My engine light doesn't come on when the key is in the ON position before starting.

When I go crank it blows the 40amp ING fuse in the engine bay.

After the swap (auto to manual B16a1 into 1999 civic DX with a EX manual EWH) the car never started over cranking it with the key. So had to use a manual method which worked.

For the past two weeks the car has been running fine minus the part where I've been having to start the car up manually by jumping the starter with a push switch. Like shown in the video instead of the loop I would put a switch in there and run it to the inside of the car and start it that way with the key in the ON position.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIlwKOXmTFU

So now all of a sudden the battery died out on me. And seems like there is a full circuit somewhere in the car or EWH. Because when I used the multimeter to check for closed and open circuit. I touched the + - and there was a closed circuit when there shouldn't be one. I pulled the horn fuse and the circuit from the + - terminals were no longer there. I thought that was my problem.

When I went to hook everything up, and tried starting it with the key the 40amp ING fuse blew. Put in another one and pushed the start switch and when I did that the SRS, Seat belt, handbrake light comes on the speedo and stays on which I think is what has been using the battery.

I do not know where to start, what you guys think might be the cause? Any input would be helpful.

Thanks

 

I think you may have a bad ignition switch:

 

Will be checking the bad ignition switch.

Thanks.

I checked the EWH for continuity, and it doesn't seem to be in the EWH. So I can eliminate that.

 

So I checked the ignition switch for continuity and it looks like it all checks in.

I mean when I do all the connections the meter should make the beeping noise correct, which means there is a full circuit?


I was reading on another forum and a member stated that "i had the same problem with my 98 civic. its a couple of wires under the intake manifold. its kinda hard to see but with a flash light, look under there and it should be a blue harness. take out the negative from the battery first, wrap that around with electric tape. it is also
kinda hard to get in there. the reason why you are getting crazy speedometer, pulsing lights and cel is because it is short circuiting"

So I'm going to be doing this as the last time I was driving before the car wouldn't start the speedo used to insane as well.

Anyone shade some light other then that?

Thanks

 

It might beep but the connection could still not be good enough to support the required current. That's why it's best if you measure voltage drop or resistance.

 

To measure both of those I would need to have the battery hooked up correct?

But if I go to crank it the ING fuse will blow. What if just jump the fuse with a 18gauge wire?

And measure voltage drop or resistance.

 

Don't ever jump a fuse. You risk causing a car fire and burning up the wiring.

Does the 40A fuse only blow when the key is turned to ON(III) (=start)? If so, do the gauge lights illuminate when the key is turned to ON(II)?

 

Ok!!

Well good thing I didn't do anything like that.

Hey Ron J, I did that test and it seems like the continuity is there.

Any other ideas like main relay?

 

Can you answer the questions in my previous post above?

 

Yes it only blows when the key is turned to the ON(III) start.

The gauge lights do illuminate when the key is in the ON(II) but if i go to ON(III) blow the fuse then back to ON(II) then the lights don't come back on. Need to put a new fuse in.

Umm the CEL light doesn't come on fully in positions ON(II) or ON(III), but it's very dim from what I can see.

 

Does 7.5A fuse 31 under the dash also blow?

 

If fuse 31 is fine, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire bolted to the starter solenoid. Turn the key to ON(III) to check whether disconnection of this wire prevents the 40A fuse from blowing.

 

The fuse 31 is fine, every time the ING fuse goes. To now that 31 fuse is still good.

Okai I shall check, what would be my next step if it does or doesn't blow?

 

Figure out what disconnecting the wire does and we'll go from there.

Below is the relevant circuit where you have a short. You are currently checking whether the short is in the starter solenoid. If not, you want to check the starter cut relay and all wires in the circuit upstream of fuse 31.

 

Took the BLK/WHT bolt off and turned to ON(III) and back to ON(II), and the ING fuse did NOT blow.

The fuse is still strong checked both sides it's getting a constant 12V.

Whats the next step?

Thanks Ron

 

Remove the starter and have it checked at your local auto parts store. It likely has a short and needs to be replaced.

 

Just tested the 31 fuse while in ON(II) and ON(III), at that position the reading for the starter signal; which is fuse 31 is roughly 8-9V.

I also noted that the CEL is back on and the fuel pump is priming in position ON(II).

And according to the circuit diagram the car was a AT so I would be thinking there is a short in the BLK/RED wire along the line or the main relay would be the cause. Is that a good assumption?

I'll also check BLU/WHT wire from the ECM.

I'll be changing the starter motor because I have another one that I know for a definite fact works.

 

With key in ON(III), what voltage do you measure at the disconnected starter solenoid wire to body ground? Is it also 8-9V?

 

No it's a constant 12V.

Got the old starter out putting in the new one now!!

Shall I just hook it up like normal with the new starter and crank it? Or anything I should do prior to that?

 

For the voltage measurement at fuse 31, are you removing the fuse and measuring voltage from the ignition switch-side terminal in the fuse box?

 

Disconnect the battery, hook up the starter wires, rehook the battery, and fire it up.

 

When I tested the fuse 31, I didn't remove the fuse from the terminal. Rather tested it with the fuse in and on the sides of 7 and 5 where there is a piece of metal showing.

The multi meter ground prong to a ground and + to the metal showing.

Seen the picture:

 

Changed the starter hooked up all the wires, and went to fire it up and the fuse blew.

Back to the same thing. The only thing I'm left with is replacing or checking the Main Relay and the ECM. I'll try hooking up the auto ECM to see if it makes a difference.

Can the Main relay be the cause? Because sometimes when I'm in ON(II) the fuel primes and sometimes it doesn't. Can it also be the fuel pump relay?

How would I go about testing those?

 

If anything downstream of fuse 31 had a short, then fuse 31 would blow. Focus your efforts upstream of fuse 31.

 

When you mean upstream does that mean towards the Ignition switch? Or towards the starter?

Would I look for anything thats shorting it, cut wires, etc?

Also fuel primes sometimes and doesn't other times.