96 accord ex f22b1

240,000 miles on engine

what is best oil to clean up engine sludge. i use penzoil platinum right now but it seems to get dark really quick

also i use 10w30 as apposed to 5w30

 

Just because it's dark doesn't mean it's bad.

Just stick to 5w30 and you're fine. If you're not having any issues why try to fix something that's not a problem?

 

When an oil gets dark, it means it is doing its job - removing impurities. If the oil was clean, it will not be doing anything.

 

i use royal purple everytime and love it i would suggest it to anyone. gets kinda spendy tho, at napa and other shops its 8 or 9 bucks a quart but one walmart carries it for 6-7 bucks

 

with that many miles I would recommend using conventional oil, just use Valvoline 5W30. If it burns oil go up in viscosity

 

Do you know that you have some sludge? If so, the dark oil signifies that it is dissolving the goop and cleaning the engine. I'd suggest whatever syn or syn blend is on sale, changed every 1 or 2 thousand miles. (IMO, syn does do a little better job of cleaning) Repeat until the car starts to run cleaner. This may take several K miles, or more. Don't forget to change the filter too. Sludge will increase the stress on your filter, so you should probably get something halfway decent. No low end Frams, or other $3 filters. Pop $6 for a Wix, PureOne, Bosch, or other solid mid-range can.

If you're just being preventative, any good oil will do. Penz Plat has legions of loyal followers on the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forum. It's inexpensive and will go 6K~8K miles in any healthy Accord without worry. (Unless you thrash the engine.)

FWIW, I'm very happy running M1 10W30 High Mileage. (92 accord) It has extra Zinc and moly additives and is a hair thicker than the average 10W30. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...duct_Guide.pdf

 

ill have to give that mobil 1 a try. thank you

 

I agree with all statements. What I personally did was replace ALL gaskets and seals and started using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. The only thing about synthetic that it will find the smallest leak. That's why I replaced all the gaskets. But like it was said before "Don't fix what ain't broken"

 

There's no reason to run synthetic in it.

Honestly if he has no issues, then there are most likely no issues. It's as simple as that. Why run different weights or different types when regular old dino oil works just fine? The Honda manual doesn't say "well after you pass 200k start using synthetic".

 

straight dino oil....all of you OMG JOOO HAZZ TO RUNZ SYNTHETIC guys show me one example where it saves you in the long run.......it dosent....... and running synthetic and changing oil every 3K = you're just plain dumb.........

$20 for mobil 1 5 qt
$10 for a filter

total $30 every 3K /100K miles = $1000 for oil changes over 100K miles

$15 for dino oil 5qt
$5 for a filter
Total $20 every 6K /100 miles = $333.3... for oil changes over 100K miles

The only engine I run synthetic oil in is my scooter and that has everything to do with the engine spending 95% of it's time at 8K+ on the tach and it being air cooled

 

i love mobil1 and castrol ... 5w30 is my weight of preference ... honestly i use full synthetic just for piece of mind even though it probably not worth it ... you don't need it in a stock/semi-modded honda

 

Huh???


Who said anything about mandatory 3K syn oil change intervals??

Did you even read the thread??

(FWIW, I've worked up to 10K between changes.)

 

I've been changing my Amsoil on my Accord at 15,000 miles for almost 10 years now.