTEC was set at 3200. the guy that did your tuning doesnt sound like he knows what he was doing