ok well first off, the d15b7 had no plug for the FITV but the d16z6 does so what do i do here..?? also do i just bypass the FITV by connecting a peice of hose to both the nipples underneath it..??

next, do i just completely remove the charcoal canister..??

last but not least, the d15b7's map sensor was firewall mounted and had a knotch on the top that the plug would snap into, the map on the z6 is on the TB and doesnt have that knotch to snap onto but it does however fit kinda snug, is this a problem..??

i've searched and searched and only keep comin back with mini-me writeups, and faulty/broken items, nothin persuasive enough to help me...

 

i have pix if it helps...

 

i just bypassed it and hosed both nipples but u have to have it pluged up or it will throw a few cels...idk what ur talking about with the d15 map post a pic and we can go from there

 

heres the map sensor comparison..


and, by bypassing them do u mean sticking a bolt with a clamp on it into the hose that comes from the head going into the FITV, because thats what i just came across and wasnt sure if i should de-ghetto rig it somehow or just leave it as is...

 

also, what should i do about the charcoal canister..?? remove it and the 3 hoses coming from it completely..??

theres a yellow cap on the piece that the hose from the canister connects to, so im guessin the previous owner bypassed that somehow too... "he was obd2 if that makes any of the ghetto-riggin **** more clear"...

 

ttt

 

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find a clip for the map and re-wire for the new one ...... remove the canister ...run a hose from the bottom nipple to the top nipple of the fitv valve

 

there isnt one on the top of the fitv... theres just 2 open ports parallel to each other on the FITV should i just cut a piece of hose and connect the 2..??

and for the MAP, what exactly do u mean by "find a clip"..?? the plug itself fits on there pretty snug when u connect it, it just doesnt snap on there... but now that i think of it the engine came with a z6 harness so i could probably just cut/splice the map plug from that harness onto my **** "if it matters that much im not sure" but i can tell u that from how secure the plug is right now, its not just gonna fall off it took a lil tension to get it off of there after it was put on so im think i may be alright...

my main concern is just what should i do with the plug on the FITV, because my d15b7 didnt have a plug on the FITV but this z6 does, so even havin the z6 harness i still dunno what to do...

 

ok, got the canister and map issues taken care of... got the car reassembled, now im throwin a CEL 9 for CYP Sensor... I swapped over to my b7 dizzy and the car wouldnt even start, so i threw the z6 dizzy back in, went and got a new cap/rotor, and now the code only comes on randomly; however, the car does start & run... i did an uberhuge search an only came back with about 30 different answers/suggestions so im guessin theres no real solution to this other than spend $100's taking shots at good possibilities..??

Would the fact that im still runnin p06 non-vtec ecu & vtec plugs not even connected have anything to do with it..??

Also, my a/c worked flawlessly before now when i turn it on the clutch spins & stops, spins/stops, spins/stops, in like 3 second intervals and the idle gets wayyyyy shitty an sometimes the car dies..??

 

The stamp on my dizzy is kinda smeared after the TD-4???? but it looks like TD-44..?? Is there a way a b16/gsr dizzy would fit onto my d16z6 head and work but just perform shitty and possibly be the answer for this CEL..??

 

you need to hook up the FITV, that prolly has alot to do with your a/c issues(should have 2 hoses, from the thermostat housing and to the IAVC....use the z6 map plugged in with the original plug from the firewall. the CYP code is either a bad dizzy housing or wiring from there to the ecu (look where the battery tray is they tend to rub on the harness and can hack up the wires). next the z6 motor should have all of the vacuum nipples needed for the charcoal canister, if it doesnt than something is not OEM, im thinking thats not the original throttle body because there is a nipple missing right on top.

 

i wondered that also, because theres not 2 holes on the inside of it an my jdm d15b vtec had 2 holes on the inside "an thats supposed to basically have the same head as the z6" so i wonder where my TB could be from... so the 2 nipples from the bottom, take that screw out of the hose from the block an connect it to one of them, and than connect the other nipples with a piece of hose to the iacv..?? and i just bought a new dizzy cap cuz the other one was cracked, is that what u mean by housing or do u mean internally..?? thanx for ur help, seems like ur the only one here in a helpin mood today lol...

