95 gsr oil problem/coolant
okay so this is what i saw after i did my head gasket change, and had everything together when i took the valve cover off and the oil was milky. from what i read it says water/coolant mixed with the oil thats why its milky? i didn't drive the car at all just started it for probly 15 mins at most..is it possible it could be a cracked block/head or something thats what i saw somebody say too?...so what do you guys think the most likely problem it'll be? did i crack the block/head whatever..also b4 the head gasket change the oil was fine regular and all. let me know what yall think thanks! i just drained out my oil it was all milky....like coffee..
there are so many possibilities... when you changed the head gasket was the head resurfaced? was the deck on the block good? did you put the head gasket on correctly.. what did you torque it down too? was it proper sequence..
no i did not resurface. you only need to do that when it is warp..and i don't think mines was warp..idk if the deck on the block was good or not? how do you know if its bad?. and yes i did put the head gasket on properly. i torqued it down to 62lb i think it was..thats what they say the torque spec was for b18c1's a friend said that. and others say different as in higher.. but we did 62.
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no i did not resurface. you only need to do that when it is warp..and i don't think mines was warp..idk if the deck on the block was good or not? how do you know if its bad?. and yes i did put the head gasket on properly. i torqued it down to 62lb i think it was..thats what they say the torque spec was for b18c1's a friend said that. and others say different as in higher.. but we did 62.
9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
did you go in that order... right out of the VTEC section of service manual? its always good the check the deck of the block.. if the top of the block is not decked properly you can mix oil and coolant.. or blow head gaskets..
by you saying you "don't think" yours was warped, you already gave the answer.. i believe its supposed to be 63 ft lbs in two steps..
9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
did you go in that order... right out of the VTEC section of service manual? its always good the check the deck of the block.. if the top of the block is not decked properly you can mix oil and coolant.. or blow head gaskets..
9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
did you go in that order... right out of the VTEC section of service manual? its always good the check the deck of the block.. if the top of the block is not decked properly you can mix oil and coolant.. or blow head gaskets..
you're first clue was the headgasket failed on a gsr. personally i have never seen it happen without either A: boost B: a warped block C: warped head. the blocks are famous for warping over time. yet another clue would have been when you tore the engine down and found the source of your problem. if you just randomly put on a new HG without figuring out why the last one failed no one is going to feel sorry for you. what you did is waste time and money on another lesson in engine building.
you're first clue was the headgasket failed on a gsr. personally i have never seen it happen without either A: boost B: a warped block C: warped head. the blocks are famous for warping over time. yet another clue would have been when you tore the engine down and found the source of your problem. if you just randomly put on a new HG without figuring out why the last one failed no one is going to feel sorry for you. what you did is waste time and money on another lesson in engine building.
this thread haven't reallly helped me much at all. but to what i think is...that when i had the head off the oil/coolant mixed..because i saw oil outside in the cylinder walls..
it's very simple. you have a leak. what caused it can be found when you pull it apart. chances are you will have tracers between cylinders. if the gasket is still good you have a warped block or warped head. in most engines the head warps. on the b18c the deck often does. this means the engine comes out and you pay $50 to have a few thousands taken off the deck with an ultra fine RA diamond cutter so your MLS gasket seals right. if you pull .007 off both the head and deck you will have a total of .014 shaved which shouldn't cause any weird cam timing issues. just to correct it you could run a .039 HG and go right back to stock, or you could use the OEM gasket and gain compression. these MLS gaskets do not fail without a reason. warpage is the #1 cause. if you had a good pic of both sides of your HG, your block close up in the cylinders from the top and the head i could probably tell you what the problem is. so could a few of the other guys.
There can been many things that could've happenend that we don't know about...frankly I think that your car over heated, and caused your gasket to blow...then you replaced it, but for got to resurface....You must always resurface, and check your work with a stright edge....
it's very simple. you have a leak. what caused it can be found when you pull it apart. chances are you will have tracers between cylinders. if the gasket is still good you have a warped block or warped head. in most engines the head warps. on the b18c the deck often does. this means the engine comes out and you pay $50 to have a few thousands taken off the deck with an ultra fine RA diamond cutter so your MLS gasket seals right. if you pull .007 off both the head and deck you will have a total of .014 shaved which shouldn't cause any weird cam timing issues. just to correct it you could run a .039 HG and go right back to stock, or you could use the OEM gasket and gain compression. these MLS gaskets do not fail without a reason. warpage is the #1 cause. if you had a good pic of both sides of your HG, your block close up in the cylinders from the top and the head i could probably tell you what the problem is. so could a few of the other guys.


