Alright ill start off by telling you guys that I purchased this car with a blown head gasket

and did the work to replace it in my garage, also I brought the head for work at car quest

and they returned it with everything loose so i just tightened it down to torque specs

cd7, f22b1, vtec

new starter, new dizzy

all it likes to do is idle at basically 100 and bogs retardly

the dizzy rotor has the metal just loose and when the cars running it rattles

it never wants to start, i have to give it gas just to get it started

the manual timing is correct, i just gapped the spark plugs

tomorrow ill change all the liquids and get a new filter, cap rotor plugs, ill clean out the throttle body and see if i get any luck out of that.

this car is a daily driver so it needs to run right...

any other ideas of why this pos doesnt wanna run?

Funny thing is, my first accord had problems, but none this intense

Knowning this car had problems seeing i bought it with a blown headgasket for 400$

cash...so putting a little time and money was expected.

 

bump, cleaned the tb, new air filter, changed the liquids, ill do rotor and plugs today

 

And the starter?

 

what about the starter? its brand new

 

What distributor did you buy? Does the car keep running if you don't give it gas?

And have you looked into the Intake Air Control system yet? FITV, IACV, and idle speed screw adjustment? Any of these things or a combination of them can cause an improper idle.

Did you check the block to make sure it was true before you put the head back on?
Have you checked for coolant in the oil since you put the head back on?

 

the dizzy is an orig reman, i clean both iacv and fitv, the idle speed screw adjustment might be low just a little.

itll start cold but once i turn it off, its a bitch to get it running...it doesnt wanna stay on until after i drive it for a few minutes

 

the oil and coolant are good

 

If it idles when it's warm and doesn't when it's cold. That is a good indication that your fast idle thermal valve is not working properly. Do you still have your FITV connected? I think I remember an old thread that you stated that the coolant lines to the FITV where bypassed. Are the actual ports to and from the fast idle thermal valve into the throttle body blocked off completely as well? Or do you have the FITV operational on this engine?

 

that was my old accord, this one i just got...it idles good when it hasnt started in a while, but right after its been ran it doesnt wanna start but when it does and i get it going through gears itll go back to normal....this is why im under the impression one of my sensors is wack and is sending my ecu inproper info so its trying to compensate for one thing when really theres nothing wrong

 

If it's not your FIT valve then bleed your cooling system and get rid of any air bubbles. Once you have done that check for a bad ECT sensor.

 

my coolant has just been changed yesterday...i believe you are correct on the ect sensor being screwy, i looked up what it could cause and it sounds just like my dilema! so should i just go ahead and buy a new one or should i go about trying to test it

 

when you replaced the coolant did you make sure to open the bleed screw to bleed the system of any air bubbles?

I would try that first if you didn't already, then test the ECT. I think there is a procedure but I don't have my manual in front of me to check.

 

i have a haynes manual if thats what your talking about....also umm yeah the wing screw i took it out and let it bleed for a while, then when filling it, i waited until all the air bubbles came up so i could make sure it was FULL and not just seemed full

 

x2 on the bleed

Yes there is a test procedure.......PM sent.

Cheers

 

accord forums are the best, sorry for being a ***** in the last thread...it was late and i was getting impatient