alright boys and girls, my pastor's crv motor just recently seized due to the lack of oil going to the head. i don't know the whole story behind it but i do know that they said the head is a goner. my big question is, is the block shot or is it fine? i can pick it up for free but i don't want to waste my time if the block is shot. would there be shops that can check if the block is functional or not? thanks.

 

get it if its free.. just check everything make sure the crank and journals are good.. if you need to, take it to a shop and have the test the block

 

when you say "journals" which part is that?

 

on the crank.. theres main journals and rod journals.. thats where the bearing rides

 

how do i tell if it's bad or good? a picture would help. (i'm a visual guy)

 

its hard to explain
if you take the pan off and the main caps off the bottom of the block take the crank out and look at the crank and its journals if their scored or have deep grooves in em then its probably bad.. but mostlikly it wont be terriable.. you can never tell with out getting into it if its bad or not

 

okay, i somewhat understand it. is it something like this http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/p...odjournals.jpg

 

here's more http://i44.tinypic.com/w6rssm.jpg

 

bump? anymore check ups?

 

1st pic i cant see
2nd is a bad journal.. you can how ever have it fixed at a machine shop

 

okay. is there anything else i should be looking for? (btw, the pic above is just examples) or i should be fine?

 

Deep scoring on the cylinder walls. But, you can always overbore or sleeve it.

 

If the walls have deep scoring, I would suggest sleeves, as the walls are thin anyways.
prototype2 I would just check to make sure isn't any deep scoring, and if you aren't sure, just take it to a shop torn apart and have them check.
You should rebuild the bottom end since your checking it.

 

If there is no oil going to the head then the block should be fine. It takes about 30 minutes to check the main and rod journals. Be sure to check the motor side as well. If the cylinder walls are scored(bad), and it needs a line-bore(bad scoring in the journal), and you don't have the money to sleeve it, expect one of the these options:
Journals Good:
1. you re-build(with a simple hone) and wear rings super fast not to mention blow-by
2. re-build (with a bore) and crack a cylinder wall

Journals bad too:
1. end up spending as much as you would on a nice sleeved block with no more power or torque.
2. burn up bearings like crazy if you don't line-bore
If the cylinder walls are good and it doesn't need a line-bore, then I'd take it in a heartbeat. Hope this helps! GL.

 

god didnt help with this motor 666 haha

 

thanks vtecjunkie. i'll check it out. really excited about.