Broken CV Boot - Please help!
I start changing the oil on her 1994 Accord Ex this weekend, and as I loosen the drainplug I see that the inside of the driver side wheel is completely covered in grease. The boot is snapped in half. Fortunately, no clicking or any other sounds from the wheel, so I assume the bearing and hub are still okay.
I will be getting the CV Boot replacement kit from the dealer tomorrow. Could someone please give me some pointers, or if possible a step by step on how to get this fixed? She just lost her job, and I need to get it done this week since she has to start going to interviews and look for work.
Thanks in advance for the help!
I will be getting the CV Boot replacement kit from the dealer tomorrow. Could someone please give me some pointers, or if possible a step by step on how to get this fixed? She just lost her job, and I need to get it done this week since she has to start going to interviews and look for work.
Thanks in advance for the help!
I might be wrong but I believe it's a lot easier to just change the whole CV joint. You can pick them up at any junk yard for pretty cheap (refurbished ones) and that way all you do is take out the bad CV joint and replace it with the new one (instead of taking out the bad one, fixing it and putting it back in). Seems easier/quicker to just do it that way.
You can buy a new (rebuilt) axle shaft for $75 Lots of times once the boot is broken they get contaminated . Plus it is not worth the trouble just swap it out . Thats my 2c good luck
Sweet - I'll make calls about it tomorrow.
Any pointers/instructions on how to replace the axle? Her car is an Automatic, if that makes any difference.
Any pointers/instructions on how to replace the axle? Her car is an Automatic, if that makes any difference.
You gots any tools? Or a friend
you need a 36 mm Socket to breal the nut for the axle this will be the hardest part if you dont have an air compressor then you need some pliers ,14mm ,and a 17 mm sockets Oh yeah a 19 mm for the wheel it is a pretty easy job about a 2 rating . you will need a small prybar to pop the axle out
HTH
you need a 36 mm Socket to breal the nut for the axle this will be the hardest part if you dont have an air compressor then you need some pliers ,14mm ,and a 17 mm sockets Oh yeah a 19 mm for the wheel it is a pretty easy job about a 2 rating . you will need a small prybar to pop the axle out
HTH
I have the right tools, but unfortunately no air compressor. Would a breaker bar about 3' long work? That's what I used to take take the hub off the axle on my civic.
How do I disconnect the shaft from where it enters the tranny/engine? Also, what will I have to pry it out of - the tranny or the hub?
How do I disconnect the shaft from where it enters the tranny/engine? Also, what will I have to pry it out of - the tranny or the hub?
You can do it with out a compressor . Break loose the 36mm axle bolt before you jack up the car. The axle pops out of the tranny that is why you need a small pry bar or very big screwdriver. you might need to jump on the ratchet to break the nut loose or put a 2 ft extention (pipe) on the ratchet handle
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There is a little retainerclip that is built into the axle that keeps it in the tranny.
that is why you have to pry to pop it out once you get it pryed out just a little it will slide right out . Then when you install the new axle you can usually just press hard to get it to pop into the tranny
that is why you have to pry to pop it out once you get it pryed out just a little it will slide right out . Then when you install the new axle you can usually just press hard to get it to pop into the tranny
yeah I paid 40 bucks for my axle, with a 75 dollar core charge. have a bucket handy, you'll lose tranny fluid when you pull the axle. you have to pull the little bit of metal (like a cotter pin, same function) away on the hub before you try to loosen it, or else it will just rotate the whole assembly. haha the most annoying part was getting the damn swaybar bushings back into place. found out those need replacing too. bag, next week......
Yeah I forgot that part you need to buy a $10 balljoint spliter from auto parts store. my bad
Yeah but if you mes up that bolt and mushroom it you cant get the 17mm nut back on. I have messed up a few that way . Not worth the chance if you ask me
I think i'll play it safe and just rent the balljoint tool from Kragen. That's what I used to remove the balljoint on the civic.
Will I lose a significant amount of tranny fluid? Should I get some to drain and replace just in case?
THanks for the help guys, I will get started on this tomorrow. At least she doesn't have to go to work on it (yet) so I have a couple of days to get it done.
Will I lose a significant amount of tranny fluid? Should I get some to drain and replace just in case?
THanks for the help guys, I will get started on this tomorrow. At least she doesn't have to go to work on it (yet) so I have a couple of days to get it done.
I think i'll play it safe and just rent the balljoint tool from Kragen. That's what I used to remove the balljoint on the civic.
Will I lose a significant amount of tranny fluid? Should I get some to drain and replace just in case?
THanks for the help guys, I will get started on this tomorrow. At least she doesn't have to go to work on it (yet) so I have a couple of days to get it done.
Will I lose a significant amount of tranny fluid? Should I get some to drain and replace just in case?
THanks for the help guys, I will get started on this tomorrow. At least she doesn't have to go to work on it (yet) so I have a couple of days to get it done.
Forgot another question: where is the jack-up point on the front of the Accord? I need to raise the driver side high enough to put a jackstand under it. On a civic, there is a metal point on the bottom right under the engine, where I can put the jack and raise the whole front end, while leaving the side jack points empty so I can slide in jackstands. I looked under the Accord, and there wasn't anything like that. Any ideas?
Can you give me a little more direction on popping out the axle? What kind of pry bar do I need? And where would I have to 'grip' it, and what to pry it against? Never done it before, so I am a bit baffled.
Just need a nice thin edged prybar (I use a tile bar)... gently wedge it between the transaxel (or halfshaft/intermediate if on drivers side) and she pops right out! Just make sure that the snapring is still on the end of the old shaft... if not you gotta find it in there.
I never get any leakage on the driverside (not sure if this is normal.. only accord ive worked on), but the passenger will let tranny fluid go.
one tip i have is to get the axel back into the hub: lightly lube it and tap the 36mm lightly with a hammer. this gets the axel back through the hub easily for me and then out enough to thread on the axel nut. you really gotta crank this SOB down.. 157 ft. lbs if i remember right so have a good torque wrench!
after you're done ...
I rate this a
job .. okay im a nerd.
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 7:52 PM 8/19/2002]
I never get any leakage on the driverside (not sure if this is normal.. only accord ive worked on), but the passenger will let tranny fluid go.
one tip i have is to get the axel back into the hub: lightly lube it and tap the 36mm lightly with a hammer. this gets the axel back through the hub easily for me and then out enough to thread on the axel nut. you really gotta crank this SOB down.. 157 ft. lbs if i remember right so have a good torque wrench!
after you're done ...
I rate this a
job .. okay im a nerd.[Modified by GimpyAccord, 7:52 PM 8/19/2002]
Does it make any difference that the car is an Automatic, or does the axle pop out of the tranny the same way on Manual and Auto?
Also, I jsut got off the phone with Kragen, a refurbished axle is $80 as long as I bring in the old one for an exchange. Thanks for the tips guys!
Also, I jsut got off the phone with Kragen, a refurbished axle is $80 as long as I bring in the old one for an exchange. Thanks for the tips guys!
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