Alright i am stumped, maybe someone can lend some insight.
This is a Sohc Zc btw

-freshly rebuilt head
-MLS HG
-#1 is at TDC on the comp. stroke
-ALL timing marks line up perfect!
-dizzy rotor is pointing at #1
-compression test results are normal

Symptoms-

The motor barely runs, i have to feather the gas to keep it alive and it makes alot of strange vaccuum sounds and sometimes pops through the intake. this leads me to believe its a severe vaccuum leak. If i didnt know better id be sure it is a cam timing issue but ive checked, checked and re-checked it. I have been at it for days and cant find anything too out of the ordinary.

 

your timming is wrong thats why it back fires how are you lining up your timming marks

 

Exactly as described in helmes.

piston #1 is at TDC.

both sets of valves on #1 are closed.

dizzy rotor is aimed at #1.

single mark on crank pulley is lined up.

single, downward facing mark on cam gear is lined up.

Im not sure if it matters but i removed the stock PCV system during this build.

 

I thought all the SOHC's had the 2 marks that line up with the valve cover mating surface?

 

Those marks are there and line up, but there is also the downward facing one that is more precise.

 

this is how tdc is supposed to be set up. and you KNOW when it is cause you can take a coat hanger and put it into the spark plug #1 hole and turn the crank with a 17mm socket/wratchet and you should only have like .5 to1mm of travel distance when it is at TDC

 

and this picture is pretty self explaining

 

What position should the valves on Cyl. #1 be in when the piston is at TDC? fully closed correct?

 

dosent matter because if im not mistaken, by the time the mark on the cam is facing down, the exhaust valves are opening and when its back at the top, the intakes open. just follow that somewhat shitty diagram i drew(lol ms paint) and you should be good, but check your vaccume lines and anything else that may be of concern

 

My issues must lie elsewhere then because my timing is spot on.

i cant even get the car to idle so i can put a timing light on it.

anymore input?

 

your dizzy at the correct advancement/retard? what about the fitv? iacv? idle air screw? are you for CERTAIN that the fuel pump is working? have a friend spray some gas or starting fluid in the throttle body whaile you try to start the car. if it starts thats your problem. if you know all your vaccume lines are correct and timings on, make sure your dizzy has spark and then check over all of the other things i mentioned....

 

Fuel pump primes, everything works as normal. i get a CEL for IACV but only when i feather the throttle and make the car run for more than 10 seconds, but im assuming thats because i have not yet bled the cooling system(how can i when the car wont idle) since i havent had trouble with it before.

 

Just a thought... set cyl #1 to TDC and pull the distributor cap, where is the rotor pointing?

 

Bottom left if im facing the dizzy... #1 if im not mistaken.

 

Compression test results- 185 180 165 185

are these good enough to rule out a HG sealing issue?

or is a leakdown test required?

 

x2. its been years since iv had a single cam so could be wrong

 

Someone suggested that it may be bad gas since the car sat with the fuel line detached( my fuel tank vent is also open to the atmosphere).

Does anyone have any insight on bad fuel symptoms?

 

Why was the headgasket replaced? Was it overheated?

Bent valve?

If you double and triple checked timing and have spark and fuel then it has to be a compression problem. Do a leakdown test.

 

bottom left would be number two your firing order is wrong

 

This is my firing order.

 

Valves are all new. the head is completely re-built.

The motor was *slightly* overheated(between middle and red), but i checked for warpage with a straight edge and it was perfect.

If my problem was a warped block, wouldnt the compression numbers suffer?