I'm using the Qsd kit with Hasport billet mounts. Motor is now in the car
balance shaft bell is still on, I just took off the belt.

Problems:
Hood won't close all the way like people say it would in an Ek.
Stock intake manifold is way too high.
Shaven crank pulley is hitting driver side.

Questions:
1. How do I get the hood to close all the way? It seems the map sensor and the oil cap is hitting the hood. Do I cut a bit off the inside of the hood to get it to clear?
I also took off the IAB spacer between the manifold. Is this a possible solution?

2. Should I take off the balance shaft gear between the gear that holds the timing belt and the crank pulley? Its the gear/spacer that holds the balance shaft belt. If I do this it will definitely give the crank pulley plenty of clearance on the sides but will it cause any kind of problems?

 

Okay update.. I went to check for clearances again and I took off the spacer that goes between the manifold for the IAB valves. So the manifold is actually shorter now which means more clearance..
I also took off the map sensor just to try and see if that was the problem for the hood closing.. it wasn't.
Turns out that it is the valve cover that is keeping my hood from closing.. interesting.

Still need suggestions please!

 

its not that hard just put washers under the mounts to move the engine down

 

okay I get it now.. I know what your saying.. if you put big spacers under neat the bracket mounts where the mounts go, then it will actually push the motor down or drop it.. thanks!!
now the hard part is to take off each mount and insert those spacers!

 

bump need help on crank pulley question!

 

OHhhhhh BILLLLLLLY HELP ME!

 

im not sure on the EK's, but everyone else has to remove the balance shaft belt & GEAR. then move the crank pulley inward. that is how the C pulley clears the frame rail.

as for your hood, i would cut the webbing where its hitting and see how that does. then i would rather space my hood up a little before spacing my whole engine down... one of the points of the qsd h2b kit is to keep the drive train in its original location.
also,
could try to find a different oil cap, there is a smaller pcv valve available through Evolution.

 

I actually removed the balance shaft gear. The one thats between the crank belt gear and the crank pulley. I was able to push my crank pulley inside and it cleared the sides. But my main concern is the fact that I removed the gear/spacer inbetween the belt and the pulley. Im scared the belt will move side to side and actually go on the crank pulley if you know what I mean.. Will it? I believe that the B series has a small spacer that separates the crank pulley from the crank belt gear.

 

bump

 

There is a thin washer that goes between the timing belt gear and the crank pulley. I got it off an f22 I believe. get a throttle body with a MAP sensor on the firewall.
Cut the hood like I did on my eg.
Also give your frame rail a few love taps with a mallot.

 

okay I went to a junkyard today and got a seperate throttle body off of an older prelude and took the map sensor as well that connects by a hose..

So just get a washer from an f22a? I can just go to honda for that right?

 

#19 on this picture. off a 95 accord motor. I think I had to cut a small groove for the crank pulley key to fit in there.

 

okay I see it.. thanks! hey another quick question.
Is the H series distributor firing order the same as the B series firing order? because the H series distributor is basically a flipped upside down distributor

 

its better to use 19 on the inside and flip 17 around oh and every firing order is the same 1342

 

really? sounds interesting.. so flip 17 and use 19 on the inside huh? I guess Ill be going to honda tomorrow.. I got the car starting today. Im running with just 17 and then the crank pulley after it.. My rev gauge seems to not work.. I dont understand why because I didnt touch the tps wiring or the map sensor wiring.. The only thing I wired were the obd1 injector plugs with a resistor box, converted the internal obd1 h22 distributor plugs, changed the oil pressure switch, and extended the alternator wiring.

I am getting a code 4.. Is that the same as a B series code? crankshaft position sensor? I had my base map chipped by phearable.net and it shouldnt be looking for a cfk code..

 

yes

 

did you resolve the hood clearance without spacers on the hinges?

 

way to bring back a year old thread