Well i've had this done for a few weeks, but i didn't want to post up about it, since i hadn't driven it yet, but i drove it the last 2 days and found no issues.

i put the single row crank pulley from an S2000 on my H23VTEC build, but will fit any H engine, and i assume an F, but i can't say. But since i got this pulley for $25 and i only saw 1 post even referencing it on an H, i figured i'd give it a shot. cheaper then the euro R and only requires a little bit of work, worth it IMO.





so you can see, the F pulley is much smaller, and also sits closer to the block.


the F pulley has timing marks on it, and i assume you could work out a pointer if you wanted, in case you didn't have marks on your flywheel, but i don't know.

But since the pulley does sit closer to the block(0.15"), you either need to space the pulley out, or bring the alternator in. and since i thought that spacing the pulley out would lead to less meat on the crank, i left it there and decided to bring the alternator in. i shaved off 0.15" from both inboard sides of the mounting ears, and checked them with my calipers just to make sure they were decently square. i have to time and the patience to do this, but if i had extra money to kick around, i probably would have looked into getting it milled down, and it would have been more precise, and more square, but i've not noticed the belt looking like it is wearing more, so i think i'm OK.




tools used.


the belt used was a 35" 6 rib, unlike the 37 i think it was, used with the old pulley. And i did have to cut out the entire area of the pulley for the lower cover to go on, but it went on fine and the belt doesn't hit. and i know alot of people don't run them, but i think it cleans it up, and less chance of anything happening.

and i don't have any better pictures of mounting, but the lower ear mounts fine, but the upper ear requires a spacer. but i had a pleasant surprise when i got to the upper ear. there is actually a floating (bushing?) in there, so i only had to get it close with 4 washers, and then when i tightened down the bolt, the bushing pushed in on it and did fine. i'll get some better pictures in a couple days, but overall i'm very happy with this. with my old H22a pulley i would hit my radius rod on bumps, but now i took my suspension off and picked up the car without them until the UCAs bottomed out, meaning the car will never dip lower then that, and the pulley still didn't hit.

 

I don't understand why you would want to go with a smaller diameter crank pulley. Why do you think that the underdrive crank pulleys that you get from AEM and other companies, the pulleys are bigger in diameter than the factory. To reduce the amount of work that the accessories have to do. Unless by your pics you're not running a/c, only your alternator, then hey, more power to you. I'd still wanna find a bigger sized pulley, but's that's just me. Less parasitic loss from accessories means more freed up horsepower.

 

What's the weight difference between the two? Pirate is using one in his build too.

 

i didn't weigh them, i never thought to, but i'm pretty sure the S2K one is lighter. but since its all so close to the center its, for all intents and purposes, negligible.

and all i have running is the alternator, and it produces enough power, but blake said that my voltage was dipping a bit at times, but there is no telling how old the alt is, so it could just be the alternator and not the puley. or it could be the pulley.

and i don't think i've looked in pirate's thread in a while, i'll have to check it out

EDIT:
i guess there you go, but it looks like he is spacing his out

 

The smaller diam. of that F20 pulley is gonna make your alt. work harder to charge because it's not spinning as fast as it would with the stock pulley. Think of it like the sprockets of a ten speed bicycle. When you've got the shifter for the pedal assembly set to the largest sprocket(which would coincide with the crank), and the shifter for the rear tire set to the smallest sprocket(coincide with the alt pulley). It goes fast, right? Same principle. The bigger size crank pulley you have, the faster your alt spins which reduces the effort it takes for it to charge your battery, thus prolonging it's life.

 

i understand how gearing works, thanks.

 

Sweet. I figured I'd need a new belt. It's nice to see that there are other people trying new things.

How's the timing cover clear the pulley seeing as it's a quarter inch shorter?

 

i just cut out exactly the size of the new pulley, and it sits recessed inside it, but not so much as the belt is in.

and its nice to know i'm not the only one grabbing random things thinking hey...this could work... :D

 

jlude90: Good info, thanks! Instead of moving the alternator, could you use a belt with fewer ribs and shift it one rib over on the crank and one rib the other way on the alt?


I think you answered your own question.


A smaller pulley on the crankshaft achieves the same thing as bigger pulleys on the accessories (the accessories turn slower for a given engine RPM):

http://www.technologystudent.com/gears1/pulley2.htm

 

For example, if the h22 pulley represents the axial location of the alternator and the f20c pulley is the new location of the crank pulley, it looks like a 5-rib belt (red box) wouldn't be very far off if it were shifted one rib on each pulley:

 

it is a thought that i had, and it might work, but i didn't try it. i wanted to be able to run less belt tension but more friction between the belt and the pulley, so i went with the 6 rib, but i'm sure a cattywampus belt would work but if it wasn't straight it would probably shred pretty quicly, a friend of mine's alt/pulley alignment is a hair off and he shreds belts every couple months

 

Gotta love noobs.


Better go phone ATI or fluidamper and tell them that they should stop making the alt drive on their race dampers smaller than stock.

You're right, AEM under drive pulleys are bigger... But go on the accessory side, buddy.

To the OP: *thumbs up!*

If I didn't already have an undersized alt drive ATI damper, I'd definitely try out the F20C pulley!

 

yeah, this was a much cheaper option, but the ATIs are for sure nice

 

well it wasn't after the crank pulley swap, it was just the first time that had been looked at, so it could have been a prior issue with a bad alt.

 

good luck with that start up buddy

 

its already started, running, and street tuned

 

Get the **** out of my forum.

 

some real asshat must have tuned it.

when are you flying up to NY blake? ive got 260 on the newest engine gonna attempt to Neptune it tomorrow

 

you damn right!

i accept plane tickets

ninja edit:

**** fly me there and pay for my drinks and food and i'll give you my aid.

 

Cleaned up, let's get back on track.

 

any tips on getting the crank pulley off?? sorry this is off topic but im doing a rebuild and cant get the pulley off... used an air wrench at 160 psi, didnt work. tried jumping up and down on my ratchet and just ended up bending my extension... last night i tried dropping the entire weight of the car down onto the wrench to a cinder block and it cracked the block

i duno how the f*ck it got on there this tight, im guessing it hasnt been balanced right for a while, but was hoping someone had a secret i dont know about

 

get a manlier impact

 

Yeah, what he said. A couple of guys at work use 3/4 in impact guns because they have the torque to break our crank pulley bolts loose. I don't know why the hell Honda put them on there that tight. My team leader at work also told me that there is a way to break the bolt loose if you don't have an impact. Put a breaker bar on it and ****** it. Don't try to just pull it. For some reason it won't come loose that way. He told me that a former tech figured that one out. He said to ****** it, not pull on it. I guess it sort of "shocks" the bolt into breaking loose. I dunno. Of course, don't forget to use your special hex shaped tool on the inside of the crank pulley to keep it stationary while trying to do that. With a beefier gun, all you gotta do is zip zip, and it's off.

 

The crank holder tool along with a really long cheap pipe from home-depot works perfectly every time. Make sure you use an impact socket. Cheap and effective.

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648...0973654&sr=8-1