Hi I was just wondering if it is a bad idea to use the Starter Kill relay to kill your ignition. I already have a starter kill from my alarm, and just bought the DEI hoodlock that comes with another starter kill. Now I was thinking that a manual can just be push started without the starter, so can I connect this to the ignition? Is there a chance that the relay could malfunction and prevent me from driving?

If it is a bad idea, where can I hook it up so no one can push start my car?

Thanks

 

Thanks, I believe this relay is 30 amps, is it good enough for the fuel pump or ecu? Im just wondering because will the relay ever malfunction and result in me not being able to drive without the fuel pump, ecu, etc. Thanks though.

 

But in all fairness....relays ( Bosch P&B...the quality ones) have a very low failure rate. In reality you would probably replace your car before the avg relay failed ( approx 5 years). Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong Teken

chuck

 

Teken is correct as usual...My point was thst if used properly,you would not have to worry about being stranded anywhere. You are doing what you can to keep your pride and joy yours.... You have layered security ( alarm,hoodlock and now a 2nd imobilizer.....you can sleep a little better now.

chuck

 

Do you guys have any recommendations as to combat the ability of manual trannys to be push started? Cuz if you cant really stop that, then my car isnt safe. There is no point in a second starter kill, what should I do? Thanks

 

think of it this way...along these lines....

1. Alarm with starter kill...all entry points protected ( doors,hatch/trunk) shock sensor,light flash,siren for noise
2. hood lock...prevents entry to hood ( where siren and battery lies)..crook cant silence alarm quickly ..this is a good thing...use imobilizer output to:
3. disable fuel pump/ECU...etc. That way even if sleazebag finds alarm and yanks it out....the hood is still locked...with imobilizer engaged so car can't be push started and driven away ( but car can still be towed though).

Make sense now...you want to layer security so your car is not such an easy mark...if you really want to have fun....add a set of air horns to the mix...the more noise the better off your car will be.

hope this helped

chuck

 

yeah I would like to disable the fuel or ecu with the immobilizer from the hoodlock, but im afraid of it failing and leaving me with no way home.

 

Please read above...if properly used and of good quality....the relay should last quite a while...years actually,they have a very low failure rate. Also if you are worried of being stranded...use a normally open type imobilizer system.
(it only works if the hood lock is latched ).

hope this clear things up for you.

 

I was thinking about that, but how do I tell the difference between the relays? I have the P&B one, but im not sure how to tell the difference. Im holding the one where pins 87A and 30 are connected. Nothing is connect to 87, so im guessing when there is a ground provided when the latch is engaged, the switch moves and connects 87 and 30. Please explain and tell me if my reasoning is correct. The diagram has pins 87A and 30 as the starter wires. 86 is the SWITCHED power, and 85 is the ground coming from the hood lock. 87 is free. Im not sure why it has to be a switched power source, and is the black wire from the hoodlock provided a groud when it is engaged? Im in the process of understanding the relays so please bear with me. What I want is exactly what you said where its only engaged when the hoodlock is engaged(from my understanding it provides a ground for the circuit). Please let me know where I am wrong, and how the other relays work. Thanks for everything!

 

Also, im in colorado where the summers are over 100degrees and the winters below 0. What affect does this have on the relay, and what amp relay is needed for the fuel pump or ecu?

 

hmmm....i think i do have the relay where its only on with the hoodlock. cuz on the relay, it has 87A and 30 always connected. so when the hoodlock is engaged, it provides the ground, then when the power goes through for the switch power, it changes teh switch so that 30 and 87A are no longer connected and so u dont have a starter. Is this all correct? I hope im correct, cuz if im not, then my knowledge goes down the *******...hehe

 

the answer is:

86: ignition
30: one side of circuit you are trying to interupt ( fuel pump or ecu )
85: ground output from hoodlock
87a: other side of interupted circuit.
87: empty

What happen is as long as hoodlock is unlocked current will flow thru the circuit you want to interupt...once its latched...its breaks the circuit. Cool huh?

Have fun...oh and what cable length did you get for your car...Im now thinking of doing this to my rex....while mounting a siren behind the turn signal..I uncovered a flaw that could compromise a security system.

Chuck

 

cool thanks for the help, is the 30 amp relay good enough for the fuel pump and ecu, and will it be ok in the winter? I got the 7' cable, thats the longest that DEI makes, its much easier than the 5' one.

 

dont relays usually come with the diode there? sorry for such stupid ?'s, but how do i know?

 

well, mine is the P&B brand and came with the hoodlock from DEI, wouldnt ou think its already there? And when you say facing, does it touch anything? Where does it go?, sorry but im kinda lost

 

thanks for your patience teken. So I physically have to touch the diode to the 2 pins right? may be a little difficult with the harness there. But now youve scared me when you said BOOOOMMM!!!

 

Hmmmm.....now with that being said...would intrupting the coil or ecu be a better idea. Just wondering here.

chuck

 

about to ask that too.

 

personally I have always interupted ign or the coil on my manual cars....no juce no go....works for me IMHO.

chuck