 

i think you can use your original throttle body with no problems..it might be a little bit smaller. and no cap is not the housing...the housing is the metal part with the bearings and the 3 sensors, one of the 3 sensors is prolly bad or its your wiring...you can put your dx dizzy on there but it wont bolt up, you will have to hold it on there while a friend starts the car, you need to keep the no. 1 plug wire pointing in the same direction on the z6 one would be. if you do this and its runniing fine with no codes, then you can try and remove the sensors from your old dizzy and put them in the z6 one....the only thing that might happen is it doesnt work and you have to buy a new one....which is where your at right now, right?

 

yeah i just searched and it seems the b7 an z6 throttle bodies are supposedly the same, however the b7's map is firewall mounted and z6's is mounted on the T/B, i forget where the map hoses connect ima have to check tomorrow to see if this is swappable...

and yeah i put the b7 dizzy on and tried to zip tie it but once u crank the motor it pushes it right off alignment "i didnt have anyone here to help me"... so tomorrow ill see if i can snag someone to lend me a hand... if it is the dizzy, hopefully those sensors are interchangeable...

 

Ya the dx has a fire wall mounted map and the SI/EX are on the throttle body. what harness are you using

 

Also you can use a pair of vise grips to try and hold your dizzy in place. I have seen it done

 

i reused my b7 harness... i have the z6 one too, but its kinda ghettofyed so i just used my stock **** figuring it would be ok.... and if i can swap CYP sensors with no modification im down for that but i dont see any DIY's or writeups... infact i only found 1 thread that actually showed a pic of the sensor..

 

i reused my b7 harness cuz the z6 one was cut & spliced in several locations, does it matter that im usin my b7 harness.?? i dont have a p28 yet so im not even runnin vtec but ive ran vtec motors with nonvtec ecus before and all was good... also, by swappin CYP sensors if thatd solve my issue im down for that, i just need to find a DIY on it... also, is a code 9 100% cyp sensor..? or could other issues trigger that code?? ya kno,like how o2 sensors have their own code but also are known to trigger fuel codes..?? thanx

 

no, if you get a cyp code its wither the wiring or the cyp sensor...there are no write ups because officially they wre not repairable, however i have done it many times, just measure the gap between the sensor and the trigger before you take it off and try and get it to be the same gap when you put the new one on. also there is no internal plug for the sensors so you will have to pull the pins outta the dizzy plug and put them back in. one you open the dizzy you will see 3 black magnetic pickup sensors. these are the things you are after, they are held in with phillips head screws, you might need some needle nose vice grips to get them out, since theyve been in there for more than 10 years. and def. put some loc-tite on them when reassembling. i would change all 3 since you know your old ones are good.

and the firewall map thing has nothing to with what motor it was, its all about the year. 92-93 had firewall ones and 94-95 had t/b mounted ones. it doesnt really matter which one you use as long you use the wiring from the firewall one.

 

know of any instructional sites to guide me with this..?? thanx for ur help also, seems like only 1 or 2 peeps are into the dizzy stuff...

 

no, i just tried it one day. everything i ever found online said theyre not replacable.

 

Sorta. Anything with a D15B7 used a firewall mounted map sensor in '92 - '93. throttle body mounted in '94 - '95. otherwise pretty much all '92 - '95 USDM civics used a throttle body mounted map sensor.

 

yah i tested my map sensor and it came back good, so im guessin everythings fine with that just the way it is...

on the other hand, i opened up the dizzy cap to check out in there, an it seems theres not even a screw holdin the rotor on, nothing looks chewed up in there though so my guess is last time it was replaced the bolt was either A. stripped or B. lost and nothing was ever put back in its place... could this be somewhat of an issue to perhaps cause CYP sensor to go bad..?? i just figure if something were messed up it would show signs inside the cap but everything looks normal...

 

a bolt floating around in the bottom of a dizzy housing with a bunch of manetic sensors could throw all sorts of codes...find the screw and replace it. then go from there.