Is it worth it to tun a 96spec JDM ITR motor with just bolt-ons? The bolt-ons consist of,

RMF Narrow Replica Header
T1R Testpipe
T1R full catback system
Comptech icebox/intake

Also, if i plan on getting it tunes, should i even bother with hondata, or just stick with chrome?

 

yes it is i have the same engine with stock headers and a catback, tuned on s300 and it runs great...especially in your case with rmf headers...in my opinion i would

 

YES IT IS! but as far as which program to use, others will chime in concerning hondata and chrome.
Personal i haven't had a problem with my ECtune.

Note**** Just remember to unplug the purge solenoid before you tune on a OBD1 ecu. then plug it in when you need to use your OBD2 ecu. But you may not have to because Jdm b18c may not have it like the usdm b18c5

 

I didn't switch to a test pipe til I went with cams/im.
That is also when I switched to Hondata.
A tune and negate the cel from the 02 sensors was what made me switch. If you have obd1 you don't have to worry about this.

 

Dyno tuning is definitely worth it. My friend gained 20 mid range HP from switching to an s100 from stock ecu. He only has bolt-ons as well.

 

tune it for sure, car will be faster but more important run better

 

I'm not looking for crazy power. I want a flat torque curve. Anyone have dyno graphs of their tune on just bolt-one?

 

On a side note has anyone ever tuned a bone stock ITR w/ Hondata and seen any gains. Always wondered if it not only made more power but also gave a better feel in throttle response and the all over drivability of the car.

 

Every production car can make more power if you tune it. All car manufacture tune their car to make the best power/ emission/ margin of error. because the average joe might just put 87 in their ITR and it wont blow up. They tune it to be reliable, not just power.

Check out the hondata website. They tuned a bone stock ITR.

 

Cool I'll check it out. Thanks.

 

I threw my s200 in to get rid of the ugly *** vafc2.
I/H/E and supposedly some mild cams. Here is one of the runs they sent me, still trying to get the final run.

 

I left mine in my car but only for moitoring. I enjoyed the volt meter and shifited to the rev limit light on the 1320. All the wires for changing any engine tuning I disabled. Maybe it's the little bit of ricer still left in me.

 

so would it be better to tune a type r with a s100, s200 or s300 instead of a vafc??

 

ANY DAY!!!! AFC is just a basic tune, while a hondata/etc have more of a advance to change timing and other needs.

 

Apexi afc- I am guessing lets you tune air/fuel percentage every 100 rpm up to a certain amount of adjustments.
Vafc- lets you adjust when vtec crossover occurs as well as a/f like the afc.

Hondata or Crome...-Let you tune the actual ignition tables/fuel mapping/adjust timing in the ecu, datalogging, + many more.

 

I think the V-AFC is better used as a visual tool, rather than a tuning tool. I do like being able so see my voltage.

 

What make Hondata so much more superior to crome being they adjust the same things? More resolution on Hondata?

 

s300 for example has a usb port for you to plug in a laptop and change the tune on the fly.
-Datalogging
-Launch control with anti-lag
-Full throttle shift
and boost by gear with optional electronic boost controller if turboed.

s200 uses a serial port and has to have a chip burned(just like a re-writable cd, except you need the machine to burn the info into the chip) to update the ecu.
Also doesn't do the boost by gear, but does all the rest I believe.
You can find the hondata s200 used for $200-$300

 

For a stock motor with bolt-ons it does work very well, I used to run a VAFC on my ITR back in the day when I had a stock motor. Picked up 13whp peak and 10-15whp from 4.5-6k by lowering VTEC to 4400. I had a Mugen intake and Hytech header and exhaust as bolt-ons, ended up at 196whp after this session. This was 2 hours of tuning, car was much faster and a whole lot more fun to drive. Definately worth the time and money, I'm sure even better driveabilty and results can be had with Hondata or similar but it will cost a bit more as the tuning will usually take some more time.

 

how much money are we talking about? well does the motor have to be either, boosted or built to have a good tune with the hondata??

 

If good tune means better drivability and smoother powerband then bolt ons are fine.
Tuning around here is $200-$300hr + s300($595)= $800-$1000 roughly.

 

thats not bad at all

 

I'm bumping this 'cause I discovered something.
I went to the dyno yesterday and produced these numbers with Stock ECU and an Apexi Power FC w/ NO tune. Keep in mind, I have absolutely NO boltons, with the exception of some flat faced valves. '96 JDM motor that has been recently rebuilt after 117,XXX kms.


Opinions? Comments?

 

^^^^^^

you made more power with the stock tune???

 

This is my 2000 ITR with Basic Bolt-ons,

SMSP Header
J's racing intake (which was replaced by a SRI and a Velocity Stack)
and Thermal Exhaust

Tuned with Uberdata

This was just Street Tuned also, Just happened to dyno it at a Dynoday event