94 hatch - 90 b16a 81.5mm. wiseco 9.5-1 pistons,hasting rings,eagle rods,acl bearings,skunk 2 black nitrade flat valves,new oem valve seals,bronze valve guides,brian crower dual valve springs w/titanium retainers,obd1 gsr cams,270cc rc injectors,blox intake manifold,lovefab stainless exhaust turbo manifold,holstet hc1 turbo with rebuild kit,turbonetics deltagate mark II wastegate, really fng big intercooler,all charge piping,blitz type r blow off valve, and a dc2 tranny.

As mentioned in the title. The engine was put in, the ecu is a p28 that is not chipped yet. For some reason when the car sits for a while it begins to start idling around 3700. Eventually it begins to start overheating as well. I can not tell which is causing the other or if they are even correlated with one another. The car idles when I am on the clutch. If I lift up on the gas pedal, the car stops idling so high and just shuts the car off. If I am moving at a constant speed, the car does not overheat at all. If anyone can offer any help at all, it would be great. No CEL at all.

 

Your fast idle valve is for warming up the engine. It increases rpm when the coolant is below operating temp. If either the valve or your coolant system isnt working properly, it can stay open and cause a high idle. On NA engines you would warm up the car, take off the filter side of the intake from the TB and place a finger over the FITV hole to check for suction. I'm not sure the best way to check it with turbo. If the FITV is staying open and your engine is overheating, that points to a problem with the coolant system. The valve won't close unless hot liquid is flowing through. Air trapped in the coolant system can prevent coolant from flowing through the FITV and cause overheating problems. I'd start off with a new radiator cap.

 

bump

 

any other input?

 

bump

 

is your throttle cable too tight? (high idle problem)

next time it over heats check the rad hoses.

if one is hot and one is cold then the the thermostat is stuck closed.

if the hoses are fine, make sure your fan is kicking on.

 

bump

 

It would help if you would update by mentioning whether you have tested the ideas that others have already posted.

Does the radiator fan run when the engine is hot?

 

I was hoping to get as much input as possible before I went about messing with anything. That is the reason why I was awaiting more input.

 

You'll get better feedback by testing some of the good ideas already given and then posting the results.

 

check the throttle cable and make sure there isn't a bubble in the coolant system

 

thats very true.

i gave you a couple good things to check for both issues.

for overheating the first two things you would check are radiator fan working or thermostat stuck.

if those are both fine, then you could be looking at a Headgasket ,or some other cooling system blockage.

 

I checked the hoses, and the fan, the car ran for 20 minutes, I drove the car through town once. The car did not overheat, but the top hose was warm, and the bottom hose was ice cold. The fan did not turn on the entire time.

However, I noticed a ton of oil all over the transmission. It is coming out from in between the block and head underneath the front corner of the motor underneath the distributor. What could this be now?

 

if after 20 mins + driving the bottom hose is still cold, then your thermostat is stuck, buy a new one and replace it.

the oil is probably from the vtec solenoid or distributor o ring.

your best bet is to do this.

buy the following.

thermostat
coolant
valve cover gasket
vtec solenoid gasket
dizzy o ring
i think if you are dual cam there are o rings on the cam caps??? im not sure, never dealt with a b16, but if there are, pick those up too.


now, take a day off work or whatever it is you do, and replace those things and feel better about doing some needed maintenance(or preventative maint)