I posted a few weeks ago about some issues I was having with my hatch with a d16z6 swap. I bought the car thinking I could fix the water pump and be good, but it has been one problem after another. As of right now the car is idling ok after setting mechanical timing and ign timing, basically when I go to drive the car starting out it boggs down no matter what rpm I start it at and when driving it lacks power and doesnt want to go anywhere. Since I have not completed a swap in the past I could use some help on how some things are done on this car.

First pic, it is labeled map senso and it is chillin on the firewall, I want to make sure this is ok?


Second pic, it a sensor from what the guy told me it was from a LS and said it was a map sensor, if this is true I am confused on why there are two?


Third pic, The sensor is secured by a single ziptie on the intake. What do you all think of the condition?


Mods to the motor,
d16zc(told same as the z6)
P28 auto converted to manual
Y8 IM
Ls Throttle body
Ls map Sensor?

I have replaced plugs, wires, cat, headgasket(one on there was leaking), headstuds with arp, Have a new fuel filter coming tomorrow.

Tested the injectors they are all reading 12ohms and the fuel pump is getting 12 volts and functional. I am at a loss for the car as far as what it could be, It is not throwing any codes.

Help please, just got the car and I am frustrated as hell at it

 

There are ALOT of things that it could be. Check your spark at each wire, then test map sensor voltage to see what kind of vacuum you are making. Make sure all your filters are good. Post your findings.

 

So I checked voltage to both of the sensors pictured and they are at 5volts when ign is on, I have not checked the voltage while engine is running yet. I also checked the resistence for the ign coil on the dizzy and I am reading 1.8ohms between the black/yellow and blue wire. If I am not mistaken this should not exceed .8ohms. Could the ign coil cause the problems I am having? I will check Idling voltage for the map in a little while and post those results.

 

If the resistance is out of spec, then yes, it will cause problems.

 

Thanks for the help, Also at 800to 1200 RPMs my map is reading 1.4 to 1.5 volts.

 

fuel filter being clogged would have the same bogging effect. its also the most overlooked

 

There isn't two, he is wrong. That is the Air Intake Temp (AIT) sensor.

 

Is a vacuum line attached to the MAP sensor?

The MAP sensor is supposed to be mounted to the throttle body hmmm....

 

preludes and accords have the map sensor on the fire wall with a hose running to the throttle body.

so i wonder what throttle body he is using.. (not saying prelude accord TB since i know it wont fit).

have a picture of the throttle body by chance to see where that hose is running from like mcvtec said?

 

Actually D, B, H and F TB's are interchangeable. So its a possibility.

OP: take some more pics.

 

'92-'95 DX has an external MAP too, but he said he has an LS throttle body which has it's MAP mounted to it.

Strange.

 

Fuel filter will be on tomorrow.

Pic as requested,

 

Your vacuum looks to be a little low. It should be around a volt at idle. Replace the PCV or pinch the hose close to test it. Check the clamps on the ends of all the vacuum hoses. In your most recent pic, the clamp is not on the TB end of the EVAP vacuum line. Even better is to replace them all with screw-on hose clamps.

 

Hmm. That's not an LS TB. The map that you have should be mounted to the throttle body, but the one you have is setup to run an external. Have you checked out all the grounds? Couldn't hurt.

 

IIRC the DA LS throttle body has an external MAP...

 

the first pic is a map sensor...but i believe most map sensors are mounted on the throttle body..but if the sensor has a nipple with a vaccum hose connected to it then thats the older style map sensors.....the second pic with the white plug on the intake should be the intake air temp sensor,and it looks pretty hurt....

OOPS...you guys beat me to it!

 

For all I know I got lied to about the throttle body, I will have to check my grounds. I will also change the pcv valve I will get one when I pick up my fuel filter. I will be posting another pic with the intake mani and some lines that are capped off. Also since the resistence is off from the ignition coil I will have to replace that as well.

 

Here is another pic of the intake manifold I want to make sure it is ok to have the lines capped that are.

 

BTW I appreciate everyones help

 

Sometimes bogging can be due to a clogged cat. Just throwing that out there. I know it doesn't happen often but it's happened to me before.

 

I replaced the cat it was bad and would get cherry red, it was a egay one. I also have a test pipe and it boggs with the test pipe the same as the new cat I bought for it.

 

Ah. Yes you are probably right. I've never messed with any DA's. Just speaking from experience with b1's and c1's.

I would say just do your maintenance work and see what that gets you. If the are no CEL's as you say its very possible its just a maintenance thing. Does the CEL come on when you turn the key? Is it possible you have a burned out or pulled bulb?

 

The CEL does work.

Once I change the fuel filter and the pcv valve I will post the results.

 

Looks like it's sitting on top of the alternator.

 

There are two pcv valves, one on the motor then to a hose that goes to the second one you can see in the pic, then from there to the IM.